Practically the best device for checking a fuse is the sight and the tester designed for this. We check the fuse under load. The meter can, in short, turn us into a balloon. A simple sampler from the market for PLN 5-10.
This one was slightly modified for my needs.
We start checking with checking the instrument. Crocodile clip to ground, and the tip to the plus: shines = working.
We start checking our fuses. In this case it is possible to check without pulling out. And remember that if we check the fuse from, for example, parking lights, we have to turn on the lights. Checking yourself is very easy.
The crocodile clip to the ground, and the tip touches the fuse, first on one side, then on the other. When the test lamp is lit here and here, our fuse is working.
Here is an example of a functional fuse - the wire is intact.
And here the same fuse blown.
Another curiosity - in cars you can also find automatic fuses, like home ones - when it pops out, press a button and it works. It looks like.
The one in the picture is "stamped"
And here it is ready to go again.
There are also fuses that need to be pulled out to be checked. We can also check them in a simple way. Here is an example of a circuit breaker.
And one more important thing - the fuse, as the name suggests, is supposed to protect something. This must be the weakest element in the protected circuit. Replacing it with a larger one will end up with burning something, installation, driver, car, etc.
I have a car, so the topic interested me very much. I read and "hung" over the word "lightly".
I carefully announced the first 2 photos and I do not see any modifications in this device. Maybe the author of the topic will enlighten us with his "light" modification of the car test tube known to all. Well, unless the patent is secret.
I know that the majority of society does not sin with intelligence, but it is probably not so bad that you have to explain to someone how to check the fuse. The more that we are on the technical forum.
I did not know, however, that cars have automatic fuses. They are cool when I am in Wolumen, I will look for and buy a few, on the so-called "will be usefull".
I did not know, however, that cars have automatic fuses.
They have been used in commercial vehicles (MAN, for example) a long time ago, useful when looking for short circuits, although I use a slightly different method.
Even a long time ago, only they looked like switches. In city buses. (either Jelcz or Ikarus, I don't know anymore). Something around the '70s.
it is probably not so bad that you need to explain to someone how to check the fuse.
In my opinion, the problem is different. As the author mentioned, the fuse does not "fly out" by itself. Unfortunately, many people think that when it burns out from time to time, you have to give "bigger" - and this is of course the notorious and the biggest mistake.
A simple test tube from the market for 5-10 PLN.
Here, I advise you to be careful with test tubes of this type. From what I remember, all its metal housing is connected to a needle with which we measure the voltage. A moment of inattention and we will stick somewhere on the mass, car bodies, etc. I remember to this day when I used it somewhere in a thicket of wires and suddenly something smoked. From now on, I had to give this entire housing to some thermocouples, but then the problem with replacing the bulb ... I also encountered the problem of car fuses that had slightly thinner "legs" and chased in the socket. Something like that can also cause problems. And these are mainly some cheap sets were ...
More often than blown fuses, I see tarnished fuse / receiver sockets. The test tube won't do anything. The search for the broken mass will also fail. As looking for faults in the installation in the car, it is only a current source.
As the author mentioned, the fuse does not "fly out" by itself. Unfortunately, many people think that when it burns out from time to time, you have to give "bigger" - and this is of course the notorious and the biggest mistake.
Just like the myth that deleting errors (fault codes) will repair the vehicle. As for the installation of oversized fuses, I had a case around 2009 that the 10A fuse from the dipped beam was blown. The driver assumed what could happen, and finally installed a 40A. About hundreds of meters of cables to be replaced in the cockpit (they melted). And the reason was a short circuit in the low / high switch, where the short circuit caused power to both short / long ones from one circuit and therefore 10A burned. I always say that when the fuse blows again, you can, for example, use 15A instead of 10A (by a degree higher). If it also burns down, do not try to find the cause.
I always say that when the fuse blows again, you can, for example, use 15A instead of 10A (by a degree higher). If it also burns down, do not try to find the cause.
I use a different method to search for a short circuit. Instead of a fuse, I connect an H7 bulb. When it shines, it is a short circuit - and I can safely look for what has broken. In this case, there is no need to insert a new fuse every now and then.
In this case, there is no need to insert a new fuse every now and then.
Because after several dozen minutes of searching, there will be a bucket of burnt fuses . It is also a mistake to put new ones on the receivers turned on, it causes sparking and burning out the socket.
I did not know, however, that cars have automatic fuses.
And there are also - mainly in cars from behind the great water - circuit breakers - i.e. circuit breakers - mainly in circuits permanently exposed to overload (e.g. older electric windows). They are bimetallic - a bit like direction breakers - an overloaded fuse disconnects the circuit when it cools down - reconnects. It fits into a standard fuse socket but has a metal housing ...
You can also slightly facilitate / automate the search for some "important" blown fuse in your car using LED adapters. Then the blown fuse is immediately visible, the replacement is easier because there is something to grab for. Such adapters with LED enable signaling of a blown fuse, for example audibly when stationary and while driving. Here is a description of the system: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/viewtopic.php?p=5150294#5150294
It is also worth adding that cheap fuses that can be purchased at gas stations and supermarkets are poorly suitable for use and are even dangerous (dangerous fuse ) The plastic housing can crumble during replacement, in addition, there is a strong sparking that burns the contacts even at low load. I think that the best fuses used in the 90s in VW and BMW cars, such as in the photo in the attachment, and what they produce today is probably especially to damage the installation in the car.
tomybb wrote: Here, I advise you to be careful with test tubes of this type.
Some time ago I bought one in case of W but your attention will be remembered by me. You can actually forget yourself.
Exactly, a very non-intuitive solution. I am used to measuring with probes, e.g. from a meter and there I know that only the protruding pin is in contact with the voltage, and its entire "housing" is isolated ... and here - completely different, I do not know why the manufacturer came up with something like this ...
I also had stands / adapters for fuses in another car behind the great water with a built-in miniature bulb - the fuse goes with smoke - the bulb is on. There are similar solutions today - a fuse with an LED: .
But will such patents work properly in electronic circuits?
I believe that the best fuses were used in the 90s in VW and BMW group cars, such as in the photo in the attachment and what they produce today is probably especially to damage the installation in the car.
I think so too. How about such "genius" inventions.
Anyone remember the fuses (I think) in Moskvich? Textolite plate with brass plates for wire wrapping. A bunch of copper wire in stock. When he burnt, it was wrapped with a new wire and stuck into the socket like today. I think 4 were for the whole car
The mentioned BMW fuses have one major drawback. Their design causes that after many years they corrode at the point where the wire is tightened. With changes in the fuse temperature caused by changes in the ambient temperature or the flowing current, they can sometimes fail despite the fact that the wire is complete. I've had several such cases before. PS The fuse is on or blown? Such a question for administrators and moderators, especially since the author of the topic is Administrator