Print-experiment - repairing a workshop light, replacing a metal component
It's time for another mini project in the series of practical 3D printing - I invite you to report on the design of the replacement for the lamp mounting element in Blender, all step by step, along with a demonstration of the final result. The original element was metal but after two years it broke, can PLA do the job here?
I presented the lamp three years ago in the topic: Large "third hand", magnifier, USB lamp - Newacalox - review
So the damage was done to this joint:
I created the replacement in Blender. I started the adventure with a circle of diameter in line with the diameter of the lamp:
I then prepared myself a block with a length that matched the desired element (circle cutout):
Based on this I cut out this cutout and gave it a thickness:
At this point it was still two-dimensional:
For this reason I then gave it a third dimension:
I made a print for the fitting:
Fits:
Now it's time for the holes. I have created the cylinder so that its origin point is on the symmetry axis of the piece, this in order to later add a mirror image to have the two holes symmetrically:
After adding the "mirror" modifier:
Then I added "boolean" - i.e. we cut a new shape from the previous element:
Then it was time for another cylinder, also with "boolean" - but this time a sum operation:
Fitting:
A few improvements later I still cut the third hole and the shape is tentatively ready:
The third hole is needed because the wires are routed through it.
Printed component:
I printed the piece on a slant to reinforce the structure a little.
Done! Now the only question is how long it will last....
Summary
I waited about a month before writing the topic, during this time I have used the lamp normally and I can already state with a clear conscience that the print has performed well. Nothing has broken yet, and even if it does, I have a second piece in reserve. It costs practically nothing. The piece only weighs 2-3 grams, and considering that I pay about £50 for 1kg of filament it's really pennies, even including electricity and time spent in Blender.
Could it have been fixed any other way? I don't know, you guys can tell me, but in terms of my capabilities the 3D printing solution worked perfectly.
p.kaczmarek2 wrote 14194 posts with
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Comments
PLA, despite appearances, is quite hard and stiff. If it is not heated too much, it can surprise with its toughness. [Read more]
I would suggest a different print layout to reinforce the strength of the component. [Read more]
Exactly, better strength would be horizontal not vertical. Glued layers are not that strong. But nothing is free either in appearance or strength. [Read more]
Well, just how long did it take? [Read more]
All in all you're right about the angled print, although at the same time I'll stress that I didn't print flat. I set it at an angle and the tree supports held it, I just didn't take a photo. @grzegorzmadera... [Read more]
In my case, it would have taken less than a minute to weld up the original component with a migomat. [Read more]
Apparently he tried to solder and something went wrong, apparently it's not ordinary steel so you can't weld it with an electrician. [Read more]
the law of notches applies - why sharp transitions? You could have made a smooth transition between the individual components - then there is no accumulation of stress - the material would not have come... [Read more]
@pkaczmarek2 You print (also described in other topics) specific items useful in life or spare parts for broken devices which I very much support. Not like most printers useless figures downloaded from... [Read more]
Very interesting post @landy13 , if you want you can paste it separately in this section, just write then there a few more words about this program what you used, probably it will interest many more people.... [Read more]
Thanks for the kind word. I was somehow inspired to make up my mind. Well I guess not really. The DYI section is for presenting "your own working designs" . My post doesn't say that. And what's... [Read more]
If you're worried that a tutorial alone without a printout isn't DIY, there's still the 'Articles' section. I assure you that any substantive material will be welcome. You have nothing to fear that it... [Read more]
Writing tutorials or running a course is not something I am likely to undertake. I don't feel competent enough nor do I feel a calling. But I stand by my pledge to help if needed. Depends on what... [Read more]
Do you still have that Ender 3v3 Pro? What do you design in and what slicer do you use? [Read more]
I have this Ender all the time. I'm not complaining, but the fact is that this hobby requires patience, calibrating, tweaking etc takes time. With design I won't advise well, as I use Blender because... [Read more]
For me the biggest pain point is the temperature 'drift' of the table. But that's probably due to supporting it on a single rail, in the middle. Ender's newer, budget design has the table supported on... [Read more]
I have a K1C and I don't see any problems, well it's Creality's flagship, not the Ender series, which I've been advised against by many people if I want to print rather than repair a printer. Generally... [Read more]
The amount of Undo memory can rather be increased. Which Blender are you working in? How much did you buy the K1C for? [Read more]
With large solids there is no problem. I often print solids that are one layer thick (0.2mm) and quite large in span. After a few pieces you have to calibrate the table. [Read more]