Restoring an Oscilloscope Housing: Seeking Moldable Material Similar to Plastic

Hello.

I have an oscilloscope in good technical condition, but with a broken housing (panel). The edges are missing, etc. I would like to fill them with tape (mask for the wall) and complete with some modelable material that will resemble plastic after drying.

There used to be such a sealing glue on the market (poxilina), but it became hard after mixing the ingredients, so modeling and filling the cavities was difficult.

Anyone have any idea how / what to do this?

I do this: I pour a little acetone into the jar, I add crushed pieces of plastic (you can even choose the color) Acetone dissolves most plastics, you can control the density of the resulting "mass" by adding plastic or acetone, the dissolving time depends on the type of material , you have to define it "organoleptically".

ATTENTION ACETONE VAPORS ARE TOXIC !!!!

How long will the mixture remain plastic? Is it drying too quickly?

MES Mariusz wrote:

How long will the mixture remain plastic? Is it drying too quickly?

It all depends on the density and type of plastic, it takes several hours

There are resin-based adhesives on the market.
I have already done this several times - the defect is a different color.
Friend's suggestion. Qbuś seems to be the best solution because you can look for plastic in the right color.

Hello, it's best if you paste a photo of what exactly you want to complete, maybe I will be able to help in some way.

I have a lot of experience with plastics and their gluing (actually welding).

The easiest way is to cut the missing plastic element (you need to choose more or less the color, but also pay attention to the plastic properties of this material)
1) Buy a piece of mesh (steel, brass does not really matter) you can also get a colander if you don't feel sorry!
2) You cut such a piece of mesh to a size a little larger than the defect.
3) with a soldering iron (a short circuit is unlikely to be used) you melt the mesh on the edges of this defect, of course, from the inside of the housing, what to stick to the previously cut plastic

4) when you have already melted the mesh, take a soldering iron in your hand and heat the mesh from the inside, more or less in the middle (where we have this defect in the plastic), at the same time, from the outside, we add the cut plastic and try to melt the mesh into it!

5) when the whole thing is stuck together, from the outside, in the places of joining, we use a soldering iron to melt thin 2-3 mm strips of plastic to make the so-called weld joining both elements

6) the place of repair should be ground with a square (flap disc, grad. 60-80) to evenness

If you really care about a nice end result, read on

7) then, after collecting the excess plastic, as needed, fill with a putty for plastics or modeling putty (depending on who has what at hand), sand by hand until smooth

8) to improve the aesthetics of the repair, you can use spray varnish (so-called structural), unfortunately they are usually only in professional paint shops and usually three colors are black, light, dark gray

I hope that someone will use it greetings

For such purposes, I use Chester Metal molecular glue. Very good adhesion to metal and all kinds of materials.
It is easy to model, the total hardening time is 24 hours. at room temperature.

And it has one more important advantage - no tiscotropic effect.
Brown color, can be colored with various paints.

Dissolving plastic in acetone is a good way. But I used to have access to ethyl acetate, which dissolves plastics sensational, but it is more like acetone.

I agree with the service. I also tried this Chester Metal Super. It is an epoxy resin composite, has good adhesive properties and is chemically resistant. is still Ch.M.Super SL and what is important, it is free binding. Anyway, you can find them on the website:
http://chester-wroclaw.pl/ and choose the most appropriate one (the product descriptions are good), best regards

and has anyone heard of making a mold out of this dissolved plastic in acetone?

There will be a problem with the mold - the material is dissolved and acetone, after pouring into the mold and hardening, will significantly reduce its dimensions. hardening here is the evaporation of acetone. In my opinion, this is not a good method, it is better to pour some resin into this form (polyester, epoxy, etc., remember that the resin heats up during hardening, so you would have to make such a form of something thermally resistant ) or, use the mentioned Chester Metal, and at most then cover it several times with a solution of plastic in acetone or other solvent (nitro, toluene, xylene, all mentioned will be good, while extraction gasoline does not dissolve common materials, so it can be used for an excellent degreasing) of the resin practically no solvent will move.


I do not agree with my colleague Qbuś that acetone dissolves all popular plastics, it does dissolve polystyrene (polystyrene) and it does the best with it, worse with PMMA (polymethyl methacrylate-plexiglass) or PVC, it practically does not dissolve PET (plastic bottles for drinks), but not at all copes with polyethylene, polypropylene and other polylefins, or Teflon (nothing dissolves it ..)

Cheap soldering iron from the bazaar. Grot vaulted with a screwdriver, I melt pieces of plastic and the connected element.
This is the xbox case.

I am closing the excavations.