Ensuring Safe RCD Testing: User Messages & Preventing Short-Circuits

Hello,

after pressing the test button on the residual current circuit breaker, a serious short-circuit occurred (it sparked solidly and you could hear a short-circuit sound like during welding). Since then, the light has not worked for me, and there is no electricity in the kitchen sockets. My questions:

1) how should the fuse be properly tested?
2) what could be the reason for this behavior (could it be too long a button press?)
3) Should they fix it for me under the installation warranty?

Regards and thank you in advance,
Romek

1) The correct testing consists in ... pressing the test button and watching the "click" of the differential
2) The reason lies inside the switch, it's hard to say anything because, to be honest, I met the short circuit during the test for the first time, certainly the time of pressing did not affect it, because the rcd is turned off with the moment you press the button (the delay is imperceptible to you, so let's assume that it is done simultaneously). It is possible that the switch was defective or it was mechanically damaged (e.g. due to a fall).
3) Contact the installation contractor and describe the problem, and so they have to come to diagnose the cause of the trouble, so maybe they will propose a solution that will be satisfactory for you on site.

Or the contractor mixed up something in the installation ... :|

I would not trust the TEST button. There are differences that they throw out during the test, and they do not keep the parameters.
I myself saw one that worked after pressing the test, and when measured with the device, it had an infinite switch-off time, and the differential current was 50 times nominal ...

Madrik wrote:

I would not trust the TEST button. There are differences that they throw out during the test, and they do not keep the parameters.
I myself saw one that worked after pressing the test, and when measured with the device, it had an infinite switch-off time, and the differential current was 50 times nominal ...

Buddy Madrik:
As far as I know, each manufacturer orders to perform a test by pressing the test button at least once a month

when it comes to testing the differential, it all depends on the conditions in which it works (e.g. construction site, apartment)

I mean the frequency of testing the differential

jola133 wrote:

Madrik wrote:

I would not trust the TEST button. There are differences that they throw out during the test, and they do not keep the parameters.
I myself saw one that worked after pressing the test, and when measured with the device, it had an infinite switch-off time, and the differential current was 50 times nominal ...

Buddy Madrik:
As far as I know, each manufacturer orders to perform a test by pressing the test button at least once a month

And the results of this is? Manufacturers recommend various things that do not necessarily make sense from the customer's point of view. The car operating instructions recommend that you check the operation of the lights before each journey. Will this keep you from burning out the bulb? And I bet you don't do this every time you get in your car.
In fact, the "test" button on the differential is just a psychological conscience calmer. Differentials are one of those devices that only work when things are really bad. Anyway, the client can press and whimper with joy as he snaps. But what is the obstacle to designing the button so that it will ALWAYS turn the switch off? Among other things, this is why the effectiveness of anti-shock protection is measured, not to rely on deceptive faith, but to know the real value of the security.

The test button is used to check only the internal switch-off circuit, which consists in the fact that it short-circuits the phase through a resistor (a value such that a current of about 30 mA flows) to the neutral wire. The test determines the efficiency of the differential itself. Apparently, in this case, the differential was damaged, the sound of welding indicates that the wire inside was burnt or the test was performed during operation of the devices and an arc was formed during the shutdown, which could damage the contacts, I suggest replacing the differential. Pressing the test button should not cause the symptoms described above, regardless of how it was connected. Each contractor gives a guarantee for the work performed in this case, he should repair it under the guarantee. If he issued one in writing.