Testing Bosch SRS53A12EU Dishwasher Aquastop Functionality - No Water Flow Issue

Hello,

The problem occurred in the Bosch SRS53A12EU dishwasher, which stopped taking water. Everything indicates that the aquastop (type 902) is damaged.
Should direct voltage to it cause the valve to open? After performing the above-mentioned activities, you can only hear humming, unfortunately the water does not flow.

How can I check if the aquastop is working?


Thank you in advance,

On top of the dishwasher - access from the right side? - check - after removing the side, you will find a styrofoam float and a micro switch above the floor of this dishwasher - check if the contacts cooperating with the wiring are closed - if there is no water under the float - if there is, remove it - and just check.
If it is many years old - this dishwasher - perhaps the valve on the supply line at the tap (where the box is - usually light gray) needs to be replaced.
You will replace with a single solenoid valve plus a 3/4-3/4-braided female-female hose or a 3/4-ball valve - also a female-female, depending on the location.

Thank you

The dishwasher is 5 years old. According to the issues discussed in the Forum:
I cleaned the entire water jacket, aqua stop system, water filters on the tap and hose, there was no water at the bottom of the housing.
After performing even these activities, the water does not reach the water jacket.

I wanted to check the aqua stop system on the hose by giving an external 230V voltage (omitting the dishwasher systems) I can hear that the solenoid valve is working or is it correct??? - the water does not flow.
I think the other one is damaged or clogged? aqua stop module (hydrostatic?)

Kind regards

The valve is probably double, probably one of the coils is damaged and therefore does not take water. If the dishwasher has an electronic control module, check if the triac controlling the valve and the triac switching transistor have not been damaged.
In the best case, you have to replace the valve.

Hello.
If you gave 230V to the valve and the water does not flow, check before the valve if the water flows. Possibly a strainer on this hose where you gave the voltage to the valve.

Thanks!
I attach a photo of this "suspicious" element (replaceable element).
I would like to be sure that it is definitely damaged and needs to be replaced.
This is probably the root cause of the fault.
Regards

Hello,

After replacing the aquastop, it turned out that the programmer was also defective, after initial inspection, it turned out that the integrated circuit: ACS 3025T was damaged. Does anyone know where to buy such a setup? Or if anyone has it, how much would they be willing to sell it for.

crazy_phisic wrote:

[...] check if the triac controlling the valve and the triac switching transistor have not been damaged.[...]

Hello,
I'm going to get a little off topic. I have the same dishwasher and the keying transistor fell for my taste. So here's my question; what transistor should be there, I mean the type, i.e. bipolar or mosfet, and possibly with what parameters?

Well, the problem was solved, although not alone. It turned out that the ACS302-5T system, which contains three triacs, was broken. It was blackened on one side and the bottom. In addition, there is one more triac in the dishwasher controller.
Each of the triacs is controlled by a key from an npn transistor. It seems that they are transistors with a built-in resistor on the base and between the base and the emitter (something like PDTC114ET, e.g. in the Seguro store).
Instead of this system, I used three 2N6075B triacs in a TO-225 housing with a high-sensitivity gate, and I replaced the fourth triac prophylactically. I screwed all four triacs to the plastic cassette in which the controller is located. And the whole repair cost about 10 zlotys, everything went beautifully to the delight of me and my mother-in-law ;)

Regards