As this is my first post on the forum, I would like to say hello to the esteemed group of specialists. So far, the knowledge contained in the forum was enough to solve the problems I encountered, but the day has come when I cannot find enough knowledge on the forum.
I would like to point out that on a daily basis he deals with the service of telephones, laptops and computers
So yes: the patient is a dishwasher Bosch SRV45T63EU/01 it has been at my house for about 7 years, during these years of use regularly it gains value. Yes, it's not a mistake! the dishwasher breaks down in the same way every time exactly after the 2-year warranty expires, its problem is the programmer ( the board is AKO 709004 while the model of the programmer is AKO 718778-02 ) in which, as can be seen from the observations, the resistors burn out (it is always the same 222) in addition, some other element is probably damaged, but it is hard to tell in the system connected at the layered board. As I said, the same thing always happens, so the dishwasher turns on and allows you to choose the washing program, after closing you can hear the pump that wants to pump out the water that is not there and there is a long wait of about 3 minutes (here the dishwasher should open the solenoid valve and let water in) and then it starts again the pump starts and everything loops like this because of the lack of water. I would like to warn you right away that, as after any failure of the programmer so far, the solenoid valve is checked directly under the voltage of AC 230V and each time it turns out that the valve works properly I will add that there is currently a small problem related to the beam, most likely. After turning on the power via the main power button, the dishwasher did not start, the first thing that came to my mind was moving the beam thanks to which the dishwasher turned on, but after several attempts I still cannot tell which wire is responsible. Moving on to the merits of the case Would anyone like to share the scheme of the programmer and its service pads, or what where I can measure and what should be the values.
The equipment itself washes dishes well, the programmer is quite expensive, and the services that initially undertake to repair it change their minds and claim that the module needs to be replaced (of course I understand it, I often replace modules myself instead of playing with a trifle). As the dishwasher is twice as expensive to me as it was at the time of purchase, I would like to resurrect it to make it last a bit longer.
I am posting photos of the damaged board and also with the resistor replaced with "threaded" due to its higher power, but it did not solve the problem. Tips from someone who has already gone through this problem are welcome. I tried to describe my problem as best as possible.
At the very beginning, I suggest checking the wires that are plugged into the connector at the damaged resistor. This model has a dishwasher program indicator, it may have been flooded. The indicator light is inside the door, check the plug and condition of the wires.
Each time the new module restored the correct operation of the dishwasher, but I will actually check the condition of the wires at the connector from the burnt resistor at the end of the week.
When you talk about the dishwasher program indicator, do you mean the diode that signals the dishwasher's operation? It works properly and there is no option for it to be flooded because it is located on the front of the door, in addition, I checked the bundle visually and it does not show any signs of abrasions or interruptions, so the phenomenon after moving the wires is inexplicable to me, just like the wires in the power connectors are well embedded and there is no option for anything not to connect there. The plug is like new.
Regarding the test points, I have a problem with measuring different values on each controller at the moment, each of them has, but it seems quite strange to me that these values do not match, which is why I asked for some diagrams/documents.
Salt sensor line pull-up. The contacts of the sensor short this line to ground, if there is a break in the beam, instead of ground, 230V may go to this line, which will burn the above-mentioned resistor, plus I suspect some further damage to the system. So if you're checking a bundle, it's the whole thing.
@Loker thank you for your reply, I will check the circuit again carefully then. Do you think there is a possibility that something like this happened from lack of salt?
The module itself works, I can choose the program, I close the dishwasher and if I pour too much water, it will pump it out, unfortunately, because it is unable to open the solenoid valve, it cannot go to the next part of the program. Is it possible the relay went out? Do you know who is responsible for the solenoid valve? I will only add that they all have a resistance of 100? on the coil side
No salt has anything to do with it - possibly a broken/non-contacting wire in the harness. There are several valves in this dishwasher - they are all controlled by triacs. The triacs in the photos look fine.
Does anyone have another photo of the above-mentioned programmer board? I mean a photo or comparative information, and more specifically, the color of the green resistor (the big one next to the electromagnetic relay). For me it's burnt and I'm not sure about 3 lines: 1-brown, 2-black, 3-black or dark gray, 4-gold. Dimensions 13x4.5mm.
I am asking for help in choosing (maybe someone has a diagram and will tell).
The value of this resistor is not critical, you can give brown, black, brown, gold or something close to it. Resistor power 2W. However, you must take into account that this will not be the only fault to be removed, unless you do not write everything and you made a short circuit in its vicinity
baby thanks for the info, as for the power, I wasn't sure if it was 1W or 2W. The rest of the elements seem to be OK, but if there is anything more, it will come out in the wash I didn't do the short circuit myself, the beam will remain to pass, if there are any abrasions, cracks. I had concerns about the relay, but the measured one seems to be working. On the other hand, the resistor has worked for 6-7 years and could simply overheat (I think). TONI_2003 Is it a crop from the photo above or from another board?
Is it a crop from the photo above or from another board?
Why do you ask if you still have a problem so trivial that I'm afraid to ask what's on your mind? Since your resistor is bad, the question is whether the same applies to LNK304GN? This is how someone joins an unrelated topic and there is no PCB photo of him ...
Of course, 100? and 1.01k? is a difference, but: 1. Where do you see the 1.01k? resistor (it would have to be from the E192 series, i.e. 0.5% of the value tolerance). 2. The resistor with brown-black-brown stripes is 100? even if the resistor overheats (as you can see in the pictures) the stripes changed colors.
As for the mosfet, it looks OK
You mean LNK304GN? Well, I don't know, the photo is not very clear, but look at the system in the place marked with a yellow circle, if there is no crack in the housing and the flow of plastic.
You mean LNK304GN? I don't know, the picture isn't very clear
Photo from the phone sent via mms to the mail, so the quality flew. As for this spot, it looked like a drop of rosin, I wiped it and there is no trace. As for cracks and leaks from the LNK304GH - none. Tomorrow I will go buy a resistor and solder it, maybe the board will come to life So far thanks for your help. Regards
So it is to be exchanged just like both with a friend alekt77 we have said before Also remember for the future that a resistor (green) made in this way always has a brown stripe (read its paint) burns out, turns black and looks almost the same as a black stripe, and what counts is the number of stripes and there are programs that allow less experienced to avoid mistakes Learn to listen to more experienced repairers, and it will be easier for you...
Replaced - circuit board and resistor, repaired, tomorrow a review of the heater, harness, etc. - mother-in-law is happy that she won't have to wash dishes
Therefore, it is to be replaced, as both alekt77 and I have said before
I repent and promise to improve.
Also remember for the future that a resistor made in this way (green) always has a brown stripe (read its paint) burns out, discolors
I don't have much experience, but I've always liked "picking". Unfortunately, instead of going to polybuda to study computer science, I don't know why I chose construction (I graduated from high school with a math-physics-info profile) Many thanks for your help
Thanks for the quick reply and once again I quickly read the whole topic again, but for me it looked a little different because the dishwasher stopped working while washing the dishes and nothing is displayed on the programmer. I checked the switch and it is ok, I undressed the module and noticed a burnt resistor, wanting to find what it should be, I came across this topic. Anything else I should check?? Regards
Thanks a lot, I read and checked the diode on the board and it looks good, but I will desolder it at home and check it again to be sure, and there is 4.2 between these two pins K? but the meter is of average quality. So it looks like everything is ok. Regards