Straightening a Haupa Perlon Pilot for Cable Threading in Conduits

Pulling the cables into the "conduit" type casing pipes.

First. To facilitate the introduction of the pilot, it is worth lubricating the inlet of the pipe with e.g. thick dishwashing liquid. Talc is good too, but there is no such lubrication. The introduced cable should also be well lubricated.

Secondly. The pipe must be well stretched, but not stretched in such a way that the 10 meter pipe is stretched to 15 meters and, for example, the orange one turns white.

Thirdly. The bend of the pipe should be 90 * - it looks nice, but these 90 degrees should be made so that the arc runs smoothly. It is best to take a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and put a conduit along its edge.

And after the last 4. Heavy duty wire pullers are not suitable for insertion into a conduit. Carbon fiber remotes are the most suitable.

For example, a 20-meter section of a carbon fiber pilot with earpieces for mounting guide balls, hook eyelets or "stockings" made of steel rope - costs about PLN 700 from the Wurth company.

All In One wrote:

The introduced cable should also be well lubricated.

Lubrication are generally
- blue, aqueous silica colloid, as it dries halfway through the drag, it is crying and teeth grinding.
- yellow, waxy. I always prefer them, if only because the skin on my hands does not dye blue.
I do not recommend washing or bathing liquids, if only because of the pH.
..Fifth, buy a conduit, if you really have nothing to do with your free time at the construction site ..

15kVmaciej wrote:

...
..Fifth, buy a conduit, if you really have nothing to do with your free time at the construction site ..

Unfortunately, in my company, 90% of the wires are placed on the floor, on which 10-15 cm of the spout comes:



PS And for lubrication we use something like this:


It is green, does not dry out and the bottle is enough for 200 meters of pipe.

I bring the conduits to the junction boxes only where the wires are to be replaced. For example: Coaxial cables, twisted pair cables, telephone wires. No more is needed.

The presented photos come from one construction site. I still have 6 houses in a similar condition, plaster is to be done next week. I will try to get a "photo report of opening cans after plastering".

BTW. The pipes are now waiting for 2 layers of polystyrene. One layer at the level of the pipes, the other is to cover everything. Pipes for underfloor heating and concrete will be placed on the polystyrene. In total, an 11 cm layer of heated floor will reach the present level of the pipes.

Metal straps ... These straps are for that. As for their rusting - no chance they are galvanized and poured with concrete. Nothing will "come out".
I use special (maybe not too special) pipes with exchangeable cables ) handles. Similar to pipe clip halves. So that the pipes are not bent when nailed.
Yes, the tapes are hand nailed (with a 1 kg hammer) with steel pins to the concrete. Unfortunately, the stud pistol is a bit too expensive.

PS By laying pipes on the floor, I am able to wire the entire house within 2 days.
Cutting furrows in the walls of the same size house would take about 5 days. Medium house - ground floor and attic, without a basement - about 110 sq m.
What are the furrows? ONLY ON THESE WALLS !!! 2-3 millimeters of plaster!

My guess is that you pull the wires in first, and only then arrange and fix the whole thing on the floor. If you have the illusion that in all sections you will be able to replace the cable after pouring the concrete, then first put the conduit so nicely and then pull something into it. You cannot overcome three right angles, even if you push a kilogram of grease.
You might as well put the wires on the floor and put these two layers of polystyrene on.
But nevertheless you found something better to lubricate than washing up liquid ..

The remote control I wrote about earlier goes even without lubricant.
We use the gray conduit for TV, internet and telephone - it has a wire inside. Unfortunately, this construction site was a bit lacking and there is a red one.
As for the spread, the dishwashing liquid is half seriously. However, in the past I used to pull some different cables into slightly different pipes - YAKY into Arota pipes.
But yes, the wires in these pipes are already there.

What do you want to use the wire for?

Mazidło - sorry for the link to the auction, but here is for example:
http://www.ebay.de/sch/Elektronik-Elektrotechnik-/65483/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=gleitmittel

Due to the fact that the link does not concern the main topic, I leave it there. [retrofood]

bulbulatrix wrote:

conduits only for convertible ones and we are talking about them right now!

I understand that colleagues in their lives have already exchanged a lot of such circuits ..: popcorn:

I have no problems with pulling wires in pipes.
Today I even pulled in a few more than twenty meters long episodes. Alone - without a helper.
I try not to make right angles with a sharp point - a gentle curve, you know nature can come out.

Exchange? Not a problem either. necessary condition: 1 conduit - 1 pipe.
I use a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.

I almost forgot. Why are the other cables not lying directly on the floor - nothing will happen to him.
Before concrete is poured over the lines, the lines remain exposed for a long time. Builders would tread new unused cables to death.

I propose to settle for the fact that it is exemplary aesthetics. Worthy of a photo, before the conduit is trampled and poured over with concrete for ever and ever.

All In One wrote:

Exchange? No problem either. necessary condition: 1 conduit - 1 pipe.
I use a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.

My friend, for a few years I have been carrying out installations with cable wires, pulled into steel pipes previously installed. On the islands it is a daily bread, there are even tables binding the number of cables, their cross-section, pipe diameter, number of angles (bends), maximum distance to the revision point.
These conduits are like sand cakes to me. Very nice sand cakes.