Hello, My laptop power supply is burnt, the original power supply from the set - the original one has such a data plate as I have a different power supply at home - a replacement from another laptop that has a data plate only such a sticker . Does this power supply replacement correspond to the...

The current consumption of the original power supply was 4.75A and the one you want to use as a replacement is only 3A. So you can't.

Minimum 4.75A, if there is more, nothing will happen.

Check with an ohmmeter. The housings of the USB, RS232, LPT, VGA sockets should be on -, so check if there is a transition between them and any of the pins on the power socket. edit: mat_ed was faster ... And as for the current: I would let go of this 0.01A difference

Check on the spot - no one will forbid you. And 0.01A is, if I'm not mistaken, 0.2% of the current value. Such a difference must not in any way affect the operation of the system. Average tolerances are +/- 5%.

Everyone about electricity and no one about tension ... The original had - if I can see correctly - 20V, and the replacement must have the same amount. You should not be refused an on-the-spot check by the seller, you have the right to do so. On the other hand, the return of an efficient and not suitable one is only the goodwill of the seller, there is no such obligation.

Not 18-24V but only 20V, the original has 20V marked on the sticker. If I can see correctly.

Maybe lift the diamond of secrecy and write what kind of laptop it is. From what I can see from this power supply, it is probably a replacement for some previous one. There should be a plate on the bottom of the laptop and everything should be on it: voltage, current, and sometimes even polarity. This power supply you have max4.74A but at the lowest voltage, i.e. 18v. You have written like a bull that the max power supply is 90watt, so with the 20v marked on the plate it will have 4.5A.

You have it written like a bull: Normal: DC-Output 20 V, 4.5 A, 90 W and look for such a minimum. The voltage must be 20 V and it shouldn't be different. The amperage should be a minimum of 4.5 and you are looking for 4.5 or more to have a reserve. PS-how do you know that your power supply is burnt? Didn't the cable break by accident? Many think that the power supply is hot and it is enough to replace the cable and that's it.

If there will be 19V or 22V, then nothing will happen, these 4.5A are already given with some margin, moreover, if you have a mobile processor, 3.25A is enough. If you have a power supply that fits the pin, you may have a problem if you want to work with 100% use of the CPU with full brightness of the matrix and a completely discharged battery ... As for the above - the most common right is the wire near the plug, or at the power supply housing.

Hmm ... so 1.75A is missing. So now when I buy a replacement, it must be 4.75A ?.

mat_ed , Thank you for your response. Tomorrow after looking for such a replacement for the power supply that it has a minimum of 4.75A. If I don't know something, I will ask on the Forum.

Also pay close attention to the voltage polarity.

jankolo right, good that you wrote. Such polarization, which is e.g. on the replacement on this sticker, is it correct or should it be different?

It is not known, because I cannot find the polarization pattern on the original.

The fact is that this diagram is not on the original and it is not known what it is - can you check it somehow? On the other hand, if there is a replacement for this model, it should be OK.

From what I was looking at ON LINE, most of the power supplies are 4.74A - that's not enough. As it is already 4.75A, I admit that such a replacement costs quite a lot.

0.01A may be important, it may not be - it is difficult to say 100%. For now, I have looked ON LINE, tomorrow I will see at home in the city if they have something on hand and at what price at all. This may not be a typical question - is there a possibility, can I suggest how to buy a power adapter in my place of residence, that if the laptop does not work on it, I will give it back or take a laptop with me and on the spot to connect the power adapter and see if the laptop works? Or is it rather the laws of trading that do not allow you to buy at your own risk?

OK, if there is something for me, just in case I will take my laptop with me and check on the spot if it works for a replacement. So it must have 18 - 24V or more specifically 20V and 4.74 or more A.

When looking live at the data plate on the power supply, only the 20V position is in fact marked. And at the top it says 18 - 24V.

Can I use a different power supply as a replacement for the original?

asziatko 33040 34

Best answers

Can I replace a burnt laptop power supply with a different adapter that has a lower current rating?

No — a 3A adapter is too weak; use a power supply with the same 20V output and at least the laptop’s required current, while a higher current rating is fine [#6284984][#6285025][#6288871] The voltage should match, and the polarity must also be correct; if it is not marked clearly, check it with an ohmmeter/meter [#6285031][#6286738] For this laptop, the forum points to 20V and at least 4.5A/4.75A depending on the exact model, so 4.75A or more is the safe choice [#6287939][#6288871]

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#1 6284968 15 Mar 2009 15:13

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #1
6284968 15 Mar 2009 15:13

Hello,

My laptop power supply is burnt, the original power supply from the set - the original one has such a data plate as

I have a different power supply at home - a replacement from another laptop that has a data plate only such a sticker

. Does this power supply replacement correspond to the original ?. Can I connect a replacement power supply to this laptop that was the original (which burned) without fear that the laptop will be damaged ?.

Regards,
Arthur
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#2 6284984 15 Mar 2009 15:17

jankolo jankolo

Rest in Peace

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Post #2
6284984 15 Mar 2009 15:17

The current consumption of the original power supply was 4.75A and the one you want to use as a replacement is only 3A. So you can't.
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#3 6285006 15 Mar 2009 15:23

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #3
6285006 15 Mar 2009 15:23

Hmm ... so 1.75A is missing. So now when I buy a replacement, it must be 4.75A ?.
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#4 6285025 15 Mar 2009 15:27

mat_ed mat_ed

Level 43

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Post #4
6285025 15 Mar 2009 15:27

Minimum 4.75A, if there is more, nothing will happen.
#5 6285030 15 Mar 2009 15:29

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #5
6285030 15 Mar 2009 15:29

mat_ed , Thank you for your response. Tomorrow after looking for such a replacement for the power supply that it has a minimum of 4.75A. If I don't know something, I will ask on the Forum.
#6 6285031 15 Mar 2009 15:29

jankolo jankolo

Rest in Peace

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Post #6
6285031 15 Mar 2009 15:29

Also pay close attention to the voltage polarity.
#7 6285041 15 Mar 2009 15:31

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #7
6285041 15 Mar 2009 15:31

jankolo right, good that you wrote. Such polarization, which is e.g. on the replacement on this sticker, is it correct or should it be different?
#8 6285486 15 Mar 2009 17:15

gilus1 gilus1

Level 29

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Post #8
6285486 15 Mar 2009 17:15

It is not known, because I cannot find the polarization pattern on the original.
#9 6286657 15 Mar 2009 20:47

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #9
6286657 15 Mar 2009 20:47

The fact is that this diagram is not on the original and it is not known what it is - can you check it somehow?

On the other hand, if there is a replacement for this model, it should be OK.
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#10 6286718 15 Mar 2009 20:57

mat_ed mat_ed

Level 43

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Post #10
6286718 15 Mar 2009 20:57

Quote:
... can you check it somehow ?.

Using a gauge.
#11 6286725 15 Mar 2009 20:58

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #11
6286725 15 Mar 2009 20:58

From what I was looking at ON LINE, most of the power supplies are 4.74A - that's not enough. As it is already 4.75A, I admit that such a replacement costs quite a lot.
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#12 6286738 15 Mar 2009 21:01

S_Goryl S_Goryl

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Post #12
6286738 15 Mar 2009 21:01

Check with an ohmmeter. The housings of the USB, RS232, LPT, VGA sockets should be on "-", so check if there is a transition between them and any of the pins on the power socket.
edit:
mat_ed was faster ...
And as for the current: I would let go of this 0.01A difference
#13 6286790 15 Mar 2009 21:09

asziatko asziatko

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Post #13
6286790 15 Mar 2009 21:09

0.01A may be important, it may not be - it is difficult to say 100%. For now, I have looked ON LINE, tomorrow I will see at home in the city if they have something on hand and at what price at all.

This may not be a typical question - is there a possibility, can I suggest how to buy a power adapter in my place of residence, that if the laptop does not work on it, I will give it back or take a laptop with me and on the spot to connect the power adapter and see if the laptop works? Or is it rather the laws of trading that do not allow you to buy at your own risk?
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#14 6286825 15 Mar 2009 21:13

S_Goryl S_Goryl

Level 13

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Post #14
6286825 15 Mar 2009 21:13

Check on the spot - no one will forbid you. And 0.01A is, if I'm not mistaken, 0.2% of the current value. Such a difference must not in any way affect the operation of the system. Average tolerances are +/- 5%.
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#15 6286871 15 Mar 2009 21:20

cyruss cyruss

Level 31

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Post #15
6286871 15 Mar 2009 21:20

Everyone about electricity and no one about tension ...
The original had - if I can see correctly - 20V, and the replacement must have the same amount.

You should not be refused an on-the-spot check by the seller, you have the right to do so. On the other hand, the return of an efficient and not suitable one is only the goodwill of the seller, there is no such obligation.
#16 6286872 15 Mar 2009 21:23

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #16
6286872 15 Mar 2009 21:23

OK, if there is something for me, just in case I will take my laptop with me and check on the spot if it works for a replacement.

So it must have 18 - 24V or more specifically 20V and 4.74 or more A.
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#17 6286905 15 Mar 2009 21:26

cyruss cyruss

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Post #17
6286905 15 Mar 2009 21:26

Not 18-24V but only 20V, the original has "20V" marked on the sticker. If I can see correctly.
#18 6286921 15 Mar 2009 21:29

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #18
6286921 15 Mar 2009 21:29

When looking "live" at the data plate on the power supply, only the 20V position is in fact marked. And at the top it says 18 - 24V.
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#19 6287939 16 Mar 2009 07:06

jurek1980 jurek1980

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Post #19
6287939 16 Mar 2009 07:06

Maybe lift the diamond of secrecy and write what kind of laptop it is. From what I can see from this power supply, it is probably a replacement for some previous one. There should be a plate on the bottom of the laptop and everything should be on it: voltage, current, and sometimes even polarity. This power supply you have max4.74A but at the lowest voltage, i.e. 18v. You have written like a bull that the max power supply is 90watt, so with the 20v marked on the plate it will have 4.5A.
#20 6288147 16 Mar 2009 09:06

asziatko asziatko

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Post #20
6288147 16 Mar 2009 09:06

The laptop is a California Access model CA 6900. A bit older model. The power supply is like that from the news with this one I bought it with. It was bought in a store not at an auction or from another person.

I found the PL instruction on the Electrode Pl for this laptop and there is also nothing about polarity, only this

Quote:
Mobile or desktop processor
The design of the computer enables the use of both processors
mobile and ordinary. To determine whether in a given model
a mobile or regular processor is used, just check the power
DC rating on the bottom of the power supply:
? Mobile: DC-Output 20V, 3.25A, 65W
? Plain: DC-Output 20 V, 4.5 A, 90 W

and

Quote:
Power
Model with a processor for a desktop computer
? Full-range AC adapter
Input: 100-240V, 47 ~ 63Hz
Output: 20V, 4.5A, 90W
? Supports lithium-ion smart battery
Notebook processor model
? Full-range AC adapter
Input: 100-240V, 47 ~ 63Hz
Output: 20V, 3.25A, 65W
? Supports lithium-ion smart battery
Pointers
? LED indicators (hard drive, power status, floppy drive, Num Lock mode,
Caps Lock Mode, Scroll Lock Mode, Power Adapter, Battery Icon)
Work environment
? Temperature
? Operating: 5 ° C ~ 35 ° C Operating relative humidity: 20% ~ 80%
? During shutdown: -20 ° C ~ 60 ° C During shutdown: 10% ~ 90%

There is nothing about polarity on the back of the laptop either. So now you have to look for a 4.5A or 4.75A and 20V power supply?
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#21 6288871 16 Mar 2009 13:36

skaktus skaktus

Level 37

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Post #21
6288871 16 Mar 2009 13:36

You have it written like a bull: Normal: DC-Output 20 V, 4.5 A, 90 W and look for such a minimum.

The voltage must be 20 V and it shouldn't be different. The amperage should be a minimum of 4.5 and you are looking for 4.5 or more to have a reserve.

PS-how do you know that your power supply is burnt? Didn't the cable break by accident? Many think that the power supply is hot and it is enough to replace the cable and that's it.
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#22 6288935 16 Mar 2009 13:55

tzok tzok

VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl

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Post #22
6288935 16 Mar 2009 13:55

If there will be 19V or 22V, then nothing will happen, these 4.5A are already given with some margin, moreover, if you have a mobile processor, 3.25A is enough. If you have a power supply that fits the pin, you may have a problem if you want to work with 100% use of the CPU with full brightness of the matrix and a completely discharged battery ...

As for the above - the most common right is the wire near the plug, or at the power supply housing.
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#23 6289676 16 Mar 2009 17:00

skaktus skaktus

Level 37

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Post #23
6289676 16 Mar 2009 17:00

From my experience, I know from CA that they don't like changes in tensions. A colleague connected 22 V instead of 20 and it ended up not charging ... permanently.
#24 6289704 16 Mar 2009 17:08

asziatko asziatko

Level 21

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Post #24
6289704 16 Mar 2009 17:08

Today I found in only one shop in my city a replacement power supply for this original, typical as the original 20V and 4.75A for PLN 115, you have to admit a lot.

It is a set with a number of tips (probably 10 different tips), a cable for 230V, a power supply and a cable with a cigarette lighter tip. 2-year warranty, PL production.

I did not buy it, maybe I can get something cheaper, somewhere like PLN 115.

You say so cactus that CA that they do not like changes in tensions ?. So it has to be typical like the original 20V and 4.75A?
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#25 6289764 16 Mar 2009 17:19

skaktus skaktus

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Post #25
6289764 16 Mar 2009 17:19

asziatko - why haven't you looked on the internet? On the Allegro at auction number: 573858662 you have power supplies for della 20V 4.5A for PLN 30. Just swap the cable and it works.

On another auction, No. 579849063, you have 20V and a 6A for CA ...

It was enough to search
#26 6289808 16 Mar 2009 17:26

asziatko asziatko

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Post #26
6289808 16 Mar 2009 17:26

cactus thanks for the listing numbers. I admit that if I would buy it, it is something cheaper but with a guarantee and not to be modified. Even after looking on the Internet, maybe there will be something in the ON LINE stores.
#27 6289861 16 Mar 2009 17:36

tzok tzok

VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl

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Post #27
6289861 16 Mar 2009 17:36

skaktus wrote:
From my experience, I know from CA that they don't like changes in tensions. A colleague connected 22 V instead of 20 and it ended up not charging ... permanently.
Rather a coincidence, because especially these Chinese replacements do not have good stabilization ... this voltage goes to the DC-DC converter inside the laptop anyway.
#28 6290112 16 Mar 2009 18:26

dzg4 dzg4

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Post #28
6290112 16 Mar 2009 18:26

The polarity is marked in the photo + is inside a - outside and do not take Chinese because they fall like flies. If you can take 18-19V 6A letterhead as the previous speakers suggest.
#29 6290121 16 Mar 2009 18:27

skaktus skaktus

Level 37

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Post #29
6290121 16 Mar 2009 18:27

asziatko wrote:
cactus thanks for the listing numbers. I admit that if I would buy it, it is something cheaper but with a guarantee and not to be modified. Even after looking on the Internet, maybe there will be something in the ON LINE stores.

The problem is that such power supplies in online stores are much more expensive and the same as on the Internet.

Here you have a new one for PLN 69 and it gives you a lot more than you need: 579 711 123

Make an effort and search the internet on the allegro - it's full of it.

Quote:
Rather a coincidence, because especially these Chinese replacements do not have good stabilization ... this voltage goes to the DC-DC converter inside the laptop anyway.

It is possible, but I also do not see the point of working the inverter in a laptop at a higher speed, because they often work practically at maximum speed.
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#30 6290155 16 Mar 2009 18:32

dzg4 dzg4

Level 31

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Post #30
6290155 16 Mar 2009 18:32

You will be lucky if a Chinese burns without causing a laptop failure, it is better to spend up to 150 PLN than to buy a new laptop. From your own practice.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the compatibility of a replacement power supply for a laptop after the original one burned out. The original power supply had a current rating of 4.75A and a voltage of 20V, while the proposed replacement had a lower current rating of 3A. Participants emphasized the importance of matching both the voltage and current specifications, advising that the replacement must have a minimum of 4.75A and exactly 20V to avoid potential damage to the laptop. They also discussed the significance of checking voltage polarity and the risks associated with using lower-quality or unverified power supplies, particularly those from unknown manufacturers. The user was encouraged to seek a reliable replacement and consider local options for testing compatibility before purchase.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Match the sticker: 20 V and at least 4.5 A; a 0.01 A (0.2 %) mismatch “must not in any way affect the operation” [Elektroda, S_Goryl, post #6286825] Use correct centre-positive polarity, or you risk motherboard damage.

Why it matters: Mixing voltages, currents, or polarity can toast the DC-DC converter and leave you with a dead laptop.

Quick Facts

• Output voltage: 20 V DC (±5 % allowed) [Elektroda, cyruss, post #6286905] • Current demand: ≥4.5 A for desktop-CPU model, ≥3.25 A for mobile CPU [Elektroda, asziatko, post #6288147] • Polarity: centre + / barrel – as printed on the replacement label [Elektroda, dzg4, post #6290112] • Price observed: PLN 30–115 for aftermarket units [Elektroda, skaktus, post #6289764][Elektroda, asziatko, post #6289704] • Quality note: Low-grade “replacement” PSUs can inject RF noise and die early [Elektroda, tzok, post #6291462]

What voltage should a replacement adapter for a California Access CA 6900 deliver?

Stick to 20 V DC, the value printed on both the laptop’s underside and the original brick [Elektroda, cyruss, post #6286905] Deviating more than ±5 % risks charging faults or permanent damage, as one 22 V attempt “ended up not charging… permanently” [Elektroda, skaktus, post #6289676]

How many amps does the CA 6900 really need?

Desktop-CPU versions draw up to 4.5 A (90 W), while mobile-CPU versions need only 3.25 A (65 W) [Elektroda, asziatko, post #6288147] Choose a supply that meets or exceeds the required current; higher current rating is harmless because the laptop only takes what it needs.

Is it safe to use an adapter rated for more than 4.5 A?

Yes. Extra current capacity increases thermal headroom and prolongs adapter life [Elektroda, mat_ed, post #6285025] "More won’t hurt—only less" is a good rule, provided voltage and polarity still match.

Can I run the laptop on 19 V or 22 V if I can’t find 20 V?

19 V usually works thanks to DC-DC regulation inside the laptop [Elektroda, tzok, post #6288935], but 22 V has caused charging failure in at least one CA machine [Elektroda, skaktus, post #6289676] Keep within ±5 % (19–21 V) for safety.

How do I check the plug polarity before plugging in?

Use a multimeter: 1. Set to 20 V DC range. 2. Touch red probe to the inner pin, black to barrel. 3. A positive reading confirms centre-positive wiring [Elektroda, S_Goryl, post #6286738]

Does a 0.01 A difference really matter?

No. A 0.01 A mismatch equals just 0.2 % of the 4.5 A spec and is electrically insignificant [Elektroda, S_Goryl, post #6286825]

What happens if I use a 20 V 3 A adapter?

The adapter will run at 100 % load, overheat, and may shut down or fail. Worst-case scenario: voltage droop crashes the laptop or stresses the adapter’s capacitors, shortening life [Elektroda, jankolo, post #6284984]

Are cheap Chinese “replacement” adapters worth it?

Forum users report high failure rates, poor filtering (TV-tuner interference), and inflated specs [Elektroda, tzok, post #6291462] One expert notes, “It’s not the manufacturer but the price that dictates quality” [Elektroda, cyruss, post #6295760] Choose reputable brands or units with solid warranties.

Can I test a new adapter before purchase?

Yes. Sellers cannot forbid on-the-spot checks [Elektroda, S_Goryl, post #6286825] Bring the laptop, connect the adapter, watch for boot, charging LED, and adapter temperature during a short stress test.

3-step how-to: measure polarity with a multimeter

Plug adapter into mains but not into laptop.
Set multimeter to DC V; place red probe inside plug, black on outside.
Positive value (e.g., +20 V) confirms centre +, negative means centre – [Elektroda, mat_ed, post #6286718]

Edge case: adapter fits, voltage fine, yet battery won’t charge—why?

High ripple or unstable regulation can confuse the charging IC. Some low-end adapters exceed 200 mV pp ripple—four times higher than OEM units—triggering safety lock-outs. Swap to a higher-grade brick or original OEM unit [Elektroda, tzok, post #6291462]

Where can I buy a compatible adapter without overspending?

Thread members found compatible 20 V 4.5 A Dell bricks for PLN 30 on Allegro auctions #573858662 and #579849063 [Elektroda, skaktus, post #6289764] Add a matching tip or swap the cable, then enjoy OEM-grade quality at one-quarter the store price.

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