Skoda Fabia Sedan: Stuck Tailgate Lock Preventing Trunk Access

the tailgate lock is stuck.

It is not the fault of the actuator, but the CAN bus in the part that is responsible for it, i.e. the comfort module - and here I should use words commonly considered offensive towards designers from Mlada Boleslav. I had a similar problem during the holidays, I chose my luggage after folding the rear seat. Fortunately, you can attach a rope as an emergency opening. The boot actuator is controlled by CAN. Dry the installation and look for a good repair shop.
ps: check if the electric windows are working.

windows opening works. Thank you for your help.

Dear friends, I know that the topic is old, but I had a similar problem, I couldn't open the trunk lid, everyone said that it was a comfort module or other electronic damn whose name I don't remember, I'm not a mechanic, so I went to the service and it turned out that I am not the first with this the problem and the reason is so flimsy and obvious that it is too easy to take into account. The repair procedure looks like this (in 70% of cases) we open the trunk by entering it by tilting the rear couch, we open it from the inside by the lock there is a small lever with which you can do it, then we track the wires connecting the flap with the car and there we have a problem, of course, this applies to all cars that do not have a cable and a handle, only a button in the lid. in the bundle of these cables, the cable breaks very often from closing and opening the hatch, and although it looks completely, there is a break in the middle and at this point it bends extremely lightly as it is along its entire length, we solder it, isolate it and enjoy the opening of the trunk again in the service they charge PLN 80 for such a procedure, I paid so much and everything is ok. I greet everyone who will help this message

kabi_18 wrote:

Dear friends, I know that the topic is old, but I had a similar problem, I couldn't open the trunk lid, everyone said that it was a comfort module or other electronic damn whose name I don't remember, I'm not a mechanic, so I went to the service and it turned out that I am not the first with this the problem and the reason is so flimsy and obvious that it is too easy to take into account. The repair procedure looks like this (in 70% of cases) we open the trunk by entering it by tilting the rear couch, we open it from the inside by the lock there is a small lever with which you can do it, then we track the wires connecting the flap with the car and there we have a problem, of course, this applies to all cars that do not have a cable and a handle, only a button in the lid. in the bundle of these cables, the cable breaks very often from closing and opening the hatch, and although it looks completely, there is a break in the middle and at this point it bends extremely lightly as it is along its entire length, we solder it, isolate it and enjoy the opening of the trunk again in the service they charge PLN 80 for such a procedure, I paid so much and everything is ok. I greet everyone who will help this message

I met a few related to the leakage of the flap. There was moisture and there was "green" on the joint of the flap opening button and / or the lock breaker. After removing the green forage, the lock worked flawlessly

Thank you for your help, but the trunk is still not working.

I'll heat up the cutlet ...!

In my newly acquired Fabia sedan there was a hatch opening - just so suddenly, before that, there were no symptoms. Somehow it coincided with the fact of defrosting the washer fluid, which I did yesterday - the fluid thawed, but the damper stopped working ... ??? Does not matter. Pressing the button does not cause any reaction of the lock. Opening the door (as suggested in some forums) doesn't work at all. The luggage compartment and cabin lighting is on, the signaling of not switched off lights works.

According to information found on the Internet, the lock in the lid has its fuse and it is said to be marked with number 31. In my case, there is a card with symbols in the fuses and under 31 there is an engine symbol ("check"), but with a lightning bolt. So I don't think it was a fuse from the hatch lock - it is intact, anyway. Maybe in my version (1.4 16v 59kW 2007) this fuse is under a different number, is it possible?

I opened the trunk from the inside today and removed the upholstery from the hatch. The cube with the wires going from the microswitch and the wires themselves do not show any signs of breakage - question: if it was a broken microswitch, the shorting on the ankle (the one in the flap) should activate the lock (?) ) these are the wires from the microswitch on the damper, or one is the power supply and the other is the switch. The cables coming from the flap have different colors than those going into the lock (i.e. the same is only brown). If not, is the power supply to the lock coming from the bottom and to get to it I have to remove all that plastic threshold, right? Or maybe it is enough to unscrew the two screws securing the lock and it will be possible to remove it? from this threshold? Tell me that I don't have to undress the entire back unnecessarily. Where to measure the voltage values, at which terminals? Please help

I will also warm up.
And how did you fix this contraption?

In my Fabia Combi 2004, the actuator in the bumper does not work, only after unfastening the cube with cables that is connected to the lock in the lid, everything works properly. The actuator responds to the button in the hatch every time and there is no problem with opening it, I just don't know what this cube for the lock in the hatch is for and what it does.

Damaged switch and comfort sees the trunk as open, check with a meter and confidently look for the lock, it must be from the station wagon.

I will share my case.
It started with the fact that the opening button above the blackboard had to be strangled several times to open the hatch. Before he finally gave up his ghost after locking the car with the remote control, the alarm signaled the open door.
And to the point ... by pressing the opening button above the board, I have the impression that somewhere in the control module you could hear the relay clicking.
In my case, fuse No. 31 was finally blown, after its replacement, a voltage impulse appeared on the contacts of the actuator when the button was pressed. Measuring with an ohmmeter, the actuator was over 2kohm, I dismantled the entire actuator mechanism, the smell was quite burnt, but the engine miraculously started, now the measurement shows around 2.5ohm. The actuator is working and everything is fine.
Applying a theory to this, it seems to me that the actuator is jammed somewhere and the overloaded engine blows the fuse.
I suggest this test before picking up the "upholstery" and cables, because I got tired of it unnecessarily.