Skoda Fabia 2003: Unlocking Rear Passenger Door in SAFE Mode - 6-Pin Harness & 12V Application

Hello,
The problem is as follows: the door is blocked and cannot be opened from the outside or inside. Pulling the handle from the center of the dzyndzelek pops up, but after releasing it, it drops immediately - I found the info that the 'SAFE' mode was turned on. I tried to lock the car twice in 2 seconds to disable this function, but with no effects; /
I undressed the car upholstery, I have access to the harness going to the lock, can anyone tell me which cables to apply voltage to (12v?) To unlock this lock and open the door?
I have a 6-pin plug in view (there are 5 wires).


PS The computer shows no errors; /

I would be grateful for your help in unlocking this door.

Plug-1 and plug-2, variable polarity.

Thank you very much. Tonight I will check - I hope it works )
He helped for you of course

At the beginning, if you can, hit the lock itself, it usually helps and the engine will start.

Hello,
Thanks for your helpful answers.
Unfortunately, neither knocking nor applying voltage helped - pins 1 and 2 are short-circuited!
So the garbage lock, I did not want to destroy half of the door, I put it back together ... the car still runs with the door inoperative; /

You have to tear him open from the inside to let him let go, I recently did this action in b5FL, just have the zipper in stock. Just be careful not to make a mistake with golf, because they look the same, but electrically they are a bit different. I think it will be the same from Polo.

Let me join you. Namely, tell me how to break a lock or split everything as it flies and try to open the door from the outside every now and then. I have a locked door in Superba 1. Knocking on the door from the outside does not give me anything, so I can only break it how?

check the color cables again:
2 - violet + yellow
1 - blue + yellow
I have the impression that you measured the cables 6 + 5 or 6 + 4 which should be short-circuited
if it does not move but you will hear some soft clicking, try to give a slightly higher voltage.
you can do all this without dismantling the door. the cables are pulled out to the grommet on the B pillar (pin 9 and 11 - they may be different, but you will get by the colors)

zbuku:
in the superbie you have black / gray and black / blue cables - unfortunately, you have the lock controlled from the module on the window lifting motor, so you have to connect straight to the lock after dismantling the door or to the plug at the motor after removing the upholstery.

pats:
5-door polo lock (2002+) or 5-door Ibiza (2002+) will come in handy, but after 2004 there was a slight electric lift, so the locks after 2004 can be controlled by other colors or other pins (to be confirmed)

I did something like that in Ibiza and it was a defect in the lock itself, if you cannot raise the bolt manually, the power supply 'briefly' will not help. you probably won't open the door. At least in the seat you can't unscrew all the screws to split the casing. I bought the same lock, but there was no resistor on the board. (I sold the old lock, the control panel worked) just in case I write because sometimes there is a resistor sometimes not .

gawlo235 wrote:

I did something like that in Ibiza and it was a defect in the lock itself, if you cannot raise the bolt manually, the power supply 'briefly' will not help. you probably won't open the door. At least in the seat you can't unscrew all the screws to split the casing. I bought the same lock, but there was no resistor on the board. (I sold the old lock, the control panel worked) just in case I write because sometimes there is a resistor sometimes not .

Exactly with this resistor there are Fabie Ibiza poles and without it octavie turtlenecks.
with a resistor, the control is on one cable, closing and opening, and without two

I see the topic still valid.
I have the same, the lock does not respond, although the motor is working, which is rather a mechanical problem.
I undressed the upholstery with the door closed (no problem with that), loosened the metal body covering the inside of the door, I have some options there to insert a wire, saw blade, etc., but what and where to press, pull to open the door?
Eventually, I found one more option:
- after lowering the rear seat backrest, you can unscrew the plastic fender cover of the wheel arch, where I have access to the bolt nuts of the lock staple through the hole (the staple remaining on the body of the open door), but will I be able to unscrew the nuts if I will not be able to hold the screws with a Phillips screwdriver from the outside?
Any ideas are welcome, because by pushing my hand through all possible holes, I spent a few hours on a fight, which left me only with cuts on my wrist ...

Can anyone describe an effective way to open such a blocked door? Much has been written here, but no details.
Unfortunately, I have a sheet metal covering the door with rivets and I have to drill it. What's next ? How to get to the lock? Do you have to unscrew it or is it enough to unlock something with a wire or a screwdriver?

Hello Ibiza 6L1 - twin to fabi
For me, the actuator in the door stopped working overnight (right rear),
the door cannot be opened , cut out the seat (seat, backrest), took off the upholstery, cut off the harness for the actuator 5 wires for me brown - the thickest weight
2 medium thick are the power supply of the actuator (alternating +/-) and 2 thin - signals
from the limit switches. I checked the beam was ok, the actuator on the locked door died, the child's lock was also on. I gave 24 V from two 7Ah batteries to power the actuator, the actuator moved, unlocked the lock,
I managed to open the door (I did it on purpose, bearing in mind that if the motor in the actuator is dead, then at a higher voltage the motor will achieve a higher starting torque (such a one-time impulse will not hurt it).
After disassembling and disassembling the actuator, it turned out that the motor is ok, only the actuator position limit switches are dead, when two are hit, the module cuts off the actuator control.
An intermediate recipe is to cut off the signal from the limit switches in the beam, the actuator will work, but after opening the door, the interior light will not light up, and if no other door is opened, the car will close again because the module cannot see the door opening !!!!!!!
For me, I managed to replace one limit switch with a functional one from another actuator
so the module sees the opening, but there is no feedback signal confirming the closing, I cut off the second signal from the switch because the switch was broken and it unlocked the lock only after two quick presses of the remote control.

I am sorry for the good workmanship, but after a hard day, you can think about it.
Good luck

Ps: The actuator has three positions
1 - closed with remote control - will not open the door from outside or inside
2 - closed with the buttons inside or automatically after exceeding 20 km / h - it will not open from the outside, it will open from the inside
3- open it will open from both sides unless the child lock is activated
it will only open from the outside

A colleague writes incorrectly that cutting off the limit switches will help anything because regardless of the state of the door (even when the signal from the door suggests that it is open), the controller does not ignore the attempt to open it, i.e. it exposes the control to the motor in the lock. (otherwise it is with closed doors). The engine just hung up in the lock and in one case you should not draw such conclusions as above. Perhaps the higher voltage set him off and he returned to normal operation it is highly likely, but one should wait when the situation repeats itself.

tomjey wrote:

screwdriver

or hit it hard with something thick sometimes it helps and it will move.

I knock on the lock, I have already taken everything off, the metal sheet on the door from the inside too, the shaft, I knock and nothing. Sometimes you will manage to hear the sound of the lock in this door when you open it, but the sound is different, as if it could not be pulled, the sound is slow and does nothing. How to open the door? Replace the lock? Through the gap where the glass is visible the lock, the part with the mechanism and moving parts. The electronic box lies with its back on the door.

I managed to open the blocked door several times. You have to hit the handle sharply with your hand and at the same time open the central key lock. Sometimes the castle was released on the fifth time and sometimes on the twentieth. Cause - contaminated motor commutator.

Hello, after a long absence, but I managed to unlock the unfortunate door (after about 3 years !!!) Well, the problem was that the external handle cable got blocked due to corrosion and did not return to its place !!!! and struggling with the inside handle did not do anything. Only the analysis of the spare lock gave me the answer what was going on. The lock was in the position as if someone was pulling the outside handle all the time. so tapping and fiddling for free.

Hello.
I have a similar problem with the right rear door in the 2003 Skoda Fabia Estate.
The lock stops opening the door at some point, but after a few days of using the car, it starts working again, but opens 3-4 times and stops working again.
Now the question is, is it enough to clean the actuator in the lock or maybe to replace the entire lock?
What is the possible cost of such a lock?

It is best to disassemble the lock - for an experienced one, it is Max 15 minutes and check if it is not cut mechanically. (for me it was obviously so) used about PLN 60.

Thanks, as soon as I find some time and buy a lock, I'll be playing a lock transplant.

To dismantle, you will need a torx key with 12 incisions. When you disassemble it, connect it and "play" closing and opening. I heard that sometimes you like to sprinkle water on the connector in the door. For me, the lock was working, you can hear what was all the time, but it did not open ...... And when you go on strike, it is silent?

Gentlemen, I have a problem with blocked doors, right rear Skoda Fabia Sedan 2003.
I took off the bacon, unscrewed the plate and I have access to the actuator as such, cut the beam that leads to the actuator, the cables are in the following colors
1 Brown
2 Brownish-yellow
3 Blue-yellow
4 Violet-yellow
5 Green-yellow
I was supplying 12V voltage on the 3 and 4 cables, the actuator is knocking like knocking but the door still cannot be unlocked, I do not know if the child lock is turned because I just bought this car.
Anyone have any idea how to open this door?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Buddy, maybe you cut the bundle too quickly because I had a problem with the handle cord retracting, but the cord that should retract after letting go and the handle not anymore. It was enough to push the cable and the lock opened (cable from the outside handle)

It does not matter, both handles work properly, besides, if the outer one was damaged, it would be possible to open the door from the inside.
At the beginning, I also thought that the fault was the damaged outer door handle, but nothing of it.
PS I did not cut off the entire bundle, only two cables, which I gave the voltage of 12V and 18V.

Outer handle OK but I wrote about the lock cord which is pulled by the handle cord. You have to shine the flashlight and see if it moves back when you release the handle.

Works fine, I checked.

Hello. I have the same problem in polo 4. Anyone know which cables to apply voltage to and how?

Do you have the option to remove the bacon from the door and see something more there?