Raising Pressure in VITOPEND 100 WH Central Heating System

Hello

In my VITOPEND 100 WH oven, the heating pressure is below 0.8 bar and the heating does not work.

How can I increase this pressure? What exactly and where should I tweak?

I invented the instruction for the stove ( Vitopend 100 instruction ) but can't find anything there.

Please help.

At this pressure, the heating should work, if it does not work, it is not the fault of the pressure. What is the Vitopend model, type, boiler number?

The manufacturer recommends a minimum pressure of 0.8 bar. The pressure is at 0.4-0.5 so it is too low. Yesterday the heating did not come on as I tried. Today it fired, but the crux of the question is how to increase the pressure?

As for the stove, it is exactly as below:

http://www.viessmann.pl/pl/products/Gas-fired-boilers/Vitopend_100-W.html


I do not understand what type and number of the boiler is it?

Thank you for your help.

Basically, you have to add water if it is a closed system.
Only carefully, watch the pressure gauges when admitting.

In this model, refilling is from the bottom of the boiler on the left side of the black knob. As for the pressure, this boiler does not have a pressure sensor, min. Water, so heating to a height level according to pressure should work anyway. If you have 0.5 bar, everything is up to 5 meters from the boiler should be heated. Min 0.8 min, depending on the height of the highest point, e.g. a heater, is needed for proper flow, that's why the manufacturer states in the documentation, but it's a different story.

Approx. I will try to double-check it.
Thank you for your help.

Hello.

I have a similar problem, the pressure in the boiler is below 0.5 bar. Please tell me how to use this black knob to fill the water - increase the pressure. Whether this plastic needs to be removed, or is it already a knob in itself. In which direction to screw and, above all, how tightly - I understand that you should follow the pressure gauge. To what pressure should I get 1.2 bar or 1.5 bar? I tried to move this knob but it doesn't go. Do you need to use a lot of force ?? I have never done this, which is why I am asking about it.

Another question is how to bleed the radiators ?? Do you close the knobs on the radiators and then bleed off the air (via the side valve), then open the knob on the heater again. Then repeat the operation. And so with all radiators ?? Is the boiler to be turned on during this operation ???

I am asking for URGENT help.

greetings

This black knob is just what water in it is. Unscrew to the left
as with any valve. A pressure between 1.2 and 1.5 is generally appropriate.
It is best to bleed the radiators when the supply valves are closed.

Got it, it actually works. I had to use "more force" However, how to technically do it now. What position must the boiler knob be in (for radiators), is the boiler to be on or not? I turned this knob, but somehow nothing happens.

Added after 1 [hours] 57 [minutes]:

OK, I've already figured out that dial. I got a pressure of 1.5 bar. And now another issue, i.e. maybe some hint, hint - from experience. The apartment is 2-level, the boiler controller is downstairs (hall) and it controls the boiler, starts and stops it after reaching the temperature limits set on the controller, in the calendar.

What does the setting on the thermostat valve on the radiator matter now, whether the setting 3, 4 or 5. What does it matter now? Is it better to set 4 on the ground floor and 5 on the floor? After all, there are no heat allocators on the radiators (as in blocks, etc.). I know that these values are assigned temperatures, nevertheless the controller will disconnect the boiler anyway.

Can anyone explain this, how to a layman ???

Set all thermostatic knobs between 3 and 4, and you will get a temperature of about 18-22 degrees C. At 5 you always force the flow of water through the boiler, and thus no savings in gas combustion, and the possibility of underheating a room.

I am asking you once again for professional advice on bleeding the radiators.

Gas boiler as in the subject, C22 twin radiator heaters. More specifically, it is a technical method of draining water via the de-aerator valve. Should the radiator valve be closed or open during this operation. At the moment, I have contacted the construction manager who supervised the construction of my house, and he insists that all radiator valves are to be open while venting. I remember that when I lived in a block of flats, the crew also posted information about opening all valves to the maximum before the heating season. However, here on the forum, I was advised to close each radiator vented at a given moment, and then open the valve.

What is the difference and how to proceed. At the moment I have mastered the pressure filling. But I can't cope with one radiator, it is barely warm in the upper part, the water supply pipe to it is hot.

The fact that the heater is on the second floor does not matter, after all, the pressure is there. In one of the radiators I drained the water, it went down from 3 liters and suddenly a stream of water came out with the air. In this radiator, however, I have already drained 10 liters of water and still nothing.

I am waiting for professional advice. I suppose there is still an air bubble in it, but I don't know how to get rid of it. Strange thing.

In large houses, everything has to run, so the only way is to shut off the inflow to a specific radiator. This takes the place of shutting down the pump.
In a single-family house, you can turn off the boiler and after some time, when air is forced to the upper part of the radiator or installation - deaerate.
Turn off the boiler (pump) and vent it

Hello, I'm new, I can see that I can connect to the question as in the topic. Same model: Viessmann Vitopend 100. Pressure: 0.4 bar.
The problem is that I don't have a black knob
Please tell me how and what to twist to increase the pressure.
Attached picture.


28.10.2009 20:34
I shook it, poked it, it worked, it's ok
Best regards and warm evenings

Hello everyone, I have the same problem and the same stove. However, I cannot locate the valve responsible for adding water. I attach a photo of my installation. Thank you for your help.



As I described below ... the left black knob (between the first and second tube) to each other 90 degrees ... if it doesn't work, unscrew the plastic knob and do it with pliers.

Hello
I have the same problem as the previous speaker, the same spigot on the right side free, is it topping up ??

This is a valve designed to drain water from the boiler. But you can connect a hose to it and refill water in the boiler / system (if there is no original valve for topping up). In addition, the photo above shows that the boiler is quite dirty. I propose to call in a specialist before the upcoming holidays

So my symptoms were similar ... first, warm water appears and disappears.

The stove turns on and off ....

Later ... when I tampered with something, a total strike ... eventually even CO stopped working.

And now the medicine.

1) The pressure was around 0 ... strangely enough, the heating worked until it stopped .... so I figured it would increase the pressure (once, 2 years ago, I couldn't ...

I have a stove exactly like in the picture above, i.e. there are 2 symmetrically placed valves ... so I knew that last year I was blowing them and it worked and now I couldn't cope ...

The problem was simple ... these plastic covers are shit !!! I unscrewed them (Phillips screwdriver) and with pliers it was possible to open and close this valve ... , 3 bar ...
I spun.

2) Still does not work after switching on either the red LED is on or is blinking.

So RESET ... well, just like everyone else says RESET RESET and I can't do it ... I thought that the power button was pressed for a while, well, no.
Turn on the stove normally (red diode is on) ... then turn the heating knob (the right one) to the right ... for a few seconds and return it to the optimal temperature position. Once it didn't work ... the second time it didn't work ... but in the end it did. (in the meantime, I turned the stove off for a moment with the button once or twice and turned it on again)

Both heating and hot water work, the red LED is off and does not flash.

I hope that this post helped someone and does not waste valuable time trying to turn the plastic valve ... which is "twisted" anyway :)

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Hello
I just wanted to add water to the Vitopend 100 stove, but the plastic knob just twisted, I wanted to unscrew the plastic with a key, but no key fits, i.e. 6 too big and 5 too small, does anyone have any advice on how to deal with it ???

Unscrew with pliers.

Probably this topic saved me a few zlotys in my pocket because I was desperate to call a professional. One day I vented the radiator in the bathroom because it was half cold, and suddenly the pressure dropped to zero. Nothing easier than to add water. I unscrew the black knob on the left side, and nothing here. It took me two days of thinking to try and unscrew the black knob on the right side as well it is a pity that no one mentioned it earlier in this topic ... Regards.

If the pressure dropped to zero while venting one radiator, check the diaphragm vessel.
There is probably too little air in it or it is damaged.

piracik wrote:

If the pressure dropped to zero while venting one radiator, check the diaphragm vessel.
There is probably too little air in it or it is damaged.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will just add that the radiator in the bathroom is placed the highest in the whole apartment ("rung" type) and actually only it usually has air in it. But once it does, it is half its volume. I probably bleed too rarely ... Oh, I have a small suggestion for letting in water and having trouble opening the valves. Vitopend cocks are made of quite soft material and instead of trying to catch the seized valve once or hard, I suggest you catch the seized valve with pliers and a dozen times to the right and left (of course, with feeling). It always works for me

... and how to add water when there are no these 2 valves ..... only one in the middle (turning it has no effect); (

Unscrew more. Only after 3 or 4 turns does the valve open. It may also be that the seat of the plastic "handle" of the valve has worn out and turning it does not open the valve.

... thanks ... only after 3 full revolutions it worked ...

Hello,


I have an almost identical boiler and the same problem. Unfortunately, "almost". My boiler is VITOPEND 100 WH1B. Unfortunately, from the bottom I have 5 tubes and no valve or knob.

In the "advanced" manual I found it says:

4. If the regulator before filling
was already on:
& Turn both rotary knobs simultaneously all the way to the left.
& Turn off the power switch to
on the controller and again after 3 seconds
turn on.
& Set rotary switch "tw" for approx. 3 s
to adjust and reset
back to the starting position.
Diverter valve positioner
takes the middle position.
tip
The pump runs for approx. 10 minutes.
5. When the switch is completely filled and vented, switch it off
power supply on the controller.
6. Close the filling valve.
drainage
7. Close the shut-off valves after
the heating water side.

Unfortunately, the lack of a drawing with valve A, if these steps are taken, the pump will turn off after a while Anyone have any idea?

There should be a knob on the bottom allowing water to drain. However, if there is no (oddly enough), ask your plumber how he allowed water into the installation. It can also be released with a drain valve (connect a hose, e.g. from a hose, to the drain valve and refill it). Just by manipulating the knobs, the water in the boiler will not come.

I have valves on the tube that connects the cold water supply with the CO return. However, there are definitely no knobs that you can see in the pictures above. From the manual
http://www.technitech.pl/technika/kotly_gazow...1B%20otw%20komora%2010,5-30kW%20(03,2007).pdf, I conclude that these combinations of knobs they are supposed to turn on the pump in the furnace, which is to somehow increase the pressure by taking water from the outside. I do not have a pressure gauge outside the stove, so I wonder if it is not because of some catastrophically low water pressure in my network.

krzysieksarna wrote:

I conclude that these combinations of knobs are to turn on the pump in the furnace, which is to somehow increase the pressure by taking water from the outside

Nonsense - no chance.

krzysieksarna wrote:

I don't have a pressure gauge outside the stove

And how much does the pressure gauge in the boiler show?

0.5 bar. I will invite a specialist tomorrow, I hope that the stove will not turn off by then.