Changing Drill Heads on Older, Reliable Drills: Step-by-Step Removal Guide

Hello everyone, I have a small problem, I would like to change the drill heads, as you can see, the drill is quite old but reliable. Sorry if the post is out of place.

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/42_1253272166.jpg

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/95_1253272400.jpg

Hello.
The head in these drills is on a wedge. You can do it with a bearing puller.

Hello.
Unscrew the jaws of the chuck (just like you would like a large drill bit) and you should see a screw at the bottom. It should be unscrewed and the handle should come out.
This screw has a LEFT thread.
Greetings.

Oh, thank you, maybe today I will look for something like that in the stores

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Unfortunately, my friend, I checked, there is nothing there, maybe the screw has completely worn out over the years because there is nothing there

Added after 4 [minutes]:

exactly I would like to put something like this on the drill http://www.allegro.pl/item738782923_nasadka_d...ertarki_wyrzynarka_brzeszczotowa.html#gallery

Hello, this mount is mounted on a Morse taper and has no screws or wedges. Make a wedge with a cutout for the shaft so that it can be inserted between the handle and the ring on the shaft and try to nail it. You can slightly heat the handle, there is no other way.
Are you sure this cap will work for you?

Confused with the modern handle mount.
At one time, my father had a slightly different and smaller drill (I don't remember the name), also "age-old" and there was a screw mounting.

Evenn wrote:

Hello everyone, I have a small problem, I would like to change the drill heads, as you can see, the drill is quite old but reliable. Sorry if the post is out of place.

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/42_1253272166.jpg

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/95_1253272400.jpg

Do not listen to users who have seen a drill for the first time and add to it a theory that does not make sense.

The fur (drill chuck) in this machine is attached to a Morse No. 2 taper.

You can download as it writes a day , or put a piece of the mandrel against the base of the handle and hit it vigorously with the hammer.
In this case, however, there is a risk that the shaft on which the chuck is attached will slip out of the Seger lock in the drill head.

which does not change the fact that no jigsaw attachment can be easily connected with this drill - and even if you buy an attachment that connects the PRCr 13 drill with the PRCR 10 II accessories, it will be so clunky and bulky that you won't do anything with this equipment. Take my word for it, I did the same thing ten years ago when the PRCr 10 II drill was a rarity. It is easier to buy a jigsaw at a market for PLN 50, you can do more with it.

kortyleski wrote:

(...) Buy a jigsaw in a supermarket for PLN 50, you can do more with it.

And if you find a promotion, it will cost PLN 39.99

the website is telling the truth. Głowiczka is loaded on a cone. I have one too (after my late Dad) and the handle is for a cone. The razor is probably older than me. As I remember correctly, you need to hammer a wedge between the housing and the handle. Dad stuck the chisel and it came down.

Hello :)

Let me join the topic ... today I found such a drill while tidying up the garage. I remember that my late Father once used it in a column holder. When turned on, the drill breaks and sparkles under the brushes. Sometimes it does not turn on at all and you have to turn it to catch it. As far as I know, such a symptom is worn out brushes. And hence the question - where to get such?

greetings

If the drill does not reach full power (revolutions) and the brushes are - even very short - break the rotor and you will not do anything. If you have brushes, you can buy slightly larger ones and fit them to the brush holder with sandpaper. The spring must fit inside.

But too short brushes may not reach the impeller, and no contact may be possible.
Strong sparking is usually something wrong with the brushes, e.g. short. They can also hang in the brush holder. Check that they are walking loosely.
Sparking can be affected by dirty commutator grooves.
In your case, I bet on suspended or short brushes.
You can also make extra brushes yourself.

leszeksz2 wrote:

But too short brushes may not reach the impeller, and no contact may be possible.
Strong sparking is usually something wrong with the brushes, e.g. short. They can also hang in the brush holder. Check that they are walking loosely.
Sparking can be affected by dirty commutator grooves.
In your case, I bet on suspended or short brushes.
You can also make extra brushes yourself.

Do not make a theory about brushes anymore, because here is clearly the rotor to be replaced
.......... you have to twist it to get it ....

thanks a lot, I close the topic

I will join, because no one wrote it, and maybe posterity will benefit - in a very simple way, without a hammer and puller, you can remove any drill chuck from a Morse taper - you only need an appropriate screw with a nut, e.g. M6, depending on the size of the handle - put inside handle a screw with a nut about 1.5 cm from the end of the screw, tighten the handle with a key, and after inserting a key appropriate for its head on the screw, start screwing it - then the screw will loosen the drill chuck from the cone - of course, you need to check the diameter of the hole inside the handle - the screw must fit into it (have a smaller diameter) so that it can rest its end against the end of the drill shaft - you can alternatively grind its end to the appropriate diameter, or use a ball from a bearing with a suitable hole diameter as a spacer.