There are knocks in the central heating pipes.

Hello everyone. I have the following problem and I have not found a clear answer what to do. Well, the point is that when the stove goes out, at a temperature of about 36 degrees, it starts knocking and jerking the tubes (as if it would break them immediately). I think the sound is coming from the differential valve. I am asking for advice on what to do in this situation. I would like to add that I do not know much about this field
I am throwing in pictures of the layout in the basement.

The check valve (pump differential) is supposed to be vertical and I see it horizontally mounted.

so you mean the one right above the pump? he is upright I guess you meant it should be horizontal unless it is about some other valve and I misunderstood.

The green valve in the first photo should be vertical and in line with the arrow.
Regards
irek

If there is a symptom of "jerking" with the pipes, and the knocking occurs when the temperature of the heating medium changes, it is most likely caused by the thermal operation of the pipes.

knocking and jerking of pipes occur together in a pair. but as I wrote, it seems to me that this valve jerks them so much. what do you recommend to do? can it somehow be repaired or something additional to be installed?

Rebuild the system so that the differential valve (green) works in a vertical configuration - above the boiler outlet, and the circulating pump - vertically upwards above the boiler outlet (the check valve after the pump may be, but not necessarily, It can be replaced without draining the system). Lots of space, so it shouldn't be a problem. There was knocking and jerking from the very beginning, whether it appeared after reworking the installation.

It appeared after replacing the boiler and the installation ... The installation was copper from the beginning .. There was no differential valve in the previous installation .. What if the differential valve was removed? Does it play an important role? What do you think about such an idea?

Hello. The task of the differential valve is to pass the gravity circulation when the pump stops generating overpressure and stops closing it. This happens when the pump is switched off, e.g. due to a power cut. The best version of the assembly was given by a colleague malez4 and this is how it should be installed, although some valves can also be mounted horizontally. In general, it is better to have such a valve in the pipeline, do not remove it. This knock is a certainty that this is the valve. You write that this happens when the boiler is put out. This is where the pump probably turns off and clicks. After a while, when the temperature of "stationary" water in the boiler increases, the pump is turned on again, after a while, when it pumps the water, it turns off again, etc. .... It generates a knocking every time. Read the hysteresis of the pump controller. It should be at least 5 degrees.

Only when I turn off the stove, it stops knocking ... Sometimes it can knock for a few minutes .. When it goes out during the day, no problem because you can go down and turn it off .. The worst thing is at night then it knocks so much that it wakes everyone in the house; /
The only thing I found about the hysteresis is the hysteresis of the boiler and the boiler. But I can change this in the furnace settings .. The boiler hysteresis is 5 degrees. I would like to add that the boiler is R-ECO M26

The green valve in the first photo is a check valve to be installed vertically in line with the arrow on it.
Each material, when it cools down, shrinks (reduces its volume). When pipes get hot, they also "puff" because they expand. The water also reduces its volume as it cools down and in this case it returns and causes the valve to knock, but if the valve was vertical, it would not knock, because it would close and the water would return to the furnace through the lower entrance of the furnace. But is this valve at the exit of the furnace or at the return? ... should be at the hot water outlet of the stove

Do you have a closed system with a solid fuel boiler?

Here you have how the differential valve can be situated
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1615425.html

it is installed at the exit of hot water from the stove. What if you were to look for a differential valve that could work in the level mentioned in the previous post? such an exchange would give something?
here they write about this product that it can work horizontally:
http://www.tech-pol.pl/produkty.html

Added after 5 [minutes]:

it seems to me that the system is closed .. and the boiler is solid fuel
but I forgot to write about one thing. the boiler is in the basement and on the ground floor and on the 1st floor I have all these collectors installed, so if there is no electricity, the system does not work by gravity anyway because it does not push water through these collectors .. so I have to turn off the stove so that it does not burst the system or connect the pump to the generator ..
I attach a photo of the collector on the 1st floor:

cris93 wrote:

it seems to me that the system is closed .. and the boiler is solid fuel
but I forgot to write about one thing. the boiler is in the basement and on the ground floor and on the 1st floor I have all these collectors installed, so if there is no electricity, the system does not work by gravity anyway because it does not push water through these collectors .. so I have to turn off the stove so that it does not burst the system or connect the pump to the generator ..

The layout must be rebuilt. Provide emergency power to the pump. When there is no electricity, and there is no gravity water circulation, the stove will quickly boil water. It can be even seconds (depending on how much it is burning).
Although there is some safety valve?

there is a safety valve .. it blows water on the basement in case of something ... it will probably be the reconstruction of the system with the 6th ... so only the reconstruction of the system is possible?

There is not much to rebuild with this system and it is worth doing it almost at no cost. As for the emergency power supply, it is some used UPS and a passed car battery.

Author's words "system through collectors does not work by gravity". So why the differential valve?

I don't know why they installed it ... they knew about the collectors .. can it be unscrewed if it is unnecessary ??

someone will answer

Rebuild the circuit and throw away the differential valve.

What if, in place of the differential valve and these tees, put a pump there and get rid of this section, where is the pump now? such a modification can be?

tweak the layout first for safety and then worry about the rest. You're sleeping on the bomb!

reworking the UPS by adding a car battery to it ... so it will last longer if necessary ... and the modification that I proposed could be or not?

Draw a diagram of this circuit so that you know what is what and where.

The reason for the knocking may be the boiler itself. As you write, it started to knock after installing the boiler, so it is possible that it is the "hammer".

From my assessment it appears that the differential valve is knocking, which - as someone has already written - is not needed. Well, it's not because you have collectors, so forget about gravity. Take that green out, make the installation safer and then nothing will wake you up and you will get rid of the bomb in the basement.

safer ?? more specifically something can be written about this safer installation?

Open circuit, nothing is safer.