FAQ
TL;DR: All 9 pins in the Logitech X-230 D-Sub plug are active—8 signal/ground lines plus a shield [Elektroda, luter6278, post #12968336] “The colour scheme … works perfectly” [Elektroda, skrzypas@, post #8341032] Follow the verified pinout to restore audio in minutes. This FAQ maps wire colours, ground, and shield, shows quick fixes for dog-bitten plugs, and lists safe solder tips.
Why it matters: A correct pinout prevents shorts that can blow the 20 W sub-amp or mute both satellites.
Quick Facts
• 9-pin female D-Sub carries two stereo channels, power-switch, and ground/shield lines [Elektroda, luter6278, post #12968336]
• X-230 delivers 40 W RMS (2 × 8 W satellites, 24 W sub) [Logitech Spec Sheet].
• Typical satellite impedance: 4 Ω‒8 Ω; amp tolerates 4 Ω minimum [Logitech Spec Sheet].
• Replacement D-Sub 9 plug costs €1–€3 in electronics stores [Elektro22, #14801059].
• Reported repair success rate in thread: 4 of 4 users after correct wiring [Elektroda, posts #7328091, #8144735, #8341032, #13154241].
What is the verified Logitech X-230 9-pin plug pinout and wire colours?
1 / 7 – bridged, speaker ON trigger (no colour; solder bridge) [Elektroda, luter6278, post #12968336]
2 – purple, right-channel +.
3 – yellow, right-channel −.
4 – red, left-channel +.
5 – thin matte-black shield/ground (do not confuse) [Elektroda, skrzypas@, post #8341032]
6 – gray, left-channel −.
8 – thick black + blue, sub amp supply return [Elektroda, luter6278, post #12968336]
9 – brown, +5 V switch LED.
Which wire is the ground (mass) in the X-230 cable?
The thin matte-black wire on pin 5 is the common shield/ground for both audio channels [Elektroda, skrzypas@, post #8341032] It sits under heat-shrink and looks dull compared with the thicker black power return on pin 8.
Why are pins 1 and 7 bridged inside the plug?
Logitech routes the power-on signal through the bridge. Without it, the sub-amp stays in standby, and you hear only faint hiss [Elektroda, luter6278, post #12968336] Bridging consumes no current but completes the enable loop.
How do I repair a dog-chewed satellite-to-subwoofer cable?
- Cut the damaged section and strip 15 mm of outer jacket.
- Tin each coloured wire, matching them to the pinout above.
- Solder to a new female D-Sub 9, add heat-shrink, and test.
Most users report a full-volume fix on first try [Elektroda, michał_178, #7328091].
Where can I buy a replacement D-Sub 9 plug for Logitech speakers?
Standard DB-9 female solder-cup connectors are sold in any electronics shop or online for €1–€3 [Elektro22, #14801059]. Look for metal-shell types; they shield hum better than plastic shells.
What tools and materials will I need for the solder job?
• 25-40 W temperature-controlled soldering iron.
• 0.5 mm 60/40 solder.
• Heat-shrink tubing set (2–6 mm).
• Multimeter for continuity.
• Small bench vise to hold the DB-9.
These items cost approx. €15 total if you already own the iron ("cheap but essential" – [Elektroda, Sanowiak20, post #7319933]).
What happens if I mix up the thick black wire and the shield?
Reversing pin 5 (shield) with pin 8 (power return) often mutes speakers and can short the +5 V LED rail, tripping the internal fuse [Elektroda, Sanowiak20, post #7321934] Users report silence, not smoke—an annoying but usually non-fatal fault.
Can I bypass the plug and solder satellites directly to the amplifier board?
Yes. Identify the amplifier IC (e.g., TDA7377). Locate OUT L, OUT R, and GND pins in its datasheet. Trace them to the DB-9 footprint, then solder new speaker leads there [Elektroda, skrzypas@, post #16603532] Keep leads under 1 m to avoid noise pickup.
Why won’t the control satellite turn off even when I press the switch?
A broken ground on pin 5 keeps the LED off yet leaves the amp latched on via pins 1/7. Moving the main cable breaks the intermittent joint, muting the speaker [Elektroda, xp.marek, post #19133729] Re-solder pin 5 shield to restore normal switching.
The blue wire came loose—where should I reattach it?
Solder the blue wire to pin 8 along with the thick black power return [Elektroda, kadafi1og, post #9636592] The satellite will not power up if this connection is missing.
How can I test the repaired cable before reassembling everything?
- Set multimeter to continuity.
- Probe each DB-9 pin while flexing the cable.
- Any intermittent beep means resolder before closing the shell.
An extra 5 minutes here prevents 90 % of repeat failures [Elektroda, MESS7, post #13451634]
What are the speaker specs I should match when replacing satellites?
Use 4-Ω to 8-Ω, 10 W-rated drivers. The built-in amp outputs 8 W RMS per channel into 4 Ω [Logitech Spec Sheet]. Higher impedance only lowers volume; lower than 4 Ω risks amp shutdown.
