Connecting a 4-Wire Planer to a 5-Wire 3-Phase Outlet: Wiring Guidance

Hello.
I need to connect a device powered by 3-phase current (planer). There is a 5-wire cable in the garage. There is electricity in three cables and no in two. I have a planer socket (but there are 4 cables in it). How to connect it? and how to check if the power supply is correct in the cable coming from the wall. The voltage between each of the cables with electricity and those without electricity is 230 V.

And these wires are just sticking out of the wall? Live?
What are the colors of these wires?

they just stick out of the wall.
the colors are definitely green-yellow (no tension), blue (no tension), gray with tension and 2 brown.

Added after 24 [seconds]:

I will go there soon and check if I am wrong

You are not mistaken. Is there anything electrical about this planer besides the motor and the switch? Some button controls, a 230V lamp or something.

I checked the cables: - green-yellow, blue (both without electricity, but when I connected them, the residual-current fuse blew out

Gray, Black and Brown

Added after 46 [seconds]:

there is nothing like the above-mentioned on the planer, steering lamps, etc.

https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6_1257624311.jpg here you have a schematic, the yellow one is a protective one, and the blue one that is left is to insulate it well so that it does not come into contact with the housing and any phase. Greetings

In the planer plug, one contact is different (in plugs with round contacts it is thicker, in those with flat contacts it is angled), you connect the yellow-green wire to this contact, and gray, black and brown to the others. Blue is left unused. If the planer moved to the left, you swap any two of the last three.

This is the other one for you or the thicker one, it is N or the old 0, and the rest are phases, L1, L2, L3. Greetings

Buddy, dent, and since when is the working zero yellow-green? Because this is the function of the PEN cable in a four-wire installation.

Somewhere above the truth has transpired.

It would be best to install a 5PIN socket and such a plug for a planer, then everything would be in accordance with the applicable standard. Especially since you already have 5 wires connected.

Sorry, so from the momentum, a mistake, but only that the yellow mark is a protective PE and the rest are L1, L2, L3 phases. Greetings

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Ie. the thicker one or the other in the nest

Cortile col. Quote:

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It would be best to install a 5PIN socket and such a plug for a planer, then everything would be in accordance with the applicable standard. Especially since you already have 5 wires connected.

And so it should be done! Install the 5P socket (preferably with a switch) and at the device also replace the plug with 5P, using 3-phases and PE.
The norm - the norm, but even common sense dictates that ... Another version is of the genre of "gardening" - or science fiction.

Ps. For God's sake, there is no such thing as a working zero (or a protective zero).
zbyszek_ wrote:

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It is the other one for you or the thicker one, it is just N or the old 0,

In the case at hand the N conductor is not a neutral conductor - and never was!

Yes, it is true that it would be best to install a five-pin socket and replace the plug with a five-pin one. Then connect nothing to the N terminal. The so-called "working zero" is not needed for anything on this machine. It takes three phases and a protective conductor. However, the installation of a four-contact socket does not endanger the user in any way. The only problem may be that the differential is turned off and cannot be used if we connect some other device to this socket.

Correct marking of wires
A 5-wire installation, adapted to work with a residual current device
(live) L1 brown L2 gray L3- brown
No tension
N- blue - neutral conductor - active, in which a small voltage may appear during normal operation, and in an extreme (emergency) situation even above 100V.
PE - yellow-green or with yellow-green tips, called the protective conductor, the only one not included in the differential.
The voltage on it can appear only in the event of a failure, and the flow of current above the trip current of the RCD disables the protection.

As for the tools.
It is important how the manufacturer marked them.
It is about the type of casing and the protection of the user against touching the live parts.
For those willing from my website, in the lectures tab, there are links to presentations on the implementation and securing of installations.
Older tools in metal casings often had the casing bridged with the working zero, which in the event of failure caused the overcurrent protection (WTS-fuses or S-ki) to trip.
Today, such devices can only be used in a 4-wire installation with one conductor replacing PE and N conductors and called PEN.
Attention.
In a 5-wire system, PE and N conductors must not be connected.

information
It's good that you provided your website.
Because I already thought you were a different Krzysztof.
I will add:
4 pins - PEN
5 PE N pins

There are different numbers so that no one gets confused, I haven't seen anyway ;; jet ;; which would be able to insert a 4-pin plug into a 5-pin socket.

information What is the difference between a protective zero and a working zero - where are they and what are the requirements for each of these zeros?

As a moderator, you certainly do not need lectures. 0 rob - N, with -PE protection

Yes, only N has a potential of zero in very few cases. In a buzzing manner, it is customary to say "working zero".

zbyszek_ wrote:

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As a moderator, you certainly do not need lectures. 0 rob - N, with -PE protection

There is no such division in the regulations as protective zero or working zero. If we use the name "zero" in the TN- system, we should also "consult" PBUE (eg issue 6) and familiarize ourselves with the term "zeroing". PEN, N and PE conductors are covered by later legislation - and the de facto requirements for them are different. The year in which the installation was put into service is important, as well as the regulations in force at that time - with specific requirements for the PEN conductor and the neutral conductor.

kortyleski wrote:

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In noisy terms, it is common to say "working zero".

I am aware of this, but the electrician calling the PENZER cable makes a mistake, and others will follow. Different cross-section requirements are for the PEN, and different (were) for the neutral conductor. The PEN wire can be called the old neutral wire in the distribution network - but not the "home" socket. Does anyone lead a 10mm? wire to the socket? No - and this is the cross-section of the PEN cable ...

Akrzy74 wrote:

I am aware of this, but the electrician calling the PENZER cable makes a mistake, and others will follow. Different cross-section requirements are for the PEN, and different (were) for the neutral conductor. The PEN wire can be called the old neutral wire in the distribution network - but not the "home" socket. Does anyone lead a 10mm? cable to the socket? No - and this is the cross-section of the PEN cable ...

I totally agree. I remember talking about it once
Unfortunately, in many booklets (and those approved by only the right organization), on one side it writes about the minimum cross-section of PEN, i.e. 10mm, and on the other side there is a socket and an example of connecting the PEN cable (probably 2.5mm?) .
The proverbial brothel with names continues ...

Okay, but electricians are electricians and people still do not understand the essence of the DISTRIBUTION OF THE PEN.
So there is no point in discussing cross-sections, connections and sockets.
If you are an electrician, you know, I hope what and how.

It is a pity to really spend time writing, reading and searching. Each electrician knows what is 0, what is N, what is PE. But it is the peasant who should explain what and how and what he eats with what. PEN is - protective neutral, N - neutral, PE - protective. After all, there was a breakthrough with him and the nomenclature, but what some people do not really distinguish between it, Elektryka was once and is today, after all, these wires have been and are still today - only their name has changed and every electrician must be aware and remember, and unfortunately not may confuse this. Only that such things are really in handbooks and other literature that each of us encounters. Besides, the question is, if you already have electrics, you renew your qualifications every 5 springs, so why this whole problem here. Greetings

Luke

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The proverbial brothel with names continues ...

Exactly. The creators of the standards did not foresee how much confusion the new nomenclature would bring. It's good to sit behind a desk and pat some text, but to understand the problem - it's just a challenge
romoo wrote:

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If you are an electrician, you know, I hope what and how.

As you can see from the forum posts, few understand the essence of the matter. An analysis of the old and new regulations is needed.

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So there is no point in discussing cross-sections, connections and sockets.

You're right - the thread is about a different issue. I was just curious what someone who writes has to say on this subject:

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standards should be read with understanding

It is not difficult to "punch" a rule learned by heart - the trick is to understand it ...