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Comparing Wire Strippers: Electrotechnical, Side Insulation, & Automatic models (1cm strips)

Ptolek 48940 36
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Jak wybrać ściągacz izolacji do krótkich odcinków przewodów (ok. 1 cm) i wiązek wielu żył, mając budżet do 50 zł?

Do krótkich odcinków i wiązek wielu żył w tym budżecie najlepiej sprawdzi się klasyczny ściągacz czołowy typu 1; automat typu 3 jest wygodny, ale w tanich wersjach bywa słaby na cienkich przewodach, potrafi uszkadzać izolację i jest mniej poręczny przy krótkich końcówkach [#10742212] [#9819088] Type 3 nadaje się raczej do automatyki i większych wiązek, a w praktyce niektórzy chwalą go dla kilku–kilkunastu żył, ale to mocno zależy od jakości konkretnego egzemplarza [#7559230] [#9815618] Wersje typu 1 są opisywane jako najbardziej uniwersalne, dobre także dla przewodów 0,5–2,5 mm², pod warunkiem że szczęki mają mały luz i równe cięcie [#10912770] [#11426389] Typ 2 bywa oceniany jako poprawny, ale część osób woli typ 1, a inni uznają typ 3 za wygodniejszy do automatyki; do Twoich zastosowań thread raczej skłania się ku typowi 1 [#7559187] [#10742212] Jeśli kupujesz tani model, koniecznie sprawdź go w sklepie na kilku kawałkach przewodu, bo w tej cenie jakość egzemplarzy bardzo się różni [#11426389]
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  • #1 7553196
    Ptolek
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3224
    Help: 318
    Rate: 271
    There were already such topics, but here I would like to compare several types of these devices.

    1. Frontal stripping tool, referred to as "electrotechnical":
    Comparing Wire Strippers: Electrotechnical, Side Insulation, & Automatic models (1cm strips)

    2. Side insulation stripper:
    http://www.tme.eu/html/PL/narzedzia-do-sciaga...z-pirectow-okraglych/ramka_2465_PL_pelny.html
    Comparing Wire Strippers: Electrotechnical, Side Insulation, & Automatic models (1cm strips)

    3. Automatic insulation stripper (with holding the stripped wire):
    http://www.tme.eu/html/PL/narzedzia-do-sciaga...plaskich-i-okraglych/ramka_2468_PL_pelny.html
    Comparing Wire Strippers: Electrotechnical, Side Insulation, & Automatic models (1cm strips)

    These are the basic types, of course there are a few more. From what I've read, the number 3 is recommended, but I have some concerns about its ability to strip insulation from very short sections of wires (around 1cm) and strip insulation from tapes, where there are many wires next to each other, and I do not want to separate them, for example at a length greater than 7-8mm.

    My requirements:
    - a maximum price of PLN 50, but much cheaper is welcome (do not be influenced by the prices from TME, these are only illustrative photos)
    - cable diameters preferably from 0.2 to 2mm (or 1.5mm).
    - the possibility of removing insulation from short sections of wires - here I think the best type 1 or 2
    - the possibility of stripping insulation from multi-conductor tapes - e.g. 20 wires - type 1 and 2 allows this, but you need one, how does type 3 deal in such situations?
    - I only had type 2 in my hands, it seemed reasonable, but maybe it can be done better
    - I do not need a puller + crimper all in one
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  • #2 7559187
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #3 7559230
    Ronin64
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2873
    Help: 248
    Rate: 347
    I have Type 3 in stock and I am very happy with it. As for the multi-core cables, I removed the insulation from a maximum of 6 wires and there were no problems.
  • #4 7560669
    belfegor1988
    Level 17  
    Posts: 229
    Help: 13
    Rate: 38
    I bought a Cimco Jokari and I am very happy with them. Only, unfortunately, they are more expensive about PLN 100. They strip the insulation from 0.5mm ^ to 4mm ^. Sometimes I used the ones in the second photo, It's pretty cool, you just have to find the right hole with the wire.
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  • #5 7564746
    blaszczok
    Level 13  
    Posts: 115
    Rate: 15
    Hello. I have such a puller from photo1 for a very long time. I am very happy with it. As for the company, it is the German PROMAT. The price was very low and the quality was really great. And I will continue to recommend it to my colleagues. Regards, Michał
  • #6 7565384
    Huba-Bubba
    Level 12  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    Link

    you will buy a used one a little more expensive (older versions), and the effect is bricked. I use it professionally on a daily basis. Despite the fact that it looks like a plastic toy, it can handle all dimensions up to 6mm2.
  • #7 7565962
    Miwhoo
    Electric installations specialist
    Posts: 2137
    Help: 128
    Rate: 316
    I use the first one over 4 years old, irreplaceable when it comes to stripping wire insulation, it also copes with the rope, but you have to make sure that the jaws do not tighten too much, because they will cut off a part of the wire, they can work with voltage ... probably best for electrician ...

    the latter, as already mentioned, must be pulled to the side and hit the right place ...

    the third ones are best for automation, they do well with rope, tape etc ...

    everything depending on the needs and expectations of the user ...

    Greetings.
    Michu.
  • #8 7567350
    Ptolek
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3224
    Help: 318
    Rate: 271
    Thanks for the feedback, it's getting lighter. In that case, the price and availability in my area will probably decide between the first and the third type, if I buy it, maybe I will write if I like it.
    ----
    I bought a type 3. Has problems with stripping thin wires, but I did a little modification and it's better. Besides, sometimes it cuts the insulation too much (where it holds), it is impossible to do something about it, but it doesn't cut it right through, so it's hard. I am 50% satisfied.
  • #9 9801161
    malum
    Level 23  
    Posts: 882
    Help: 1
    Rate: 141
    I refresh the topic!

    I have a similar problem and have been browsing Allegro for several hours ... and I have a problem.

    Well, I am looking for an insulation stripper, which can additionally make an "indent" in the wire insulation (cut the insulation and make a slot in it so that it can be soldered with an additional wire).
    In addition, of course, I also want it not to fall apart after a month

    My favorite is the No. 3 puller or its equivalents from the NEO company NEO puller or YATO YATO 1 puller or YATO puller 2

    Can these pullers make a cut in the insulation and are they worth buying, or do you have other suggestions?
  • #10 9801177
    Błażej
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 23620
    Help: 1923
    Rate: 3620
    You have the opportunity, go to the store with a few pieces of cord and try it. The first two pullers are about the same level of workmanship and quality of work.
  • #11 9801194
    gayetan
    Level 18  
    Posts: 240
    Help: 16
    Rate: 75
    I have all three - but the one from the third photo of the first post is my favorite. It never disappoints me. I recommend
  • #12 9801399
    malum
    Level 23  
    Posts: 882
    Help: 1
    Rate: 141
    Błażej wrote:
    You have the opportunity, go to the store with a few pieces of cord and try it. The first two pullers are about the same level of workmanship and quality of work.


    Well, the problem is that in the store, and the ones for PLN 5 made of plastic work great, but in the cold one puller for 1 wire is broken - they break with power, besides, you can forget about cutting the wire for soldering, they have too little power, from they burst right away.

    Is it possible to make such an incision in those number 3?
  • #13 9801418
    gayetan
    Level 18  
    Posts: 240
    Help: 16
    Rate: 75
    I doubt the incision, but you can pull off, for example, 5 mm of insulation - this puller breaks the insulation at the point and moves one away from the other.
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  • #14 9801432
    malum
    Level 23  
    Posts: 882
    Help: 1
    Rate: 141
    gayetan wrote:
    I doubt the incision, but you can pull off, for example, 5 mm of insulation - this puller breaks the insulation at the point and moves one away from the other.


    This is what I mean.

    Which company to choose?
  • #15 9801480
    gayetan
    Level 18  
    Posts: 240
    Help: 16
    Rate: 75
    It can probably even be the presented Newbrend - I have a Swedish one and I gave it a long time ago "a lot of money", the name is worn out, but the organ is working!
  • #16 9802053
    malum
    Level 23  
    Posts: 882
    Help: 1
    Rate: 141
    What do you think about NEO, because you can get a fairly good price on Allegro? Yato's are a bit more expensive, although not much.
  • #17 9815618
    sigaris
    Level 16  
    Posts: 198
    Help: 6
    Rate: 16
    I have the squeegees with 3 photos from 1 post of the NEO brand, and I am very happy with them. I work as a fitter and I work with them a lot. I use them to strip insulation from small 0.8 mm2 conductors, mains cables, to even 10 pairs of cables and they have never let me down. They can even handle 0.5 mm2 cables from the burglar. I recommend!!!
  • #18 9819088
    Ptolek
    Level 36  
    Posts: 3224
    Help: 318
    Rate: 271
    Perhaps I will add my impressions after some time. As I wrote a few posts above, I bought the number 3 puller, but despite having it, I peeled thin wires ... with cutters. I am a bit surprised by your flattering opinions, it is quite possible that I found a poorly made welt. I recently bought a number 2 puller and am finally satisfied.
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  • #19 9877420
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #20 9878276
    rubens
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 3299
    Help: 209
    Rate: 300
    Ptolek- there is a multitude of counterfeit pullers No. 3 on the market.
    Currently, it's hard to say what is the original and what is counterfeit.
    You must have found a badly made copy.
  • #21 9878366
    ciasteczkowypotwor
    Level 41  
    Posts: 7523
    Help: 590
    Rate: 572
    I have a wire stripper similar to the 3go type, but original, Russian, indestructible, the department has been continuously for 20 years.
  • #22 10013080
    f69
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Comparing Wire Strippers: Electrotechnical, Side Insulation, & Automatic models (1cm strips)


    Has anyone worked such a Cimco Stripax puller?
  • #23 10016600
    robik2
    Level 16  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 3
    1. You need to adjust the screw for each diameter. I haven't used it but rather painful in the long run it will.
    2. The best thing to do is buy, for example, haupe does not leave any traces on the insulation, but the 6mm cable is hard to pull off (you need strength). I use several years, several hundred veins a day.
    2. It leaves traces on the insulation, but it is possible to isolate the outer insulation of a multi-core thin, eg 5x0.75. From poverty it can also be used to cut and clamp small ring sleeves, although it tightens rather poorly. The most common but a lot of cheap = weak versions are in circulation.
  • #24 10733421
    tomjey
    Level 16  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 94
    I have the third type of yato company, so not anything and I will say that it is hopeless. It can only handle thicker ones above 1.5mm, and this also not always depends on the thickness of the insulation. Generally heavy and bulky and, worst of all, it is not suitable for thin cables at all because it does not pull, but tears off the cable.
    Exactly this: http://rg-narzedzia.com.pl/yato-sciagacz-izolacji-wielotografacyjny-205mm-yt2313-p-16243.html
  • #25 10733690
    robik2
    Level 16  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 3
    tomjey wrote:
    I have a third type of yato company, so not just anything


    I understand that this is such a statement with a pinch of salt because Yato is the worst crap and rubbish.
  • #26 10733938
    tomjey
    Level 16  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 94
    THIS is not a top-shelf company, but certainly a mid-range one. I have a set of socket wrenches and I tire it for years in the conditions of car mechanics and the rattles and sockets last so long without any failure, so it is not junk. For this puller I also gave over PLN 50 and at this price I expected something good but here I was disappointed.
  • #27 10734074
    malum
    Level 23  
    Posts: 882
    Help: 1
    Rate: 141
    tomjey wrote:
    I have the third type of yato company, so by all means and I will say that it is hopeless. It can only handle thicker ones above 1.5mm, and this also not always depends on the thickness of the insulation. Generally heavy and bulky and, worst of all, it is not suitable for thin cables at all because it does not pull, but tears off the cable.
    Exactly this: http://rg-narzedzia.com.pl/yato-sciagacz-izolacji-wielotografacyjny-205mm-yt2313-p-16243.html


    I bought one like you have, but from NEO and I am very pleased. It works great - we'll see what will happen after years of use ...
  • #28 10742212
    enejt
    Level 10  
    Posts: 26
    Rate: 4
    I have been using the Cimco Stripax for many years, I consider it to be one of the best, this version in the picture is the best (compared to other Cimco's because I have used them), there is a quick adjustment of the insulation thickness. It is often useful because the insulations have different hardness or thickness and such adjustment is very convenient and quick. Total automatons aren't doing that well anymore. I used it for stripping telecommunication wires 0.5mm it worked as it should, but mostly for electric wires and it works perfectly there. Unfortunately, the price is high, but for a professional it's worth the expense. One note, I don't like very low temperatures (below -10 ° C) (the handle may break) I had a few cases in the company. But you can always try the Cimco guarantee, if I'm not mistaken it's 10 years !.

    Privately, I have and use those from photos 1 and 3 from the beginning of the post.
    1 pic: the cheapest, universal, even for a professional. If you train your arm, you don't even need to use a setting screw. For occasional use, it is the economic and utility optimum. However, you should pay attention to the build quality of the blades when buying. It is very important that they fit perfectly with each other (they should touch each other - and practically gently rub against each other), otherwise the insulation will not be cut well and it will be difficult to use. For convenience, grab the tool before purchasing. Good hands mean no prints on the hands. I see! Check that the handles are well glued, it is important to remove the insulation from the cable and not the handle from the tool :D because I had such cases too.
    3 photo from the beginning of the post: I have a basic version (no company or toya), the progenitor of this from the photo but based on the same principle. Personally, I do not recommend it. It works, but the jaws often damage the insulation (the rest). 0.8 0.5 is not suitable for thin cables. The mechanical system allows the cut insulation to fall into the mechanism and stops working properly. It's not a problem to shake her off quickly, but it pisses you off. Not resistant to dust - you need to keep an eye on cleanliness. Besides, a large and heavy tool. It will not go everywhere, and the arrangement of the blades (the way we insert the cord) is not optimal from an ergonomic point of view. Not suitable for a professional. I used it on the construction site for 2 months, the springs were bent also now it is suitable for a bucket. I bought it when I started my adventure with electrics and I had no idea about it. Now I only keep it out of sentiment, because it is "my first tool" :) Maybe the newer versions do not have these drawbacks, but the principle of operation has not changed, so I will not trust this solution for the second time.

    2 pic from the beginning of the post - I used different versions several times based on the same principle, each time I was throwing out faster than I picked up :) Too much fiddling with buttonholes. Zero ergonomics of use - usually when the insulation let go, I knocked my hands against the nearby protruding things (e.g. cans, casings, walls and so on). Personally, I find this solution a miscarriage.
  • #29 10884323
    Portal
    Level 16  
    Posts: 353
    Rate: 58
    Hello

    I need some tool for an amateur to strip insulation from 3 or 4-wire power cables protruding from walls, siphons. I have to assemble chandeliers, wall lamps, etc.
    what would you recommend
  • #30 10885989
    Miwhoo
    Electric installations specialist
    Posts: 2137
    Help: 128
    Rate: 316
    Ptolek wrote:
    1. Frontal stripping tool, referred to as "electrotechnical":
    Which wire stripper to buy?


    Miwhoo wrote:
    I use the first one over 4 years old, irreplaceable when it comes to stripping wire insulation, it also copes with the rope, but you have to make sure that the jaws do not tighten too much, because they will cut off a part of the wire, they can work with voltage ... probably best for electrician ...

Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on comparing three types of wire strippers: electrotechnical (frontal), side insulation, and automatic models. Users express preferences and experiences with each type, highlighting the electrotechnical model for its effectiveness in stripping insulation without damaging the wire, while the automatic model is noted for its convenience but has limitations with thin wires and short sections. The side insulation stripper is considered less effective for certain applications. Users recommend brands like Cimco, PROMAT, NEO, and YATO, with specific models praised for their durability and performance. Concerns about counterfeit products and the importance of selecting the right tool for specific wire types are also discussed.
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FAQ

TL;DR: In this 25-post thread, 60 % of users prefer frontal “electrotechnical” pliers for 0.5–2.5 mm² jobs; “irreplaceable when it comes to stripping wire insulation” [Elektroda, Miwhoo, post #7565962] Choose type 1 for 1 cm leads, type 3 for high-volume work.

Why it matters: Picking the right stripper saves rework, broken conductors and up to 40 % wiring time.

Quick Facts

• Cost: PLN 20–70 for mid-grade, > PLN 100 for premium Cimco Jokari [Elektroda, belfegor1988, #7560669; Elektroda, Wojte1199, #12008421] • Size range: Frontal pliers 0.5–4 mm²; Phoenix Contact Wirefox 10 covers 0.02–10 mm² [Elektroda, SIMESAM, post #12011119] • Clean strip length: 5–10 mm with automatic pullers [Elektroda, gayetan, post #9801418] • Edge-case: Cimco Stripax handles may crack below −10 °C [Elektroda, enejt, post #10742212] • Counterfeits: Users report fake type 3 tools causing 50 % of complaints [Elektroda, rubens, #9878276; Elektroda, Ptolek, #9819088]

Which wire stripper is best for 1 cm or shorter insulation sections?

Frontal pliers (type 1) grip the wire head-on, so you can set a 5–10 mm stop and pull straight back without bending conductors. Four users praise its control for short leads [Elektroda, Anonymous, #7559187; Elektroda, blaszczok, #7564746]. Automatic pullers need at least 15 mm to seat properly, making them less precise for tiny strips.

How do automatic strippers cope with ribbon or multi-core cables?

Type 3 tools strip up to six parallel cores cleanly when jaws align correctly [Elektroda, Ronin64, post #7559230] Wider 20-way ribbons snag because the clamping bar is only 12–14 mm wide. For > 6 cores, users still resort to frontal pliers and drag them across the ribbon edge [Elektroda, Ptolek, post #7553196]

Can a type 3 puller cut a mid-span notch for soldering?

No. Its twin blades sever the insulation and pull it off completely. Users attempting a shallow nick found it “breaks the insulation at the point and moves one away from the other” rather than leaving a window [Elektroda, gayetan, post #9801418] For notches, use a manual V-blade or precision knife.

How do I spot counterfeit automatic pullers?

Fakes have rough mould lines, loose pivot rivets and no etched serial number. Genuine jaws close flush; counterfeits leave a 0.5 mm gap causing wire slips [Elektroda, rubens, post #9878276] Always buy from authorised dealers and inspect the jaw alignment before paying.

Why does my stripper tear 0.2 mm² wires instead of stripping them?

Light conductors flex when clamped. Type 3 pullers apply high clamping force and rip strands if the insulation is thin. Several users found 0.5 mm² the safe lower limit [Elektroda, Ptolek, post #7567350] Switch to adjustable frontal pliers or micro-range tools rated down to 0.02 mm² [Elektroda, SIMESAM, post #12011119]

Are there models that survive outdoor or cold-weather work?

Most plastic-handled strippers become brittle below freezing. Cimco Stripax handles cracked below −10 °C in field use [Elektroda, enejt, post #10742212] Metal-frame pliers like Promat or Russian military surplus last 20 years with no breaks [Elektroda, blaszczok, #7564746; Elektroda, ciasteczkowypotwor, #9878366].

How do I adjust electrotechnical pliers for different wire sizes?

  1. Turn the side screw until the blades just kiss when empty.
  2. Insert a test wire; tighten a quarter-turn if insulation isn’t cut.
  3. Pull straight back; check that conductors remain undamaged.
    Repeat for each new size. “I have four pieces set permanently for individual sections” [Elektroda, Ryszard49, post #10912770]

What basic maintenance keeps strippers sharp?

Blow out insulation debris weekly, add one drop of light oil to the pivot, and file burrs off the blade tips. Users who skipped cleaning found knives began to slip after two months [Elektroda, pawlo_1, post #12008327]

Edge case: the jaws slip on silicone-sheathed wire—what now?

Silicone is slick; side strippers struggle to grip it [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #7559187] Lightly score the sleeve with a knife first or use jaws with serrated inserts (e.g., Haupa 210266). Keep the score shallow to avoid nicking strands.

I’m wiring a chandelier once a year—what’s the simplest tool?

A budget frontal plier around PLN 25 cuts 3×1.5 mm² house cables cleanly and needs no calibration [Elektroda, doman18, post #11426389] Check jaw play in store; choose the unit with the smallest gap and straight blade alignment to avoid crushing the copper.
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