Engine Oil for Generator: API 10W-30 vs Elf 10W-40 - Differences and Manufacturer's Recommendations

Hello.
I have purchased a new generator with a four-stroke engine. The manual recommends API 10W-30 oil. I couldn't buy this oil in nearby gas stations, so I poured the engine of this unit with elf 10W -40 oil (used in car engines) out of necessity. Is it better to change to oil according to the manufacturer's recommendations? I am asking for an answer, thank you in advance
Greetings!!!

Yes of course. The oil you used is designed for slightly higher temperatures (higher viscosity stability). Virtually irrelevant in Polish practice.

I flooded 5W-30, better quality, more synthetic charge (the quantity of which is not specified in our country in Germany, although 5W must have an admixture of synthetic) first parameter 5W indicates better viscosity properties at low temperatures, otherwise the oil is thinner, e.g. during start-up in winter and in the initial stage of start-up, it has better penetrating properties, which is certainly not without significance with such a device. The 5W parameter is also important, of course, until the engine warms up, and in this case the leading one is the second part of the SAE viscosity specification, ie 30. I agree with my friends from poverty, you can replace the 10W-40 with a 10W-40 replacement instead of the dedicated 10W-40, but never the other way! . At the same time, the thickness of the oil film left on the surfaces of the honored cylinder shows greater accuracy of the engine, greater precision, often better materials used in production - of course, in theory, time will show how much such engines will withstand when working with a fairly large amplitude of vibrations. Besides, even in a lawn mower in which they recommend eco vegetable oil, I have been using a much better synthetic 5W-40 oil for several years, which has much better parameters than only SAE30, despite a thicker lubricant film.

Engines of Chinese aggregates and mowers are of poor quality. There is no oil pump and cylinder liner e.g. cast iron.
I pour oil with molybdenum disulfide.

Megawe that they are bad, I will agree ? what money is such equipment. Molybdenum disulfide super thing right. Well, the sleeve is also correct, there is no wet or dry sleeve ? but the combined cylinder block is direct cooling and must also be honored.