Newly Built House Missing Grounding and Incomplete Electrical Work

Hello. I would like to join in with a question. Well, I`m wondering if you have a good way to drive pin earth electrodes. I heard that it can be done with an SDS Max impact hammer. Do you need a special hammer tip or maybe a special grounding rod with a holder for SDS MAX?

I used a Bosch hammer and a special driver converted from an SDS Max cutter to drive hundreds of squid You also need a short "hammer" (pin) made of a hard material so that it does not "stick together" during hammering.
It looks similar to a small lace without sinters, only in a mini-very mini version turned on a lathe and welded.
In galmar - in the place where it is folded, a short mallet made of hard material is inserted (it cannot be too long or it will bend) and this in turn "goes" into the "lace"...
If I remember, I will post a photo tomorrow.

You can even buy such "tickets". One note, the hammer must have a minimum impact of 10J, then it goes like butter...
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EDIT:

PBGSDSMAX SDS MAX impactor for driving copper-plated threaded earth electrodes 5/8", 3/4" PLN 126.17/pcs.

Miwhoo wrote:

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It all depends on the existing conditions, if the building is not equipped with overvoltage protection, the resistance value does not really matter. If surge protectors are installed, the ground resistance must be reduced to below 10 ohms.

My friend Miwhoo I will also ask you for an explanation.
What does the value of 10 ohm mean when, together with the lightning protection installation, there is also surge protection - in this particular case, surge arresters in the "B+C" main switchboard?

The earth electrode in the case of this facility is a vertical earth electrode, with poles driven approximately 4.5 m - 6 m high. The values I received range from 6-15 ohms (direct reading before taking into account the ground correction factor) for individual earth electrodes on "open" control connectors.
How to calculate the resultant value of the entire earth electrode?

On a different note - what is the point of using a protector on the "N" wire in the main switchboard, where PEN has been divided into PE and N? Let us assume that the section of the cable connecting PEN with N and PEN with PE does not exceed 50 cm.
Regards

I haven`t seen a 4-pole protector for TN-C yet. I always use 3-pole ones, PE and N are compact anyway...

Surge protection installation does not always go hand in hand with lightning protection. Out of several dozen projects that I had the opportunity to carry out, and even more projects that I received for valuation, none of them had a lightning protection system, because the designer calculated the probability of a lightning strike at the level of 10E-8 or something like that, generally it turns out that the probability of a lightning strike buying a house like this is comparable to winning the lottery.

10R is required by overvoltage protection manufacturers. I would have to check the catalog carefully.

Miwhoo wrote:

PBGSDSMAX SDS MAX impactor for driving copper-plated threaded earth electrodes 5/8", 3/4" PLN 126.17/pcs.
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Cool thing. I need to buy something like this or try to make it.
Next question: How do you mask GSW. What I mean is that in the boiler room (where GSW is most often placed) there are usually tiles and there is a problem because the GSW box disfigures the wall. For example, I came up with a solution in which I glue metal plates to the box with double-sided tape, and the tiler glues magnets from the inside to one of the tiles that are supposed to cover the box, and then screws on a handle (an ordinary furniture handle) from the visible side, and thus covers the box. . It looks quite aesthetic. Especially if there is no handle, because then you can`t even see the one ungrouted tile. But if you want to get to the box, you have to pry it up with a screwdriver.

Without exaggeration, this is a technical room. The pipes in the boiler room don`t bother people, but the masking cover does
You can do as you suggested with a "magnetic tile", but this is rather a later concern and not an electrician`s concern.

I provide standard inspection boxes, the tiler fits them and covers them in his own way, here`s a first-hand example (raw state):

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Miwhoo wrote:

10R is required by overvoltage protection manufacturers. I would have to check the catalog carefully.

It is different, the manufacturer of the arresters suggests 10 ohms for the lightning protection system in the building where the arresters are installed - and what if there is no lightning protection, and many individuals, e.g. in single-family houses, do not have a lightning protection system, but they definitely have surge arresters.
I don`t understand this relationship - you have a lightning arrester and you put on arresters - the value of the earth electrode should not exceed a certain value, you don`t have a lightning arrester at all - you put on arresters - is it ok?

Thanks for your answer, best regards

And look from this side:
- the lightning protection system protects the building against direct lightning strikes to its structure
- surge arresters protect the installation against the effects of an impact at a short distance, so it can be assumed that they protect against an indirect impact

The combination of both protection measures provides the greatest safety, because it provides protection against direct discharge and its effects, which are overvoltages induced in the installation.

Having only arresters only protects against overvoltages resulting from discharges at a short distance. In case of a direct hit, the dog will use...

It`s best if your neighbor has an active lightning arrester with the so-called "early leader issue"

Miwhoo wrote:

The combination of both protection measures provides the greatest safety, because it provides protection against direct discharge and its effects, which are overvoltages induced in the installation.

Welcome back.

I agree with your statement, I always explain to the client and interested persons that there is no 100% protection of installations or property against discharges or other sources of overvoltage, but we limit the potential damage.

My question typically concerns 10 ohms - because the amount of work and material used, resulting from the cost estimate, was not enough to obtain 10 ohms on each of the individual earth electrodes. Therefore, I would like to fully explain this topic - mainly with an eye on how to calculate the resultant resistance of the entire earthing electrode, because from what I have understood from various sources - I do not know if it is correct - what counts is the resultant result of the entire earthing electrode?

Coming back to grounding and GSW - I will not start a new thread unless the moderators decide otherwise.

What to do when some rooms on one of the levels of a 4-story building need to be modernized. There is an electrical switchboard on each level ("plugs" protection on an ebonite board)
TN-C system, it is not possible to add a protective conductor.
A new switchboard is to be built in a different place just for the rooms being renovated. If I now divide PEN into N and PE in the new switchboard, use differential switches but do not ground the PE point - will this be correct? (distribution power cable 10mm Cu)

Regards