Monoblock Air Conditioner Window Sealing: Creating Custom Adapter for Different Window Sizes

Hi,

I already have a monoblock air conditioner in a rented apartment for a year, we moved recently and I have a screeching now - how to seal the window so that the protruding pipe does not let warm outside air in again?

Previously, I obtained a piece of home-made PVC flooring, 4 slats, glued everything together and cut a hole for the air-conditioning pipe - but in the new apartment the window has a different dimension and it is impossible to simply use my "adapter".

Now I was thinking about some kind of foil (or even this PVC flooring again), attached with Velcro (self-adhesive Velcro in the window frame, and on my adapter),

But it's a bit like breaking down an open door, are you sure nobody has come up with anything better?

Google doesn't know anything about it.

Do I have a business idea?

It looks like it does At least I haven't come across dedicated solutions. So it remains to refine, patent and see how money flows into the account

I would rather make a hole in the wood to fit the window, e.g. thin plywood. When I want to cool my flat, I put the pipe in the hole, put my whole breath in the window, seal it and cool it. The advantage of wood is that it does not heat up quickly compared to PVC and foil. The downside is that it cannot be folded like foil, but it can be put behind the wardrobe.

I have the same problem. I just bought a portable air conditioner, it works great in a room of about 12m2. The only downside is its loudness .. As for the pipe, it is actually - the room is cool and pleasant, but with the window open it feels hot again .. As a result, the air conditioner is often turned on. Tomorrow I decided to try to seal the window (the open one, where the pipe comes out) with polystyrene. I will definitely write about the effects.

and you will take a vacuum and it will suck air through all the other holes

And he didn't write about the effects ;)

I bought insulation panels 60x100cm with a thickness of 5mm, inserted into the window with self-adhesive Velcro - they stick OK, but in fact after closing all windows and doors - I have a concave effect, and the sides suck in air from the court ;)

But it works much better for me than with the big window open.

Only the assembly and disassembly of this "invention" is quite troublesome. But you have to cope somehow like 32 ° C outside

I would not try this Myk with reduction

The diameter of this pipe cannot be reduced.

And is it not possible to change the shape of the pipe in cross-section from a circle to an oval or a rectangle,
of course with at least the same cross-sectional area?
I saw such shapes of pipes for cooker hoods somewhere.

An adapter just in front of the window would be useful. A narrower and longer shape would be more convenient to fit into the slot of a tilted window instead of a 125mm tube.

you can, e.g. zelmer portable air conditioners have it

Akai also have a round tube, but only a rectangular outlet end and are equipped with an adjustable window slider 90-130cm.

I have just a question, how to mount this akai slider? The manual is "exceptionally" helpful

That's right, I was supposed to write, but I still worked on everything and that's how it turned out So yeah, the polystyrene is coming off, after installing it, I had the whole room in white pellets .. it just pressure blew up my seal. It's true what someone wrote about this vacuum. I looked at this underpressure more closely and I did this: first, I sealed the door to the room (around the seal, underneath such hairs), then I sealed the other windows thoroughly, in the opening left after opening the window I inserted a wooden floor panel from the Swedish floor (in this panel I previously cut with a jigsaw hole for the pipe and mounted a plastic slider). I also sealed the panel. The open window must be firmly tied with a string to hold the panel. When the air conditioner is started, a negative pressure is created in the room, i.e. warm air is sucked in, so I sealed any remaining gaps with which the warm air was blowing with ordinary colorless adhesive tape. I am attaching a picture.

Effect? In a very sunny room and the temperature of 37-40 degrees, what it was today, while sitting in the room by the air conditioner, my legs were cold.
I know and I found out that a two-part split-type air conditioning would be better, but for PLN 490 with assembly, I will not buy it ..
To sum up - the basis for using a portable air conditioner is the perfect sealing of the room.

I have been using such an air conditioner for 3 years and I solved the problem with the sealing with a 5mm plexiglass covered with silver veneer with an oval hole cut out.
I have the plexiglass cut so that it covers the entire window and is fixed with home-made aluminum claws, so assembly and disassembly is hassle-free.
The windows are wooden but made like plastic, everything is mounted so that I can remove the pipe at any time and easily close the window without removing everything (in case of departure).

And I approached the subject a bit differently. I bought a PVC pipe from Casto, if I'm not mistaken 125mm, I drilled a hole in the wall on the outside ... I inserted the pipe and sealed it with polyurethane foam, finished it with plaster on the inside, and installed a ventilation grille from the outside so that no one looked inside ...
The pipe obviously has a slight slope to the outside.
Of course, it was relatively easy to do because I live on the ground floor ...
but the building is over 50 years old and it took some time to drill the hole through a 60cm solid brick wall ....
I applied such a patent in 2 rooms and now I can take the air conditioning with me ...
You just have to remember to unseal the window, otherwise it will start sucking in air through the ventilation or the chimney ...
Greetings.

For my part, I would like to add that it is worth unsealing in a place where the temperature is low (e.g. a basement). The air conditioner will then have less work, and this translates into specific savings.
Regards.

http://wyprzedazrtvagd.pl/8707-uszczelnienie-okna-do-klimatyzatora-einhell-model-2365150.html

The topic returns like a boomerang. I want to buy a portable air conditioner and put a pipe out the window. From what I understand, the window can't be too tight, or it's going to get a negative pressure, right? The plan is to open one sash of the window and insert the plastic adapter into the pipe along the entire height of the window. Then there will be an unsealed clearance above and below the tilted sash. It'll be all right?

As for sucking in these 500 cubic meters of air per hour / because this is more or less the air conditioner will move / - it will be good.

As for the general idea of cooling the room - because this is the purpose of these activities - it will be bad

The only and sensible solution is a dedicated air discharge opening, located next to the air conditioner. All other options are a fallback.

it makes sense
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJtmGaLtI94

It would be even better if 2 pipes could be inserted into such a frame: inlet and outlet. But then the monoblock would have to have 2 inputs (maybe there are such?). In such a solution, it would not draw in air from the outside.

ryin wrote:

it makes sense
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJtmGaLtI94

It would make sense if you could close the window tightly and cover it.

duddy wrote:

How could you close the window tightly and cover it

You've got her tightly sealed by a matching athermic bezel. Why cover up?

duddy wrote:

It would make sense if you could close the window tightly and cover it.

And the air to cool the air conditioner condenser will you carry in buckets?
In order for hot air to come out of a room from somewhere, another must replace it. It has to be different from the outside. It's very hot right now.
Is it so hard to understand and not to write nonsense? Primary school physics bows.

jack63 respectfully but where's your stupidity. The air is drawn under negative pressure anyway, wherever it can be, so it is much better to pull it from somewhere other room than hot air from the manor house. A leaky window through which we throw hot air from the device is stupid. Do you blow hot air out of the window and take it into the room at the same time? Do you know what cooling a room is ??? So who writes nonsense here? Read the posts how many people have done this and all of them write unequivocally that no cooling effect and then see when they have improved ... How they sealed the window and made a dedicated ejection in the wall.

duddy wrote:

The air is drawn under negative pressure anyway, wherever it can be, so it is much better to pull it from somewhere other room than hot air from the manor house.

How it will work, because as a rule the windows are tight and the ventilation is blocked, "because it is windy".
This one or two, is this air "drawn" from Siberia to these other rooms? Or maybe from the same "court". We speak from the field.
That way you have a lead all the way through the apartment.
For the thermal effect, it is better to pull the window down and be thrown out through the pipe. Both will start with little outside air, not full when it can or incomplete when it can't, and cook the air conditioner!

duddy wrote:

Do you know what cooling a room is ???

It just so happens that I know because it's my job. And you still goo ... you know and you can't even read.

brofran wrote:

It would be even better if 2 pipes could be inserted into such a frame: inlet and outlet. But then the monoblock would have to have 2 inputs (maybe there are such?). In such a solution, it would not draw in air from the outside.

A colleague brofran passed, and you thought ...

And that you insisted on showing that you are the only one right. A colleague specifically asked the question "How to seal the window ..." and we are talking about this topic, while you all the time "And you will carry the air to cool the air conditioner condenser in buckets?" Or "For the thermal effect it is better to pull the window, etc. etc. He seals understand and asks about it, not what is better what is worse ... We both know that the efficiency of this device, with a relatively low cooling efficiency, will be better if you close this window. And this is even indicated by the producers, who write in the instructions about "sealing and accessories for sealing" windows, if we stick a pipe through them. As you can see, even the producers of the better or more expensive devices in the two-pipe system, i.e. the ejection and air intake to the condenser, write in the instructions about the minimum distances between these pipes, for example 130 cm or even 150 cm from you. We do not discuss here whether the air from the manor house is healthier, because it will be healthier, cleaner and with a nicer smell, but the efficiency will be lower than the air that is drawn in by the leakage in the door to the staircase where it is cooler. It will draw some part with ventilation, which it often blows into the apartment anyway. And with this ventilation, the air will be a bit cooler. I think the thread clarity is already quite good and let's discuss it. There was also the topic of cooking a compressor somewhere and I definitely conclude that air at 22 * C from a room like 22 * C in a 50/50 ratio with air at 30 * C from the court is better for it. And once again I will remind you at the end, we are discussing "Sealing the window at the monoblock air conditioner" and not who is smarter and who will get +1 "helped"

kjelon wrote:

The topic returns like a boomerang. I want to buy a portable air conditioner and put a pipe out the window. From what I understand, the window can't be too tight, or it's going to get a negative pressure, right? The plan is to open one sash of the window and insert the plastic adapter into the pipe along the entire height of the window. Then there will be an unsealed clearance above and below the tilted sash. It'll be all right?

Hello
My solution is this:
I opened the smallest window sash and pressed a piece (0.6 m2) of solid transparent polycarbonate, 4 mm thick, against the window seal. Additionally, I used an external sunscreen. The total cost is approx. PLN 170.
It looks quite aesthetic.
Suction of air through the window with the IMHO discharge is pointless as the temperature of the exhausted air is about 42 degrees. It is impossible to avoid at least partial suction of air from the discharge.
In my case, air is replenished through natural door leaks and an open window in the next room.
The negative pressure is slight (you can feel it when you close the door). But let me add that the air conditioning fan runs at medium speed.

greetings