I have gas in the cylinder but it beeps that there is no gas.

this has been happening for a few months. I drive normally on gas, I still have 30 liters in the cylinder and suddenly it beeps that there is no gas and asks me to switch to petrol. I switch and then it is not possible to turn it back on gas. then you can only drive on petrol. But, for example, on the second day, if nothing happens, I turn on the gas with the button and elegantly drive on gas. It can drive well even for a few days, then again the same thing. But it can also drive well for a few minutes. There is no rule.
I'm losing a bit of patience. The gas inspector checked the injectors, they are ok, the computer does not show an error because every time I went to the gas inspector, at that moment the accumulator turns on normally. ok. And it's hard for him to tell how everything works.
Installation is prins.
Please help.

Moderated By Pawel wawa:

Please read the regulations. Spelling! I corrected the title.

If I were you, I would check the cylinder valve and the float responsible for checking the gas level.

I just went to the gas service (of course, when I started it, it switched to gas normally) I ask what could be ... I suggest a valve, a float. He thinks and says ... no, something does not hold pressure but it did not help because there is no time.

From what you write, it appears that you have pressure drops in the installation, which the computer detects.
There may be several reasons.
Multivalve in the tank, solenoid valve, reducer-evaporator. It can also distort the pressure sensor.
If it does not want to switch, check if there is pressure by removing the hose at the injection. It should hiss clearly. NOTE GAS.

My friend aris55 I have a prins too and had the exact same thing. The description from the first post is typical for an oil-contaminated reducer (unstable pressure). Sometimes it is what I call it - the malice of dead things - when they are checked, they work perfectly. The best diagnostician in this case is a permanently built-in pressure gauge on the cable between the reducer and the bar, and then when a fault pops up, everything is visible as if on a shovel. In this case, the pressure on the bar jumps up a lot, how high I don't know because the pressure gauge is up to 2.5 atm (bar). Switching back to gas is possible (in my case) when the rail pressure drops to around 2.5 atm (the pointer moved from the extreme position). The probable cause, in my opinion, is that with such a high gas pressure, the gas injector opening time given by the gas computer is lower than the injector's capabilities.

this is an interesting suggestion. thanks. In that case, I have to secure it with a spec. In this case, will cleaning the reducer of this dirty oil improve the condition?

I didn't have to suggest the specialist and discuss with him, because I cleaned the reducer myself. It may turn out that a repair kit will be needed, as the membrane(s, there may be two) will be stiffened, I did not have such a need. When cleaning, pay special attention to the cleanliness of the opening of the sleeve for the stem and the stem itself as well as the seat in which the gas control valve cone operates. After assembling, set the working pressure of the reducer as it was before (if it has not been changed before). You should also not mess with the settings, and if something has been changed, return to the previous settings. The general rule I follow - if there is a fault, locate it and remove it, not change the settings. The settings are changed when an element is replaced and the characteristics of the new element differ from the old one.
There should be no oil in the reducer, especially on those elements that I have replaced. Its presence disturbs - it slows down the movement of the above-mentioned elements, causing increasing (increasingly) pressure deviations from the set pressure - this is clearly visible on the pressure gauge.
Good luck.

today he started to walk on gas very badly. jerks and drives as if one cylinder is disconnected, as the petrol switch is still the same, i.e. jerks. But if you turn off the ignition and turn on petrol, it drives ok. (i.e. the errors will be erased)
Can this indicate a damaged coil on the first cylinder? It constantly displays such an error on the computer and the "check engine" light has always been on.
Can bad work on gas be the reason for a damaged coil which sometimes (cannot) because sometimes it works ok.

I don't know what kind of car my friend is tormenting and what the check energy means.
I do not believe that engine operation on gas can cause damage to the ignition coil, at most damage to the spark plug (I read about such cases on the forum), when working on a poor mixture, but I am not convinced.

Quote:

Can this indicate a damaged coil on the first cylinder? It constantly displays such an error on the computer and the check energy has always been on.

How to understand - always check whether it also burns on gasoline?
I would be nervous with this check and check what he does not like, and if it is this coil on cylinder 1, switch it to another one, e.g. 2, and then whether a damaged coil will be signaled on the 2nd cylinder. If so, replace the coil or take a look at it and try to locate the damage - maybe it can be removed.
If the error was still signaled on 1 cylinder, I would check the spark plug on it and replace it with another one or replace it with a new one.
When you wrote about the computer, what did you mean - engine diagnostic program or gas installation?
I would first clean up the reducer to eliminate it as a secondary cause.

Quote:

today it has already started to run on gas very badly. It jerks and drives as if one cylinder is disconnected, as the petrol switch is still the same, i.e. jerks. But when I turn off the ignition and switch on petrol, it drives ok.

I had a similar situation - the cause was unknown on the gas side, it resolved spontaneously, and the service was unable to diagnose and locate it.
I would drive for a few days only on petrol - to check whether after firing on petrol it is only a temporary return to normality, or whether it lasted on petrol.

jerking, if it occurs, is only on gas. check energy is an orange engine light that, when connected to the computer, signals an error on the first cylinder. That's why I'm betting on the coil. above 15 degrees.c.) Because I drove on gas all winter and the problem did not occur even once.

At the beginning, it drives normally on gas, after some time it signals that there is no gas even though it is still in the tank, and after a few days it jerks as if it lacked full power, the car vibrates slightly and after a while it jumps that it is impossible to drive. I turn off the ignition I switch to petrol and it runs fine.
check energy is a light that is on from the moment the gas installation is connected.
That's from the previous owner.

similar symptoms occur when the liquid level in the car's cooling system is too low, which results in an underheated reducer
clean the reducer, you can do it yourself, bleed the cooling system well, top up the liquid, that's the beginning, it only costs you work

Is it normal to smell gas in the car when it runs out?

This is not normal and is not related to the amount of gas in the cylinder. This is related to the symptoms described in the first post, the causes of which cause the safety valve on the reducer to operate. To find out, put a piece of hose on the end located next to the gas outlet port from the reducer, and put the other end in a container with water and there will probably be bubbles.

what to do then?

gimak you wrote,
clean the reducer and it should be ok

OK thanks

And it's not like you have water with oil in the cylinder and the oil floats on the water and flows into the multivalve, which reads it as excessive gas leakage and closes, some of the oil gets to the reducer?

This would explain that you have 30 liters in the tank and there is no pressure and there is no gas.

You know sometimes when you refuel gas and there is a tip in the tank at the station, such crap refuels and it collects in the tank, especially in the terioid ones for the spare wheel.

I know because I had similar symptoms myself and the oil with water in the tank was enough for me to drain the oil from the reducer, replace the gas filter and clean the tank.

as colleagues wrote. Konwenter was for regeneration.