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Cast Iron Radiator Ribs Removal: Tools & Techniques for Old, Large Radiators

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  • #31 10810615
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    bob770 wrote:
    Thanks, that is, such a strong advantage of cast irons is probably only their durability. Although there is a 10-year warranty on the Brugman panel radiator.

    This is their main advantage, but not the only one (sometimes cast iron radiators that are 50, 60 or even 70 years old work). Another important feature is that they can be composed of any number of elements, i.e. the heating power can be carefully selected. Also in the case of high-pressure installations (over 6 at.), Panel radiators are not suitable, as they may not withstand (it all depends on the permissible operating pressure provided by the radiator manufacturer), while cast-iron ones withstand higher pressures (provided that the connections between the elements are sufficiently tightly twisted) and the highest pressures can withstand Favier radiators (as long as they are well welded). As for durability, for example, in Krakow there are buildings erected by the Germans during World War II with CO, in which cast iron radiators are heated to this day (back then there were such thick, very heavy ribs, with a very large capacity).
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  • #32 10811060
    Watchbuyer
    Level 12  
    Some time ago, Viadrus released a new type of STYL cast iron radiators with a smaller capacity (0.8 l).
    http://www.klimosz.pl/tl_files/klimosz/foldery_instrukcje/grzejniki_zeliwne/Styl-PL.pdf
    Only that there is nothing for free - the reduction (along with the surface) of the capacity translated into a radical reduction in power: 70 W at 75 degrees, while the cast iron TA-1 could reach the power in the range of 90-100 W (at 90 degrees) with these parameters. st. 120-130 W).
    The Czech manufacturer recommends the use of STYL radiators for condensing boilers. Honestly, with such parameters I would be afraid to use them for heating at 55/45 degrees C. You would have to really oversize and ... significantly overpay.
    And the old cast iron, if it is deaerated and desludged, works great with condensate. Tinplate and aluminum is cooler at lower temperatures than it.

    Coming back to the topic: just unscrewing the plug in the old cast iron is quite an art. And twisting a rib is a real nightmare. I am talking about my experience with it, of course.
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  • #33 10811302
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Watchbuyer wrote:
    Some time ago, Viadrus launched a new type of STYL cast iron radiators with a smaller capacity (0.8 l).
    http://www.klimosz.pl/tl_files/klimosz/foldery_instrukcje/grzejniki_zeliwne/Styl-PL.pdf
    Only that there is nothing for free - the reduction (along with the surface) of the capacity translated into a radical reduction in power: 70 W at 75 degrees, while the cast iron TA-1 could reach the power in the range of 90-100 W (at 90 degrees) with these parameters. st. 120-130 W).

    The T-1 has 125W at 90 degrees Celsius, while the TA-1 has a power of 150W at this supply temperature.
    When unscrewing the plug, you need to remember about the direction of the thread (usually blind plugs had a left-hand thread - there is a thread on the Forum about unscrewing the radiator plugs). These "Style" radiators also have a 1 '' cap, whereas 5/4 '' would normally be used.
  • #34 10811777
    bob770
    Level 10  
    Many thanks for the large dose of knowledge. Regards.
  • #36 14471781
    SnakeX
    Level 11  
    It will warm up the old topic, I have several radiators, one of them has 22 ribs, I want to divide all the radiators by 2 ribs to take for scrap, I have no key to unscrew it, it is also not possible to move these radiators to other places (too heavy), it is best to it was something to cut just the question with what? (I have an ordinary small grinder, can it help? what discs to buy?)
    There are 92 ribs in total - if one weighs about 6 kg, I have 552 kg * 0.68 PLN (1 kg) 375.36 PLN - it's even worth taking away :)
    But how to undress it? (one person)
    Or maybe a tinker and a hammer? split it like this? can whole ribs come crashing down?
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  • #37 14472766
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    The grinder should cut (sometimes they do this to take the old, large heater away for scrap). The biggest one in the picture has 25 ribs and those old ribs are thick-walled and probably weigh more than 6 kg each. You also need to add the weight of the radiator nipples). By the way, are these radiators damaged (e.g. cracked)? Maybe somewhere where you are building something or installing central heating that would come in handy (after rinsing the limescale). Cast iron radiators are durable - sometimes they work for 100 years. Unscrewing into individual ribs may be unrealistic, because after many years the threads may be completely seized.
  • #38 14472909
    SnakeX
    Level 11  
    I do not know the condition of these radiators (they have been in the basement for many years), they want PLN 0.68 per 1 kg on the scrap, no matter what form I will deliver them to them ... so I'm going to get a tinker and a hammer and hit them in the places where the ribs are joined hammer to junk ... maybe we can "split" them :)

    I would sell them for the price of scrap metal, but there are many ads on olx, but somehow there are no applicants ...
  • #39 14472945
    cirrostrato
    Level 38  
    You combine like a horse uphill, I have recently replaced cast iron radiators all over the house, some large, 22 ribs, a plumber (my son's friend) with a big hammer "disassembled" them into pieces in a few minutes, of course, then they were only suitable for scrap, cast iron is extremely brittle material.
  • #40 14474096
    SnakeX
    Level 11  
    I will do that too, a big hammer and I will pound between the ribs to separate them. I thought there was a better patent for it ...
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  • #41 14474416
    mirrzo

    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    SnakeX wrote:
    I thought there was a better patent for it ...

    BEST :)
  • #42 14516312
    SnakeX
    Level 11  
    Just for information, I wanted to add a photo of what a screw that connects two ribs looks like (I have not found such information anywhere on google, so maybe it will be useful to someone ...)

    Cast Iron Radiator Ribs Removal: Tools & Techniques for Old, Large Radiators

    Cast Iron Radiator Ribs Removal: Tools & Techniques for Old, Large Radiators

    For unscrewing, I use a majolka that fits perfectly as a "key" and I wind a wrench on the master + I put a 2-meter pipe on the wrench ... and somehow it even goes :) "

    The point is what a coupler that holds "two ribs" together looks like, this information may be useful for some ...
  • #43 21430990
    tyborowiczleszek
    Level 2  
    >>8150946 Polish can make solid contraptions Create the best to

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the removal of ribs from old cast iron radiators, addressing the tools and techniques required for this task. Users suggest creating a custom key, often resembling a large screwdriver or a hex key, to unscrew the ribs. Various methods are discussed, including heating the connections, using a hammer to break the ribs, or employing a grinder for scrap purposes. The importance of understanding thread directions (left-hand and right-hand) is emphasized, along with the necessity of using appropriate gaskets when reassembling. Users also share experiences and tips on handling seized connections and the potential need for two people to manage the effort involved. Additionally, the discussion touches on the durability and heating efficiency of cast iron radiators compared to modern alternatives.
Summary generated by the language model.
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