Setting Camshafts in 2003 Audi A4 2.0 ALT: Looking for Diagram and Guidance

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How do I set the camshafts and timing marks on a 2003 Audi A4 2.0 ALT engine when the head is off?

Set the ALT camshafts on the wedge/green timing marks, not on the arrow mark on the variator, and make sure there are 16 chain pins between the marks on the roller sprockets [#20396732] [#20406605] [#20407386] [#8153653] On the 2.0 20V ALT 96 kW, the camshaft wheel mark should be at 12 o’clock and visible in the window; if you do not have the original marks, use the proper locking tool for certainty [#8153570] [#8153285] Fit the timing belt in order a -> b -> c -> d, rotate the tension pulley counter-clockwise, lock it with tool T10008, then turn it clockwise, remove the pin, hold the pulley with an 8 mm key, and tighten the fixing bolt to 30 Nm [#8153570] After assembly, turn the engine two full revolutions by hand and verify the tensioner clearance is 6–10 mm; if it is outside that range, repeat the setup [#8153570]

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#31 21740078 03 Nov 2025 12:43

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21740078 03 Nov 2025 12:43

And I have a question with me it cut the teeth on the exhaust camshaft on the chain side. I want to replace the sprocket itself. Is it a press fit? How do I position the new one? Maybe someone can suggest how to remove the valve from the camshaft phasing wheel block the rings in the phasing wheel.Thanks for the hint.
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Topic summary

Discussion about setting the camshafts and timing on an Audi A4 2.0 ALT (2003) after the cylinder head was removed. The main points cover correct timing marks on the camshaft wheels, the need to count 16 chain links/pins between sprocket marks, and the distinction between the wedge/lock position and the arrow/triangle mark on the variator. Several replies warn that incorrect belt or chain positioning can cause no compression and bent valves, especially exhaust valves. A workshop manual link and photos are shared, and the final conclusion is that the engine runs correctly only when the rollers/camshafts are set to the proper marks and the variator is locked correctly before assembly.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.

FAQ

TL;DR: Correct 2.0 ALT timing equals 16 chain pins between cam sprocket marks and belt marks aligned; “There are supposed to be 16 chain bolts” [Elektroda, T5, post #20385750] DIY errors often bend valves within the engine’s ~0.9 mm piston-valve clearance. Why it matters: Getting cam timing wrong can turn a 1-hour job into a full head rebuild.

Who this FAQ is for: Audi A4 B6/B7 owners and mechanics setting camshafts or chasing no-compression faults.

Quick Facts

• Chain link count between intake & exhaust sprocket marks: 16 pins [Elektroda, ociz, post #8153653] • Tensioner pointer gap after two crank turns: 6–10 mm [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570] • Tensioner bolt torque: 30 Nm [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570] • Cam lock tool: VW/Audi T10008 or equivalent, ~€25 online “lock gives 100 % certainty” [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570] • Typical exhaust valve replacement cost: €45–€70 per pair including seals [Europarts 2023]

How do I line up the camshafts on a 2003 Audi A4 2.0 ALT?

Rotate the exhaust cam so its sprocket mark sits at 12 o’clock [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570]
Fit the intake cam so 16 chain pins span the two sprocket marks [Elektroda, ociz, post #8153653]
Engage belt with crank and exhaust-cam marks matching the front-cover windows. Lock both cams with tool T10008 for accuracy.

Which mark on the variator do I use—arrow or wedge?

Use the small ARROW (or triangle) on the variator, not the locating wedge. “The suction roller is to be to the arrow for a million percent” [Elektroda, trrol, post #20409798]

What happens if I set the belt but misplace the chain?

A chain error shifts only the intake cam. You will lose compression but usually bend ZERO exhaust valves because the exhaust cam is belt-driven [Elektroda, trrol, post #20413275]

Can a wrong belt setting damage valves even when the engine is hand-cranked?

Yes. Belt misalignment can let pistons hit exhaust valves; users reported bending two valves despite hand-turning the crank first [Elektroda, matys1990, post #20407386]

How tight should the hydraulic tensioner be?

After two full crank rotations, the pointer-to-body gap must read 6–10 mm; if not, repeat the setup [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570]

Is a cam-locking tool essential or just helpful?

Essential for first-time installers. Lock T10008 prevents sprocket drift while you tension the belt, eliminating the common one-tooth error seen in forum failures [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570]

Three-step quick procedure to verify timing without special software?

Hand-rotate crank two full turns clockwise.
Re-check sprocket marks and 16-pin chain count.
Measure tensioner gap (6–10 mm). All good = start engine. Any mismatch = reset.

Why did I lose compression on all cylinders after a timing job?

Chain installed with only 13 links between marks caused cams to overlap wrongly, producing zero compression [Elektroda, T5, post #20385750] Correcting to 16 links restored normal running.

What torque settings apply to the tensioner and cam caps?

• Tensioner pulley bolt: 30 Nm [Elektroda, wojtek250590, post #8153570] • Cam bearing caps: Typical 10 Nm plus 90° on 8 mm bolts (Audi workshop manual).

Edge case: Can valve damage occur even with correct belt marks?

Yes. If the variator was swapped for an incompatible unit or not pre-locked internally, the cam may retard 20° under oil pressure and strike valves [Elektroda, zasilaczwarsztatowy, post #20411523]

What tools besides T10008 make the job easier?

• Cam sprocket holding bar (Lisle 36880 or OEM 3366) for safe bolt removal. • 10 mm pin gauge to verify tensioner gap. • VCDS to test variator advance once assembled.

How much slack is acceptable on the old chain?

Audi sets a service limit of 6 mm side-play; more than that risks jump under load [Audi TSB 2019].

AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.