How to drive a diesel engine? What kind of riding does he like?

Question

Hello colleagues. I am not an experienced driver and in my life I only had a short pleasure of driving a diesel once, unfortunately I did not think about the characteristics of this drive! Now for about 2 months I have been the owner of an abscess 1.9 TDI myself and I would like to dispel my and...

bocian21a · Answer

Hello friend. There are different opinions about diesel driving. If you want to drive economically, you shouldn't spin it at high revs. The limit is the moment when the turbine starts to work louder and what goes with it you start to feel a surge of power. So this is probably the best time to change gear, but you have to feel it because each car is different. And if you want to feel the power and acceleration of your car, change the gear at a higher revs and you will immediately feel the surge of power and hear the turbine. Remember not to shoot it too high in winter, up to 2,000 higher, only when it warms up. In my opinion, this is the best way to drive a diesel engine :) PS What kind of car is it?

martinb33 · Answer

PS What kind of car is it? [/ Quote] Seat Leon 1.9 TDI 90km 2000 I have such a habit that I turn it to about 2,000 revolutions and I try to drive as well, then the engine works quietly and culturally, but I don't know what is good for a diesel!

excray · Answer

It depends on what car. I am turning the Ceed to 2500 and just changing gear but I drive rather dynamically. My average is 5.5 / 100 but I drive a lot on long distances.

kamil907 · Answer

Unfortunately, I have an ordinary diesel without turbo, so I still have to drive with my right foot in the floor to get it somehow, but thanks to this, people rarely overtake me, despite the low power. So far, literally nothing has happened to the engine for three years, it does not take any oil at all, and my fuel consumption is at the level of 6l. Of course, I do not recommend you to drive like this because you will quickly finish the turbine and then the engine. VW engines are not as durable as those older Peugeot units.

Mihas66 · Answer

Naturally aspirated diesels or turbo on an ordinary WG turbine, we shoot as we like, i.e. even up to 1500 rpm, but from time to time it should be reworked so that the soot from the exhaust flew out ... driving and you will have to clean it ... Therefore, to sum up, each engine should be dragged to sections at least every 10km for health, because the unused organ disappears; p As a curiosity, I can say that in my astra 1.7dtl I drove my grandfather for a long time to burn as little as possible, but then I had 30km section of which 5km around the city and non-stop shoes to the floor and catching 170km / h and the effect was that the soot in the exhaust began to burn out and a beam of sparks flew from the exhaust pipe so that it looked like the car was burning - people's faces must have been cool, like I was ahead of them ...

bixmixer · Answer

TDI is, of course, after ignition, a moment for the oil to reach all components, then we move and gently with the gas while the engine is cold and when it warms up, the gas is fully available according to the preferences and needs. Diesels like longer distances to keep the engine warmed up. Before extinguishing, let the turbine slow down for a while, and if after a long route and a very turbo hot moment, extend the moment so that the oil cools the turbine because it is very hot on the exhaust manifold and after it is turned off it would fry Added after 45 [minutes]: I will add that your TDI-k does not have a diesel particulate filter, so it is not so sensitive to underheating. As for the revolutions, when you drive slowly around 1500-2000 per gear change, it is OK to feel it after the engine is running. I have the same engine in VW Bora

martinb33 · Answer

So I should also switch it to 4,000 rpm every 10-20km? My heart aches when he howls at high speed; D

boe666 · Answer

see engine characteristics. If the engine is warm, shift to higher gears when you reach the revolutions where it still has power (about 3000), and reduce when you go below 1200 revolutions. and that's it. 1200-3200 is a range that is different for each car.

ogur3k · Answer

I support everyone who spoke, I was tired of a few diesels how cold it is gently with the gas, how warm you can eat at will. If you are eco-minded, remember not to bother him with too low revolutions, apparently the shells do not like it very much and the pistons are getting nuts overtaking, climbing uphill proposes to reduce and not throw the poor thing from 1500 revolutions. Sometimes it is worth chasing spiders out of the pipe, as it is called in my area in fact, this applies to every car, be it a pf 126p or a mercedes 'barrel' w123 with diesel.

Anonymous · Answer

And absolutely not step on the gas until it stops at low revs (around 1500) and high gear.

ogur3k · Answer

In fact, I described the same thing ... If you have a fixed route, e.g. to work, you will work out the economy on this route and no one will tell you to do anyway a little trial, counting your fuel consumption and you will be the master of your car I drove under the supervision of the car owner, everything according to his guidelines and still the car burned half a liter more than the owner

skorpion1272 · Answer

It is true that you have to drive into each car, everyone is different and you cannot compare it with others. Still, the key is to handle the gas delicately and sensibly. When accelerating, it is better to gently add gas than to push it to the stop - it will have a positive effect on the durability of the engine, but will also reduce fuel consumption. Dude, the engine should never, as you call it, puff as much as you want, even when it's warm. Sooner or later, it will have consequences anyway, and it's not nice.

ogur3k · Answer

In theory, when should an engine die after failing? I did 70kkm on my own, as they say, with gas in the floor, often a gear change before the section, currently on the 230kkm alarm clock from the very beginning on gas. Engine condition? It never happened that it did not fire, it never caused the slightest problem. At 15kkm, it takes about 700ml of oil. Full synthetic. It's a healthy engine for me. The cup will not knock, the valve will not tap. Just the base: don't press against the floor like cold the scream will start soon: Such a course and synthetic ?! It should be mineral a long time ago! if someone proves it to me, i'm sending a six pack of weapons for adults, of course

Anonymous · Answer

It is actually another myth with this synthetics. My Sierra, with a twenty-two-year-old OHC, also rides synthetic - and what? And nothing, all the time. :) As for the bump, I think it depends on the engine. For some, such a slamming is normal driving, while another engine will handle it worse. It also depends on taking care of the condition and quality of the fluids.

ogur3k · Answer

I think that the author of the topic got the answer to the questions that haunt him, if not, let's discuss further I suspect that since he asks about driving style, he really cares about his car and wants the best for him I do not need to mention the oil, oil filter, air and fuel filter, I can suggest replacing the coolant and brake fluid, in particular, the cost is not high and this is the absolute basis for safety. Especially when ABS is doing! Either my car is a miracle or the little Japanese hands are capable. Mazda 626 1.8l DOHC 16V 90KM with sequence from birth. Cut off at ~ 6750, who of you recently chased the spiders away? It is very possible that a European / Korean / American would die while driving ... No more melting, maybe the mod won't strangle me.

ejdiaj · Answer

I drove a Mazda 323F DITD 90KM, now Premacy DITD 101KM, I move on the roads at a speed of 80-110 km / h, I change gears at about 2000-2200 rpm (the turbine starts to limp at about 2000 rpm) and I must admit that it is quite enough for smooth movement. Fuel consumption is also satisfactory for the Mazda 323F 4.7 l / 100 km and for the Mazda Premacy 5.44 l / 100 km, and the truth is that you have to feel every car yourself.

burza11 · Answer

when it comes to economy, the fact is lower revs and the highest gear for common sense, but think about what the turbine comes to life when the auto mule goes to revolutions, it starts to work properly to ~ 2k rpm, the engine has insufficient air flow, the exhaust gases have much greater temperature and the turbine is boiling, the turbodiesel engine should operate in the RPM range identical to the RPM range of the correct operation of the turbine, i.e. around 1900 to 2700 rpm, of course, it depends on the car. I will give an example, driving an Iveco Daily in Eu, mulching it for a longer time up below the TS temp operating range, the coolant grows quickly, also holding it up in the correct range (when the turbo is blowing) the temperature is unchanged, often in trucks on the tachometer there is a field marked in green and this is the range of maximum turbo performance, according to the manufacturers, driving in this RPM range is the most economical, efficient and the motor lasts longer, they do not suck it out of their finger ...

skorpion1272 · Answer

I agree with the previous speaker, everyone says not to trample the car too much, but you cannot use the lowest revs possible again. I always say that you can't spin the engine too much, but it must have its speed. So if the turbine turns on on average at about 2000 rpm, let's not go below this value, but use the range of about 2000 rpm to 3000-3500 rpm. Then we will drive the most economical and it will be healthy for the engine.

Meteo33 · Answer

Could you write something more why?

burza11 · Answer

Just read my previous posts,

Anonymous · Answer

It's easy. The engine is then heavily loaded, which has a negative impact on the 'bottom' of the engine, i.e. pistons, connecting rod.

Anonymous · Answer

I would be discussing it here, because in every truck, tractor and other vehicles the engine works mainly at this speed and has a huge service life. In terms of the actual mechanical loads (forces in the connecting rod, etc.), these are greatest when the engine produces maximum torque. And the faster the shaft turns, the greater the inertia forces become. As long as the engine does not jerk, nothing bad is happening to him. Unless he runs out of oil pressure ...

Anonymous · Answer

Yes, but in trucks you have a smaller RPM range. There, 1500 can be called average revolutions, while in passenger diesel engines, 1500 is the lower range. Anyway, what is the economic sense of such a drive - the shed shakes and resonates, acceleration is zero, fuel consumption is higher.

burza11 · Answer

Did I say that the truck also drives from 1800 to 3000rpm? I said that the RPM range when the truck's engine has the greatest power and torque is the same as the range where the compressor can be heard, I didn't mark the exact RPM range in the truck example. And with the resonance shaking it is right, with the rest, as I have already said, engineers in many diesels have marked the range from 2 to 3,000 rpm as green, econo etc. for a reason. Of course, all my statements are geared towards the turbo diesel.

palekkk · Answer

Diesel obviously does not like to be dragged on, but to save, you do not have it .. As I drove it is so 3.5 THOUSAND TO 4 ECH ... Diesels are now fast, they drive well .. It depends what motor, for example, on audi 2.5 tdi, you have to be careful because the timing is very expensive.

Anonymous · Answer

Do you know the phenomenon of aquaplaning? This is when you enter a puddle at high speed, so high that the tire will not have time to drain the water. Then you glide over the ice, most often into a ditch. A similar phenomenon, but very beneficial, occurs on the engine bearings, with the participation of oil. The higher the rotational speed, the better. In a rapidly rotating plain bearing, this aquaplaning also occurs and the rotating parts do not come into contact with each other. In spinning slowly? Not necessarily that cool, the oil has time to escape. On top of that, there is another problem. Idle usually means you are using a higher gear than you are driving at the indicated RPM. So there is a greater stress in the engine (because the gear ratio is smaller). Just such a simple example: each of us has ridden a bicycle with gears and knows what it is like to go slower, e.g. up a hill with a higher gear ratio. And so: - there is no good lubrication, because the engine turns slowly. So (1) Less oil pressure and (2) less aquaplaning. - the shaft (3) presses more strongly on the bearings, because the gear ratio is smaller (higher gear), which intensifies the effect of factors 1 and 2 (oil leakage from the bearing). - diesels equipped with a dual mass wheel are also not happy with the above This way you will quickly smash the shells. I do not know about diesel, but I try not to destroy the gasoline engine with the revolutions below 2000. The truck has one that has completely different gear ratios, and two different engine bearings, where such aquaplaning occurs earlier. To accelerate a truck weighing 7t to 100km / h. (tractor only) you should change gears at least 6 times. In a passenger car, gear 2 is enough (sometimes you may need 3) and you can reach 100 km / h

jhosef · Answer

I fully support. I am for golf MK3 Td, 5w40 is pouring on a mechanical pump, the mileage is up to 300 kkm. When the guy poured it into my engine, he said, it's your responsibility. And texts: rinse the engine and gaskets (as if they were not made of rubber). Oil is the most important. VW standard for VP 505.00, for PD (unit injectors) 505.01. If you have them, you must pour 505.01 oil. Apparently, it is about high mechanical pressures in unit injectors. My colleague Mihas66 is right. If the engine has a variable geometry turbine, you have to give it a blow. It is a pity to spend a few hundred zlotys on cleaning. I personally shoot my turbine because that's what it is for. Most often slightly over 3 k, sometimes up to 4.

japolzwkz · Answer

I drove 3 types of naturally aspirated diesels, 1.9 tdi, 2.0 tdi and they all drive similarly. 1. you warm the candles 2. you fire up, wait from 1 to 5 minutes (depending on the season) 3.When the engine is cold, do not run more than 2000 rpm 4.on a warm engine up to 4000 thousand (if you want it to run for a long time) 5.be careful with the turbines, with a hard drive they quickly start whistling and then need regeneration (PLN 1000) or replacement for (new 3 weeks) 6.after driving, wait from 1 minute to 5 minutes (depending on how long you have stopped) before shutting down the engine. 7. take care of oil and filters 8. refuel regular diesel at famous gas stations at this point i have diesel with dsg and the computer that changes gears, I think it is not wrong You put in gear 1 for a moment to start 2 to max 2000 thousand turnover 3 to max up to 3000 rpm 4 etc as you feel brake the engine at medium revs, about 1500 rpm keep the turnover around 2000 up the hill every car is different, you have to feel it, turn off the radio and listen to the engine, you gotta feel it

pablolinda · Answer

I fully support my colleague's statement that the turbine is to use it and it cannot become overgrown with dirt by not using it. And it is the turbine that increases the economy of the engine. If someone changes gears at 2,000 rpm, do not be surprised that then his engine is not powerful. And if he does not want to use a turbine and he has enough power without recharging, he should buy a car without a turbo. I will give a specific example of my father-in-law Corsa-C Diesel 1.3 without turbo on the 300km route with 2 people on board took 4.9l / 100 my modeno mk3 2.0 tdci 115km on the same route took 5.1l / 100 with 4 people. I change the gears so that the speed after changing to a higher gear does not drop after the turbine starts lower, i.e. 1900 rpm. This probably speaks for itself and then I feel that I am going and such sawing from 1500 rpm misses the goal of economic driving, so it can only be done with Go downhill. Anyway, it can be heard after the engine is buzzing, it means that it is too hard for him, and usually it is like that until the turbine starts to charge. At low revs, you can only use the first 2 gears, and not always, because in my bottom, on the second, it accelerates less. To sum up, in the cold one I change gears at about 2400, then after the gear change, the revs do not drop below 1800, in the warm one I change at 2800 and higher as needed. In addition, one of the principles of eco driving says that the desired speed should be achieved as quickly as possible, then it is most economical, and not such slow acceleration at low revs causes even higher fuel consumption. These recommendations are also used with these rotations on a cold engine, not entirely, but it is also a matter of what the cephaloid wrote about.

How to drive a diesel engine? What kind of riding does he like?

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