VW Golf IV 1.9 TDI 101KM 2001: Loss of Power & Cutting Out at High Speeds - Cold Engine Issue

Hello, I have a Golf IV 1.9 TDI 101KM 2001.
While driving, not always, but very often, the car loses power, most often at speeds of about 110-120 km / h. Sometimes also when driving slower. In order for the car to start working normally, the engine must be turned off and restarted, then it is usually ok.
What could be the reason for this behavior of the car?
Below is the link to the logs I did:
vaglog.rtnet.pl/toff_168788.html

I would like to add that the situation most often takes place on a cold engine.
Unfortunately, when making logs, everything was fine and the car did not cut off.

Perhaps it is the so-called not lauf.

Something wrong with boost pressure. You would have to check whether the pear is under pressure after starting the engine, or if it is tight. If it will be ok, take out the turbo and watch it on the table.

PS What engine code?

I forgot to add, the computer was reading error 17964 - Boost pressure - regulation limit not reached

AXR engine

So turbo with variable geometry. Check the vacuum as I wrote earlier, the pear or the tight. If it will be correct, it will be a turbo for cleaning / regeneration, because the adjustment bar has probably been in the resting position (exactly close to it) or it does not go to the full extent.

PS This engine now does not develop series torque from 1800-2500 RPM. Only from 3000 is the moment as it should be.

When I unhooked the tube flying to the pear, marked with an arrow in the photo, I was able to suck in air from it.

After starting the engine, the bar did not move until the gas was added.

Pull up the barbell right after igniting the smells. If he doesn't, it's either hard to walk or weak vacuum. I would bet on a weak vacuum. So pump failure or some leakage (on the lines or in some element). Anyway, it fits the logs as the pump has a higher speed, creates a higher vacuum and only then pulls the barbell and loads correctly.

I checked the tube going to the pear and it's good, and is it blowing at it or sucking air all the time, so isn't it a broken coo in this case?

So it is supposed to be tight for replacement.

Well, you are to blame for all the fuss.

Do you read with understanding? The author blows the hose and you order the coo to be replaced. Tell me why?

Blowing or suction does not matter, the pear must be airtight. The vacuum pump is not large and has a low capacity. In addition, the efficiency depends on the revolutions of the camshaft (in this case), i.e. with a half revolutions of the shaft. A small hole and negative pressure drops to a level such that it is not able to control the turbo and EGR (high control of the N75 and the EGR valve at nominal openings). With the turbo, it looks like a badly adjusted barbell in the logs. Turbo rises only when the vacuum pump creates a greater vacuum and this requires an increase in its efficiency, i.e. at higher revolutions.

PS To the author, after removing it, check again if the pear cable is not leaky, i.e. connect the tube to the pear and suck it in. The bar should retract and stay in place until the tube is let in.

I replaced the pear with another, used one, the pear was the same but had a longer pull rod, so I moved the pull rod from my old pear to this one. Set with a caliper in the same way as the previous one. The wires going to the pear are good, the n75 valve is good, I checked another one, and mine in a different turtleneck. And now, after replacing the pear, it looks like there is power at the start, but it cuts off every time at higher revolutions. For example, in 3rd gear at 3000 revolutions there is a complete cut-off and even restarting does not help.

I would take a closer look at the flow meter and check whether, for example, the vacuum pump connection is ok.

jamming blades in the turbine that direct the flow of exhaust gas to the turbine wheel
you have to take it out, disassemble and clean the variable geometry or recondition it.

Because when a coo blows into coats, this is how the car drives. Do bp and it will be known.

Check the vacuum connection of the pump, for sure there is play and it is losing pressure. It's best to stick it with good glue.

Hello.
There was a problem with the engine in my golf III 1997 1.9 TDI 90HP. While driving the Tri-City ring road, I noticed that I had a problem with overtaking trucks. In 4th gear, the maximum RPM is 2400 and in 5th only 2200 and the speed on a straight line is 120 km / h. When the engine has an optimal operating temperature of about 90 degrees, it turns in very slowly. A real "mule" and a blockage made of my golf. When it's cold, it turns better, but also cuts off in 4th and 5th gear. Oil is lost and no leakage. I took off the upper intercooler rubber hose on a cold engine and there was oil in it. It seems to me that a lot, a few mm on the finger, more than on the dipstick. I took up the intercooler itself and unscrewed the lower cable at the intercooler and there was also oil in the same amount. After driving 2000 km, I have to add almost 0.5l of oil, not smoking. There is a smell of burning oil in the exhaust gas, but there is no light smoke. What could be happening ??
The mechanics say leave it and see. It's best to leave 3,000 more and replace everything. Is the turbo ending up because I'm worried about the oil in the interconnects, they should be dry? Connect to the computer and see if there are errors
Please help.

When it cuts off suddenly, the turbo probably does not cope anymore and it pours oil. Check for errors, but there will probably be undercharging.

Ok, I'm going to check the computer.

I was connected to the computer and showed the flow meter !!! How does this relate to the dying oil from my engine and that cutting off the turbine?

But what error code?

And linda because I didn't ask. He told me the flow meter needed to be replaced and that's it. What code it has not seen. What could the codes be with this problem? I have to look for a specialist in this field because the latter diagnostician is a beginner.