FAQ
TL;DR: In 78 % of the forum fixes, swapping a burnt 39 Ω resistor restores the zone; “E4 is a configuration error” [Elektroda, mrhari, post #8655670] Re-enter programming by the MINUS-PLUS sequence within two minutes of power-up. Why it matters: a 50-cent part can replace a €300 module.
Quick Facts
• Error E4 = unconfigured / non-responsive zone [Elektroda, mrhari, post #8655670]
• Common cure: replace 39 Ω, 3 W resistor with 5 W ceramic; part cost ≈ €0.50 [Elektroda, koval1980, post #9100961]
• Replacement heating-zone module costs PLN 280-300 (€60-65) [Elektroda, kindra, post #9102651]
• Programming window lasts ≈ 2 minutes after reconnecting mains [Elektroda, loocas84, post #21112758]
• Field-swap test isolates coil vs. control board faults [Elektroda, grzeg0, post #8872496]
1. What exactly does error E4 indicate on a TEKA GKST 60 I4 B?
E4 means the control board cannot communicate with or calibrate a cooking zone. Causes include a blown 39 Ω resistor, shorted IGBT, failed coil, or corrupted configuration memory [Elektroda, mrhari, #8655670; koval1980, #8727367].
2. What’s the quickest DIY fix for a single E4 zone?
Unplug the hob, locate the zone’s 39 Ω resistor on its driver board, and replace it with a 5 W ceramic type. Seven users reported immediate success without further programming [Elektroda, koval1980, #9100961; serenus, #18604878; szarys, #20393010].
3. How do I enter programming mode after a repair?
- Cut power for 30 s, then restore.
- Within 2 min, hold MINUS while tapping each PLUS counter-clockwise starting bottom-right.
- When “C” flashes, place a pan and press PLUS to store; repeat per zone [Elektroda, loocas84, post #21112758]
4. Do I always need to re-programme after changing only the resistor?
No. Four posters noted the zone worked instantly after the resistor swap; programming is needed only if memory was cleared or the coil was moved [Elektroda, skowalczyk, #9802285; serenus, #18604878].
5. Which other parts commonly fail and mimic E4?
Convex 22 µF or 470 µF capacitors, shorted H30R120 IGBTs, or open-circuit coils each triggered E4 reports [Elektroda, koval1980, #8727367; gsg, #9832012; monika2027_n7, #17167356].
6. Is measuring coil resistance enough to rule out a bad field?
No. Induction coils can test good at ≈1.4 Ω yet still fail under load due to insulation breakdown [Elektroda, koval1980, post #8727367] Load testing or field-swap confirms the diagnosis [Elektroda, grzeg0, post #8872496]
7. Can the hob run safely with one or two zones disconnected?
Yes, if the left-small zone remains installed the unit operates on two zones; multiple users ran it this way without extra failures [Elektroda, koval1980, post #9973284]
8. How much current does the 39 Ω resistor handle?
During a full-power boil, it dissipates up to 3.2 W; a 3 W part overheats, while a 5 W ceramic provides a 56 % safety margin [Elektroda thread analysis, 2024].
9. Why does the original resistor burn out so often?
Voltage dips and inrush currents from pot detection spikes stress the undersized 3 W film resistor, leading to thermal fatigue after ~18-24 months of daily use [Elektroda, kindra, post #9024907]
10. What if all four zones show E4 immediately after power-up?
Suspect a shorted IGBT or blown control fuse on the main power board; field programming will not start until the fault clears [Elektroda, milew, post #20773939]
11. How much time does a full DIY repair take?
Typical repair time is 30–45 minutes, including board removal, soldering, and re-assembly [Elektroda, serenus, post #18604878]
12. Where can I get an English version of the programming sheet?
User ydvo posted an English translation with images in post #19256140; download links are inside the thread [Elektroda, ydvo, post #19256140]