Connecting Hammered Earth Electrode: Step-by-Step Guide for Rod Installation & GSU Connection

Hello,
I would like to learn from you how to make an impact earth electrode, I mean exactly what to do after driving the rod into the ground, what exactly its connection to GSU should look like, what to make it, etc. Please give me some tips.

After driving in, you should take measurements and you can connect, for example, to a clamp. [/ img]

You can sleep on it.

Mod. ROBSON33
Regulations 15
Please correct the post without deleting the above post.

Do as your predecessors wrote.

Below I present a photo (this is what I have) of just such an earth electrode - a pin, which is connected with a clamp to the hoop (the old rim is also welded to it). The clamp is preserved with such a black glue - I don't remember the name:

Hello.

JohnySpZOO wrote:

The clamp is preserved with such a black glue - I don't remember the name:

It is probably about abizol.

It is best to check the manufacturer of the earth electrode that you use and what is in the assortment for it, e.g. Galmar http://www.galmar.pl/Galmar-Uziemienia.pdf
The best combination is thermite welding, but the most expensive in terms of equipping with tools (molds) and the thermite material itself

ele_pp wrote:

Hello.

JohnySpZOO wrote:

The clamp is preserved with such a black glue - I don't remember the name:

It is probably about abizol.

Or asphalt varnish.

And when you put the earth electrode in and want to connect it to the rail, you can, for example, lead a hoop iron in the outer wall, make a box and insert a hoop iron into it, make a hole in the hoop, lead a rope, e.g. 16mm2 or thicker, tighten the eyelet and screw it and it will be a connector like you will have to do some measurement, you can disconnect there then, and the other end of the cable to the balance rail in the building. You can also introduce a hoop to the equipotential rail and make a control joint in it, you can twist the hoops together, or you can pull the galvanized wire from the joint to the equipotential rail. There are many solutions.

Thank you for your help, but tell me more, can I connect this earth electrode immediately with a rope, or does it have to be this hoop? Can the GSU be in the main switchboard of the building?

With a cooper, or galvanized wire (this is how I saw), you pull the hoop from what you drove (fixing it with the earth electrode, colleagues wrote above) to the box on the outer wall of the building are special for that with markings and there you can make a connection (it will be a control terminal) rope hoops and pull the rope to the switchboard for the PE rail If you do not have the option of welding, you need to look at the manufacturer of the earth electrode and he must have some clamps and you can either make a hoop or galvanized wire.
The mere connection of a copper wire or wire to the earth electrode will not be permanent. The connection must be solid and have the lowest possible resistance to connections.

Hello!

Half of the world is acting in what we consider impermanent. Do we want to prove by force that we are the chosen people?
I will present how this issue was resolved in Ireland, Great Britain and probably in the countries that were former British colonies.

A 3 or 6 foot long point earth electrode (approximately 1m or 2m) is embedded in front of the building, most often from the front. A can of a specific color is placed flush with the surface,

to which the earth electrode and a copper wire 10mm2 (formerly) 16mm2 (today) enter from the bottom. The link, of course, has a known color. It is usually placed in a PVC pipe. The connected one is made with a loop clamp. On the other hand, protection against the influence of moisture is achieved by insulating the connection with DENSO tape or the entire box is filled with a special PIRELLI compound used for this purpose. The other end of the cable is put on the PE rail of the switching station. Due to the fact that all other installations, such as water, sewage, etc., are made of non-conductive materials, GSW is not generally performed here. This role is played by the PE busbar in the switching station.
Of course, this is a solution used in single-family houses.
In other facilities, the solution is similar, but the materials are different.

In other words, dubious facade decorations in the form of allegedly necessary boxes, clamps, etc. are not needed at all.

But not on the Vistula River.

Thank you for your help, now I know how to do it and tell me if I can do this whole grounding bar in the main switchboard?

Hello!

The number of equipotential cables may be a problem, which can cause some confusion.
One should also take into account the possibility and, above all, the ease of performing grounding control measurements.

in fact, the house I think about has very few equalizing wires, and the board is in a good place to bring them because it is close to all the elements to connect them, so I just mean are there any regulations that would prohibit this?

The equipotential bar in the switchgear, taking into account the proximity of equipotential bonding within this switchgear, is not a mistake. You can always use an additional earthing strip in the switchgear intended only for equipotential bonding. Then, for example, equipotential connections from the boiler room, bathroom and kitchen are in one place on one rail. Remember about the cross-sections of these connections.

Hello!

Personally, I am not convinced of stuffing GSW in the switchboard.
Just as the earth electrode should be an artificial earth electrode and not a foundation reinforcement or a water pipe, the GSW should be an independent element. But that's just my opinion and I realize that you can't generalize.
However, it should be taken into account that such elements are manufactured.

Only that everything described by kkas12 is a poor WORKING LEVEL, which in 10-12 years (when the zinc disappears) will start to rust, thus increasing its already high resistance. When digging copper earth electrodes, other metals in its vicinity rust in turn. I do not recommend lightning rods on something like these photos from the UK.

Hello!

What is a "poor WORKING LEVEL"?
A rod about 3/4 inch in diameter will surely survive you, my friend.
If the resistance is high, it must necessarily be low.
So what does your colleague think is high resistance and how low or appropriate?
Who wrote about the lightning protection?
What does it mean "I do not recommend"?

I am wondering about what my colleague kkas12 described that they directly connect the cable to the earth electrode and is it something like in this video (from 55 seconds).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuUIz5b2eQU&feature=related
A pit in it, an earth electrode driven in and a cord in a pipe?
I have not encountered anything like this in my life and it made me curious because it looks like a very simple job than pulling a hoop, but I am not convinced that I am worried about durability and whether the line will be enough.
Will something like that work when using B + C protectors?
Is the 16mm2 line section not enough in this case?
Does a colleague use it in our country? How long does it last? Does it require additional inspection and maintenance?

What is a "poor WORKING LEVEL"?
A rod about 3/4 inch in diameter will surely survive you, my friend.
If the resistance is high, it must necessarily be low.
So what does your colleague think is high resistance and how low or appropriate?
Who wrote about the lightning protection?
What does it mean "I do not recommend"?

1) Yes - poor. For example, in the case of frequently occurring sandy soil, one pin in no rain can easily measure> 30 ohms. Two or more pins spaced several meters apart will significantly improve the earth electrode resistance.
2) A rod with a diameter of even 2 inches will survive not one friend, but if it becomes covered with rust, the resistance of the earth electrode will increase.
3) Expand - "If the resistance is high, it must be low as well."
4) I will not refer to the standards, Musiał or Markiewicz. I have read many opinions that for the overvoltage to work, the resistance of the earth electrode should not exceed 10 ohms. In addition, (especially in stormy spring weather in our country) an earth electrode with such resistance should pass the test with a lightning conductor. According to For me, low resistance is a resistance not exceeding 10 ohms.
5) Nobody wrote, but if there is an earth electrode, you can make it something more than just a more reliable operation of the differential.
6) "I do not recommend" means that there are different and better solutions to a given problem. The method described by a colleague is used, but I do not include it among the former and therefore I do not recommend it.

Hello!

Today, in the era of foundation earth electrodes, this method is a thing of the past.
In Ireland, no one had the idea of imposing the mandatory use of lightning arresters always and everywhere. This is a normal country, whether someone likes it or not.
Of course, lightning arresters (surge arresters) are used, but where their use is justified. Schools, offices, banks, etc.
In Poland, I have not had the opportunity to apply this solution and to tell you the truth, I do not know if I will.
The cross-section must be adapted to the cross-section of the PEN. A colleague can always inflate by one degree.
In Ireland, no one measures it in private construction, and in twenty-year-old public buildings, the technical death of electrical installations occurs and they are completely replaced.
Such a renovation of the school with a complete cut in the trunk of fifteen to twenty-year-old installations and the assembly of a new one is the holiday period.
Two and a half months to three.
So no one worries about the durability, or rather longevity, of this type of earth electrodes.

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

A pit in it, an earth electrode driven in and a cord in a pipe?
I have not experienced anything like this in my life and it made me curious because it looks like a very simple job than pulling a hoop, but I am not convinced that I am worried about durability and whether the line will be enough.

Recently, we have made similar earth electrodes at the construction site.

We hammered the rods, welded a piece of the hoop to them, then drilled a hole, screwed the end of the pressed grounding wire with a screw and secured it with grease.

Hello!

How do you see my friend nagash1 the method you do not recommend is already used in the country. Whether you like it or not, we are late in implementing Western solutions, not ours. In my opinion, designers and supervision inspectors have the right to use the word "recommend" or not.

Of course there is not only a different solution, but also a better one. It is an artificial foundation earth electrode.
Personally, I am not a supporter of the use of lightning arresters (surge arresters) always and everywhere. I consider the existence of this provision to be the result of pressure from their producers' lobbies. But this is only my personal opinion, so I do not write that I do not recommend using them.
However, I agree that in some situations they should be used and then the earth resistance should have the appropriate value, i.e. less than 10 ohms.
But if they are not, the GSW grounding resistance is of no importance in terms of electric shock protection.

Quote:

Nobody wrote, but if there is a grounding electrode, you can make it something more than just a more reliable operation of the differential.

What does it mean more reliable operation ?
Will the RCD not work reliably without the earth electrode?
If there is an earth electrode, do we have to make a lightning conductor?
If there is no lightning conductor and the power is supplied through a cable line, is the lack of lightning arresters a threat?

1) I know that it is used in the country. I saw such pins, for example, at a middle school. Pins, 4 pieces, were stuck about 3/4 into the ground and an 8 mm wire was put on the clamp as the conductors from the lightning conductor. Someone should have designed it, measured it and received it. So when recommending to "recommend" people "with papers" it is worth pausing and using common sense. Cannot tester recommend something?

2) The foundation earth electrode is not only not always in the building but, what's worse, it is not always made in newly constructed buildings. You have to dig.

3) In April 2007, lightning struck my friend's house. It had a lightning conductor so the fire did not occur. However, the entire electrical installation and the electronics connected to it were damaged. Since then, I have been offering surge arresters and good earth electrodes to everyone with whom I install.

4) The GSW resistance is irrelevant from the point of view of electric shock protection? In TT too?

And please give me and myself a list of questions like this: "If there is an earth electrode, do we have to make a lightning rod?"

Hello!

Quote:

Pins, 4 pieces, were stuck about 3/4 into the ground and an 8 mm wire was put on the clamp as the conductors from the lightning conductor. Someone should have designed it, measured it and received it. So when recommending people to "recommend" people "with papers" it is worth pausing and using common sense. Cannot tester recommend something?

What does it mean stuck about 3/4 into the ground ?
And what wire is to be led to the control joint placed in the manhole at ground level, since the above-ground part was made with a wire of this diameter?
How can you be sure that this installation is not designed?
I understand that my colleague questions such an increasingly used solution.
So please give me some specific and credible reasons

Quote:

The foundation earth electrode is not only not always in the building but, what's worse, is not always made in newly constructed buildings. You have to dig.

A new building without a foundation earth electrode is a mess. And any replacement of its absence with other solutions will never be a professional solution.

Quote:

In April 2007, lightning struck my friend's house. It had a lightning conductor so the fire did not occur. However, the entire electrical installation and the electronics connected to it were damaged. Since then, I have been offering surge arresters and good earth electrodes to everyone with whom I install.

Maybe a colleague does not know, but the existence of a lightning protection system goes hand in hand with the use of lightning arresters (surge arresters) and the resistance of their earthing must not exceed the previously mentioned value. So my colleague has not come up with anything new here.

Quote:

The GSW resistance does not matter from the point of view of protection against electric shock? In TT too?

Let's leave the network layouts. Let's focus on equipotential bonding. This is what GSW is primarily for.

Do not provide premises for asking (uncomfortable) questions, they will not appear.

Moving control joints from the facades of buildings to manholes located below the ground level is a fully professional solution. It improves the aesthetic experience (each lightning protection system is unsightly) and, above all, prevents the effects of devastation.
These solutions will be more and more widely used in Poland, regardless of whether your colleagues like them or not.
So any further discussion to discredit them is futile and pointless.