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Junkers WRP14 G23 Gas Heater: Hot Water in Taps, Cold in Shower Despite Thermostat & Service

Cyks 70754 32
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  • #1 9257503
    Cyks
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    I am the happy owner of the Junkers WRP14 G23 gas heater. The situation looks something like this:
    - the water in all taps in the apartment is hot, there is no problem with heating
    - the water in the shower, despite the appropriate pressure, does not heat up, it is cool
    - when you turn on the water from the tap, the stove produces a characteristic loud sound of burning gas, while when you turn on the water in the shower, the amount of gas fed to the stove is somewhat smaller (less buzzing :) )

    Two days ago, a Junkers service technician was called, who cleaned the entire stove and replaced the electrode. The shower faucet comes with a thermostat.
    What could be the cause of this state of affairs and how to possibly remedy it?
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  • Helpful post
    #2 9257771
    kindlar
    Level 42  
    I think that too little water flow through the shower head does not allow the stove to swing and it only glows without heating the water. Do a test, turn on the additional tap and shower at the same time and you will see that the stove will heat the water and it will reach the shower. If not, the problems are caused by this battery and its thermostat, it may be damaged and too much cold. You would have to do the test again to find something out.
  • Helpful post
    #3 9258032
    nikt_ważny
    Level 17  
    It can be stated with almost 100% certainty that it is the fault of the battery.
    Since when we install batteries with a thermostat or at least a mixer in gas flow heaters.
    After all, the flow and temperature are set in the heater.
    Why one more security?
    When using the mixer, we lose control over the actual temperature from the heater. (Here is an example)
    The fact that modern heaters have this type of protection, just remember that automatic devices like to fail once in a while. (Failure)
    Batteries with a mixer are used with boilers set at 55 ° C so as not to burn yourself (because 55 ° C is already burning)
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  • #4 9258250
    Cyks
    Level 10  
    1. I ran the test that Kindlar writes about. The effect was that the tap water was hot, and the shower was still cold. However, I noticed that after turning off the tap with water in the tap, the water temperature in the shower rises.
    2. I have not noticed that the water flow in the shower is less than in the tap. :(
    3. @ nobody_important: it's hard for me to say why it is mounted this way. :) I am not the owner of the apartment, only the landlord.

    What's next? Open the batteries? It is probably worth mentioning that works were carried out by MPWiK in the vicinity of the block 2-3 weeks ago, as a result of which the pressure in the taps dropped (I think not in the shower). I called the plumber, it turned out that the taps are simply clogged, he cleaned them and everything is fine. Is it possible that the shower faucet is also saturated? I do not notice that the stream of water has significantly decreased.
  • #5 9258914
    kindlar
    Level 42  
    It seems to me that the mechanism in this battery can be expected to be dirty. It is normal to use if there are no mesh filters installed between the battery and the inlet.
    In my opinion, installing such a battery with a thermostat is very convenient for owners of such flow heaters. Why? And for the bather's comfort. Because I know what it looks like in normal use with a battery without a thermostat. Suppose we set the bath water temperature in the tap and suddenly someone turns on the cold water in another tap. Or, conversely, turn on the hot water and its pressure will drop and then ... you can feel it on your back. On the other hand, such a battery regulates all temperature fluctuations as much as it can and the stove itself dims or fires up more when needed.
  • Helpful post
    #6 9258918
    hilzie
    Level 19  
    Ad.2 You did not notice a lower flow, because the faucet is letting cold water through. You have hot and cold water mixed all the time, it is a very common failure of thermostatic faucets. You can try to remove the thermostat and clean the thermostatic bellows from dirt and scale.
  • #7 9262779
    Cyks
    Level 10  
    That's right. The problem is with the battery and thermostat. Apparently it's dirty on the inside. Unfortunately, I don't have a key that can open the damn thing. ; /

    Thanks for your help anyway!
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  • #8 17099226
    A2D2
    Level 1  
    with a defective battery it is true. I had the same. Changing the connection in the bathroom and laundry room and installing a concealed faucet with a mixer. And from then on, in the second bathroom on the floor, the weakly hot water flows. After an hour, I figured it was the battery's fault. It was enough to move the mixer from the middle position to the other and the problem disappeared. And the battery is expensive and not Chinese at all. And I already suspected the plumbers that they mistook the connections for the circulation
  • #9 17486341
    ogrzymar
    Level 11  
    Hello. I will step on the topic without littering the forum. In my shower, warm but not hot water has been running for some time. As long as it was vacation, I didn't need hot showers. It runs normally in the tap in the sink and in the kitchen. I am the only one with a shower with a thermostat in the battery. I bet that's the cause. I live in a block of flats, the water is heated in the water supply, I don't have a proper furnace, nothing like that. The battery is an omnires with a rain shower (above the plaster) of the model I do not remember. How can I check such a thermostat and batteries myself? Maybe there is some regulation?

    I cleaned the strainer and it's better. I have the impression that the thermostat is still weak. Because it is very warm, but still a bit missing from very hot. The handset flies warmer than the rain shower, or at least I think so. I would have to check with a thermometer.
  • #10 17692266
    Andy777
    Level 10  
    the ogre did something about this battery ailment. The situation is similar for me and I wonder where to start. In the same bathroom with a hot tap in the shower slightly warm. Warmer from a handset than from a rain shower. without heaters, working co.
  • #11 17695554
    krzsboj
    Level 13  
    To Cyks, as a colleague wrote: no_Important, the faucet with a thermostat is not suitable for a gas heater, and if it is, it should be set to the highest temperature so that it does not add cold water. If this does not help, descale it and clean the filter on the hot water inlet to the faucet.

    The ogre and Andy777 should be dismantled, cleaned and descaled. Possibly replace the thermostat if damaged.

    best regards
  • #12 17695584
    Andy777
    Level 10  
    I descaled, the valve was in the descaler for a few hours, I cleaned the mesh and it helped a bit, but slightly, the water is a bit warmer, but not as hot as in the washbasin. I think it remains to buy a new head, fortunately it is typical with a diameter of 34 mm.
    Thanks!
  • #13 17695616
    krzsboj
    Level 13  
    Treat the thermostat with hot water and you will find out if it works.

    best regards
  • #14 17695892
    Wojewoda82
    Level 28  
    Finally, I would like to add that do not count on flow-heated hot water, if the shower head (let alone the rain shower) has a flow of, for example, 15-20l / min. A 2-function 24kW gas oven is able to heat about 11 liters of water by 30 degrees per minute. If cold tap water is 7 degrees Celsius in winter, it will be around 37 when heated, not too much. With higher flow / water consumption / full tap / other tap opening and no throttling before cold water enters the boiler, it will heat up even less.

    The solution is to choke the water flow to the boiler, use aerators and smaller shower heads.
  • #15 17695992
    krzsboj
    Level 13  
    Wojewoda82 wrote:
    Finally, I would like to add that do not count on flow-heated hot water, if the shower head (let alone the rain shower) has a flow of, for example, 15-20l / min. A 2-function 24kW gas oven is able to heat about 11 liters of water by 30 degrees per minute. If cold tap water is 7 degrees Celsius in winter, it will be around 37 when heated, not too much. With higher flow / water consumption / full tap / other tap opening and no throttling before cold water enters the boiler, it will heat up even less.

    The solution is to choke the water flow to the boiler, use aerators and smaller shower heads.


    Of course, it is like that, maybe almost like that, it makes no sense to throttle the flow in front of the heater because the regulation in the heater itself will do the trick. With appropriate regulation of the heater, the hot water temperature will be the same at all points of consumption, because the heater does not know where we are taking this water. If it is otherwise, i.e. too cool or too hot, it is the fault of the collection point, usually clogged, restricted flow.

    best regards
  • #16 17706838
    ogrzymar
    Level 11  
    Andy777 wrote:
    the ogre did something about this battery ailment. The situation is similar for me and I wonder where to start. In the same bathroom with a hot tap in the shower slightly warm. Warmer from a handset than from a rain shower. without heaters, working co.


    First I cleaned the strainer which helped a little. The thermostat valve itself is partly made of plastic and I did not want to remove it because it looks like a brittle structure. For this it is so embedded that there is even no way to catch it or I just don't know how to go about it :P After that, I turned the valve a little, increasing the maximum temperature and now it is hot as I wanted.
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  • #17 17706880
    Andy777
    Level 10  
    Thanks for the info .... I descaled, cleaned the strainer and it also flowed warmer, but not much. I decided to have a new head with a thermostat, I got a new one for half the price. It will arrive tomorrow, I will replace it and I hope I will fix the problem for a while.
  • #18 19114062
    lukwin87
    Level 2  
    Hello, I would like to connect to the topic. I have a similar problem, but in the bathtub I have ordinary batteries, without a thermostat (unless I'm wrong, that's why I add a photo).

    In the sink next to the bathtub, the water is hot, while in the bathtub it is lukewarm.

    The stove is Termet Ge 19-02. I tried to regulate it with the knobs on the flame height and temperature, but the effects are poor. Could the fault here also be on the battery side or the stove ends? He's about 5 years old.

    Thank you in advance for your help and best regards.

    Junkers WRP14 G23 Gas Heater: Hot Water in Taps, Cold in Shower Despite Thermostat & Service
  • #19 19114176
    Wojewoda82
    Level 28  
    Unscrew the bathtub spout (warm water) half a whistle and see after a few or several seconds if the water is warmer. it should be warmer. Bathtub faucets have a high water flow and probably this one also has 15l / min, hence the boiler cannot heat it so much through it (it probably has a capacity of 10-11l / min). Cold water is now at 5 degrees.

    Heater parameters:
    Nominal heat output 19.2 kW
    Minimum thermal power 8.0 kW
    Hot water outflow (?t
  • #20 19114378
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    lukwin87 wrote:
    The stove is Termet Ge 19-02. I tried to regulate it with the knobs on the flame height and temperature, but the effects are poor. Could the fault here also be on the battery side or the stove ends? He's about 5 years old.

    you have been a user for 5 years and now something has changed for the worse?
    If so, it may be the effect of calcification in the exchanger, which makes it less heat transferable.
    If this is your first winter and you are renting an apartment, it may be as Wojewoda82 wrote and you have too much water flow in relation to the boiler's technical capabilities.
    I use aerators and in the shower I have a flow of 6.6 l / min, thanks to this my 2-function boiler, although it is twisted with a maximum power of up to 17kW, quietly heats the hot water.
    I always open the tap to the maximum and it's OK, because I know that the flow will not exceed 7 l / min and the boiler will always be able to heat the water.
  • #21 20943851
    Jolanta56
    Level 9  

    >>19114062
    Can I contribute to this topic:
    lukewarm water in the shower, much warmer, proper water in the bathroom and kitchen taps; when the water in the shower is running and I run the tap again - it gets colder in the shower; a detached house; Vaillant stove in the basement, which heats central heating and tap water. The shower faucet, of course, has a thermostat, but it is old - several, if not several dozen, years old. Should I just replace it? Can anyone recommend a plumber in this matter in Poznań? Is it a new faucet with an aerator? Does it matter what kind of shower head you have?
    Jolanta56
  • #22 20944248
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Jolanta56 wrote:
    lukewarm water in the shower, much warmer, proper water in the bathroom and kitchen taps;

    if the boiler heats water in a flow mode, in my opinion you have a higher water flow in the shower than in the taps, hence the effect of colder or warmer water.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    when the water in the shower is running and I run the tap again - it gets colder in the shower;

    if hot water is divided into 2 consumption points during flow heating, this is normal.
    In the case of heating domestic hot water in a flow-through manner, it is recommended that only 1 water intake point be used at a time.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    Vailant stove in the basement, which heats central heating and tap water.

    I don`t know what type of boiler you have, but the most common are 2-function wall-hung boilers with approx. 24-28kW for domestic hot water, which means that with 24kW of power the boiler is able to heat cold water by a maximum of 30 degrees with a water flow of approx. 11 l/min. I`m writing from memory now, so these yields may vary slightly.
    If you want a higher temperature, you need to reduce the water flow.
    This means that if the cold water is 10 degrees, with a maximum power of 24 kW and a water flow of 11 l/min, it will be possible to heat the water to a maximum of 40 degrees and no more, because physics will not allow it. If we wanted warmer water, instead of 11 l/min we would need a lower flow, then we could gain even a few degrees more.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    The shower faucet, of course, has a thermostat, but it is old - several, if not several dozen, years old. Should I just replace it?

    first of all, I would try with a lower cost aerator, and only in the worst case I would replace the tap, but when heating in a flow, I would avoid a thermostatic tap because it mixes hot and cold water, and in such a case I prefer to use only hot water, without mixing it with cold water and in the boiler I have set an acceptable temperature.

    I use a shower aerator myself, it is an approximately 2 cm long adapter between the faucet and the shower hose.
    It must be selected experimentally, because although each one has a given maximum efficiency, this parameter is for a specific pressure, and in each installation the pressure may be different, so the actual efficiency may also be different. I don`t remember what kind of aerator I have, whether it was 7 or maybe 8 l/min, but in fact it reached about 6.6 l/min.
    Apart from the efficiency itself, you also have to compromise and look at the visual water flow so that there is not too little of it, because this also affects the comfort of the shower.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    Can anyone recommend a plumber in this matter in Poznań? Is it a new faucet with an aerator? Does it matter what kind of shower head you have?

    In my opinion, a plumber is not needed at this stage.
    You need to compare the water flow for the tap and for the shower, and you can check this with a water meter. You record a video on your phone and you can determine the water flow with an accuracy of 0.05 l/min.
    If necessary, reduce the flow of hot water through the shower to a level comparable to that of a tap.

    In general, in a single-family house, I would go for a hot water tank - higher installation costs and slightly higher operating costs, but definitely higher comfort of hot water, of course if we do not exceed the capacity of the tank and then a thermostatic tap makes sense.

    Flow heating of domestic hot water is rather practiced in apartments due to the lack of space for a tank or even a boiler with a small built-in tank.
  • #23 20944556
    Jolanta56
    Level 9  
    It`s very difficult for me to conduct this professional discussion because I know so little;
    there is a boiler in the basement: auroCOMPACT/2 VSC S. Vaillant solar-gas condensing boiler. Standing. I know it has a water reservoir in it.
    It serves 2 independent apartments: ground floor and first floor central heating and taps. Probably because the faucet has a thermostat, so that in the event of activation of many draw-off points, cold water does not suddenly fall on the bather`s head? ( Do I think right).
    I don`t know if this boiler uses flow heating. I can`t find it in the documents. The installation manual contains a table with: temperature range 38-65 for domestic hot water. Maximum thermal load of domestic hot water: two types of values here: 24-26kW and 4-6 kW (of course, I don`t understand much).
    Thank you BUCKS for your vote. Maybe you know this cauldron and understand more about it.
    Do you recommend an aerator from any company?

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    I might also add that in the apartment I live in (ground floor) there is a device on the wall for regulation: the set temperature of domestic water there is 45 degrees.
  • #24 20946620
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Jolanta56 wrote:
    It`s very difficult for me to conduct this professional discussion because I know so little;

    If you have various equipment at home, you need to train it or have someone at home to help you, and if not, you need to seek help from a specialist.
    I believe that the topic of aerators does not require a doctorate, but at the beginning everything new seems strange and difficult.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    It serves 2 independent apartments: ground floor and first floor central heating and taps.

    and this is the problem, because what happens in one apartment affects the other apartment. The efficiency of the boiler with the tank is limited and if the technical capabilities are exceeded, it will be a problem, but if it does, it will only be temporary, because after 15-20 minutes the tank should be recharged and we will have full efficiency again for the first minutes.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    Probably because the faucet has a thermostat, so that in the event of activation of many draw-off points, cold water does not suddenly fall on the bather`s head? ( Do I think right).

    The thermostatic faucet does not produce hot water, so theoretically it may happen that someone will be supplied with cold water.
    If the faucet receives hot water at the input, it will mix it so that at the output it finally receives water at the set temperature on the faucet.
    In other words, if you have water at a temperature of 45 degrees in the tank, you will not suddenly get 50 degrees on the faucet, but a maximum of 45 degrees or less, depending on the settings on the faucet.
    In the case of a classic faucet, you have to manually mix hot and cold to ensure proper comfort and avoid burns. In a thermostatic faucet, the thermostat ensures that the hot water maintains the set temperature. This means that the temperature in the tank is e.g. 45 degrees, then you set the temperature on the faucet to e.g. 38 and at the outlet from the faucet you get 38, but if there is not enough hot water in the tank, cold water may soon flow despite the set 38 degrees.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    there is a boiler in the basement: auroCOMPACT/2 VSC S. Vaillant solar-gas condensing boiler. Standing. I know it has a water reservoir in it.

    you have the so-called The "fridge" is a large block with a built-in stratified tank, so in theory there should be no problem with hot water, I originally assumed that you had a hanging boiler, just like me, because most people use such things.
    I don`t know exactly what your model is, but I found the technical data for the model:
    VSC S INT 196/2-C 200 H
    - layered tank 150 l
    - maximum domestic hot water heating power 23kW
    - continuous hot water capacity 570 l/h for 23kW, which gives 9.5 l/min
    - initial hot water capacity 185 l/10 min

    The way I understand these parameters is that we have an average of 18.5 l/min for the first 10 minutes until we use up the heat stored in the tank, and then the efficiency drops to a continuous value of 9.5 l/min.
    If, for example, in the second apartment they have a rain shower with a capacity of 15 l/min, after a 10-minute shower they will use almost all the water and then the efficiency will drop to a maximum of 9.5 l/min.
    This is acceptable for 1 hot water consumption point, but for 2 apartments at the same time it is not enough.
    Of course, when someone empties the tank and finishes washing, the boiler should replenish the supply of c within 15-20 minutes..water and then the initial efficiency will again be at the initial level of 18.5 l/min.

    I would like to remind you that continuous efficiency is calculated for the temperature difference, i.e. delta t = 30 degrees.
    If the actual temperature of cold water is 7 degrees, then with a capacity of 9.5 l/min we will heat the water only to 37 degrees. If necessary, we can obtain 45 degrees, but the missing 8 degrees will affect the efficiency, which will drop from 9.5 to approximately 7.5 l/min.
    But on the other hand, if we have 45 degrees in the tank and need 38 degrees at the outlet from the faucet, we mix hot and cold, so the consumption of hot water will be correspondingly lower.
    It is something like a system of communicating vessels ;-)

    Assuming that the thermostatic faucet is functional, if you have hot water in the tap and cold water in the shower, there is a chance that the aerator will help.
    If one boiler supplies two apartments, it is best if both apartments have aerators that limit the maximum water flow.
    Taking into account the continuous maximum theoretical efficiency of 9.5 l/min, I would install aerators everywhere so that the actual efficiency of one water intake point does not exceed 8 l/min.

    A stream of 8 l/min should provide a satisfactory stream of water in the shower and reduce the risk of lack of hot water, and in the case of a charged tank, it will ensure the comfort of domestic hot water for the first approx. 10 minutes when using two hot water consumption points at the same time.
    Taps may have aerators of 5-6 l/min.

    On the other hand, if you have a boiler with a built-in tank, there should be a period when you will not run out of hot water and there should be no problem for 24 hours, and only temporarily, when both apartments will consume hot water at the same time.
    If you always have problems with the shower, then I would tend to think that the faucet is to blame, and then it may require some cleaning, descaling or replacing with a new one.

    Jolanta56 wrote:
    I might also add that in the apartment I live in (ground floor) there is a device on the wall for regulation: the set temperature of domestic water there is 45 degrees.

    I have my boiler set to 38 degrees and when using water without mixing it with cold water, it is acceptable to me.

    As for aerators, I bought the Neoperl brand, but there are also others on the market, I don`t remember the brands anymore, because this topic is from several years ago.
  • #25 20947281
    VPS
    Level 25  
    @Jolanta56 VSC S INT 196/2-C 200 H has a mixing valve installed inside the boiler at the hot water outlet. This valve is installed due to solar panels which can heat hot water to a higher temperature than the 45 degrees set on your controller. Are you asking whether the boiler heats water in a flow mode? This is how it heats flow and loads the stratified tank in certain situations at the same time.
  • #26 20948681
    Jolanta56
    Level 9  

    Thank you.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    >>20946620

    Yes, I always have this problem, the water in the shower is always colder than in the taps. So it's probably a battery issue.
  • #27 21368349
    Quleross
    Level 11  
    Gentlemen I have read all the posts and can't see a solution to the problem for me. Today my wife calls me into the shower and says the water is running cool, a little surprised I look at the cooker and there it shows 33 degrees and the temperature is not going up. We have a Termet minamax elegance gas cooker with no water tank, it heats up on the fly.
    I turn on the taps in the wash basins and the water reaches the set temperature of 42 degrees, but in the shower, bath and kitchen it seems to me that the water pressure is already higher and it can't heat the water to the desired temperature unless the water pressure is reduced. Then it reaches the set temperature. I had the cooker serviced in the autumn. I have the usual basin and shower taps as well as in the kitchen. I'm starting here because it's almost midnight and it's starting to bother me. I should add that the heating in the house is ok, is this an issue of some kind on the cooker? Should I be worried about any leaks in the system?
  • #28 21368583
    W0jtek92
    Level 38  
    Hi. Has the pressure in the bathroom taps always been the same? If so, I would bet on a calcified hot water exchanger. It may not be very calcified, but there is enough calcium that it no longer reheats the water at a higher flow rate.
    Regards.
  • #29 21368750
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Quleross wrote:
    Gentlemen, I have read all the posts and do not see a solution to the problem with me
    .
    Reading everything and understanding are two different things.

    I would start by checking the actual water flows when the hot water taps are turned to the max at the various hot water points.
    Most people have a water meter, so you can easily check to the nearest 100ml how many litres of water will flow in 1 minute at each individual tap/shower.
    With this knowledge then you can estimate whether the hot water flows are within the technical capabilities of the boiler.
    Of course, I am assuming that you know that with a boiler of the order of 24kW you can in principle use ONLY one hot water point at a time.

    If you have information on the flow rates for individual taps, you will know whether the problem is too high a DHW flow rate or something else, e.g. the exchanger mentioned above and its scale contamination. However, no one knows what the problem is in your case and all advice will always be speculation.
  • #30 21368793
    Quleross
    Level 11  
    From my observation I can say that the pressure at various points in the house did not change. In the bath it always ran stronger and in the shower and it took a while for the temperature on the cooker to reach the set point. Now, after turning on the tap, the cooker temp even flies down, does not rise and stands at 33 degrees. Only when the mixer tap is turned halfway does the temp go up and hot water comes on.
    I called for a service technician today, but of course the waiting time will not jump. So far we have hot water by turning on the tap.

    Added after 5 [minutes]: .

    I've had a look at where this exchanger is mounted. I think it is unscrewable without much technology. The issue is if it's on those 2 screws just fixed and how those water tubes go in there, what principle holds it. Heat exchanger lying on a surface with metallic grooves and markings. .

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around issues with the Junkers WRP14 G23 gas heater, specifically the problem of hot water being available at taps but cold in the shower. Users suggest that insufficient water flow through the shower head may prevent the heater from functioning properly, leading to cooler water temperatures. The presence of a thermostat in the shower faucet is also highlighted as a potential cause of the issue, with recommendations to clean or replace the thermostat if it is clogged or malfunctioning. Several users share their experiences with similar problems, emphasizing the importance of maintaining proper water flow and the potential need for aerators or smaller shower heads to improve heating efficiency. The discussion concludes with suggestions for troubleshooting and possible solutions, including descaling and cleaning components.
Summary generated by the language model.
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