Connecting an Induction Hob with 3 Phases & 0, Without Grounding: Safety & Method

Hello!

I have an induction hob to connect. There are a lot of topics about connecting such a kitchen, but I have not found a full hint for me. Combining black with brown, combining blue with white and yellow-green is coming out of the oven.

However, I have only 3 phases and 0 connected to my apartment. I have no grounding. If I connect black to phase 1, brown to the second and connect all 3 wires (white, blue and green-yellow) to 0, will it be ok? I know that the grounding is supposed to be bridged to 0, and even as I have seen, I have it done in some sockets, but will it be safe for this cooker?

I have overcurrent fuses in the cabinet, I don't have differential ones.

Regards.

Upload some photo

Read the warranty terms.
Mostly, it is reserved for the connection of the device by a qualified specialist.
If you do not have an installer entry in the warranty card, you can forget about the warranty.

Regards

I've attached a drawing from the manual. Basically it's clear to me, I just don't know about this grounding.

I'm going to call someone like that, but I want to know the subject because as I read on the forums, even an electrician can connect the stove wrong.

Regards!

The rules for adding photos are here: https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1491634.html
[retro food]

The electrician you invite to connect the cooker should know that you need to connect it as in figure 3 - L1 to terminal 1, L2 to terminal 2, and the rest depends on the layout of the network. If it is TN-C, then terminals 3, 4 and 5 should be connected together and PEN wire should be connected in this place. In the TT installation, there will be no grounding, because the so-called "zero" cannot be used for security purposes.

jarecki 86 wrote:

The electrician you invite to connect the oven should know that you need to connect it as shown in figure 3 .

My colleague probably meant drawing number two, because the third one is something not very common in Poland.

As for the topic, this is the most important question:
What is the layout of the network?

Hello.

Figure 2 differs from number 3 in that there is a jumper on N, that's all.
The electrical installation inside the kitchen is unchanged.

To tell you the truth, I don't know what kind of network it is, but I hope I didn't throw money away on a CD I won't be able to use. Can I check it somehow?

This is an old post-German building still. I have a rather good installation in my apartment (from the 80s) because I had everything on electricity so far. Water heater and electric heaters throughout the house and everything worked. The heater was a 3-phase siemens and it worked, but I don't know if it needed grounding.

Whether you can use the hob will not depend on how you connect the ground, but how much power you can supply from your home installation. Calculate that for each kilowatt of power you need 5 amps from the mains.
Regards, Jerzy

I am not afraid of whether it can be powered, because I am in the process of replacing the heating with gas, i.e. I have already replaced the instantaneous water heater (9kW / 18kW) in favor of a gas one, now I will be getting rid of electric heaters in each room, each over 2kW per ordinary radiators. So I think that if it all worked, then the cooker will also work without problems, but I don't know about this grounding, because I don't have this cable in the wall.

dispellscroll wrote:

...but will it be safe for this cooker?

Buddy, you care about the device, and it's supposed to be safe for people, not for a piece of scrap metal and a few electronic and electrical elements.

dispellscroll wrote:

I'm going to call someone like that, but I want to know the subject because as I read on the forums, apparently even an electrician can connect the stove wrong.

"Ogres, on the other hand... Well, this is worse. Ogres make gloves of human skin and key chains of liver..."

You have read fairy tales and you think that you will do it much better, although you have absolutely no idea about electrical installations.

dispellscroll wrote:

I am not afraid of whether it can be powered, because I am in the process of replacing the heating with gas, i.e. I have already replaced the instantaneous water heater (9kW / 18kW) in favor of a gas one, now I will be getting rid of electric heaters in each room, each over 2kW per ordinary radiators. So I think that if it all worked, the cooker will also work without problems, but I don't know about this grounding, because I don't have this cable in the wall.

The fact that you had radiators in the rooms and a flow heater somewhere does not mean that the installation in the kitchen will withstand the load of the induction hob.
Without inspecting the condition of the installation, without knowing what the cross-sections of wires led from the switchgear to the kitchen are, without knowledge of the protection that can be used and without knowledge of the conditions, it is difficult to advise anything, and any advice here on the forum is "divination from coffee grounds"
The best solution would be to make the installation compliant with current standards and make it safe. For this purpose, it would be necessary to add a PE cable, grounding and installation in accordance with TN-CS or TT, depending on the requirements of the energy supplier.
With the rest, it will probably be better for this board to lay a new 5-wire cable with 3-phase power supply and separate N and PE wires, because it is probably a board that can be powered with 2 or 3 phases. Then you will spread the load better.

Quote:

Buddy, you care about the device, and it's supposed to be safe for people, not for a piece of scrap metal and a few electronic and electrical elements.

You are right here.

Quote:

You have read fairy tales and you think that you will do it much better, although you have absolutely no idea about electrical installations.

I didn't write anything that I thought I would do it better, on the contrary, but these are probably not fairy tales since people write about installer errors. In general, what my friends who are building or renovating say about "professionals" in general is enough to be afraid of ogres and dragons. I'm just afraid that such a guy will come, bridge zero with PE, take the money and that's it. That's all I can do myself. That's why I would like to be familiar with the topic so that I can push it a bit. If I had just called such a guy before I read anything, he would have been able to tell me every good thing.


As for the installation in the kitchen, I want to connect the three-phase circuit left after the heater there.

As for the implementation of the installation in accordance with the standards, I would have to tear apart the walls in the apartment to add 1 cable everywhere, and move the entire housing community to do the same in the entire building, I can't see it well.

The topic has been covered many times. closing.