Connecting Bosch PUE611BB2E Induction Hob to 3-Phase Network: Wiring, Color Codes & Safety

Hello.
I want to connect a Bosch induction hob to a 3-phase network. I connected the wires in the board according to the diagram on the bottom of the board (visible in the attached photo).
The power supply conductor has five cores, namely: 1 green-yellow PE conductor, 1 blue neutral conductor and 3 phase L conductors - black, brown and gray.
The board has 5 cores of the same color, 2 phase (black and brown), 2 neutral (blue and gray) and PE. (The board veins visible in the photo are placed with the ankle).
Two questions:
1. Is the cube too poor and shouldn't I replace it with a more stable one?
2. Should the wires be connected as follows: PE core of the board with PE core from the power supply, black core of the board with black core of power supply, brown core of the board with brown core of power supply, gray core from the power supply as the 3rd phase (for the board, the third phase is no longer needed) remains unconnected only a self-weighed, blue power wire with two blue and gray board wires?


Added after 4 [minutes]:

It also adds photos to the preview of how I connected the wires in the board.

1. No.
2. Good reasoning, although I don't get it:

martamarta_2008 wrote:

remains unconnected only self-weighed

as above: black power supply from black plate, brown power supply from brown plate, earth power supply from earth plate, blue power supply from blue and gray plate (need to be bridged) and guitar playing. Generally, connect as below in the red circle

If you have at least two phases connected to the power supply, then as you write.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

wrote:

remains unconnected only self-weighed

Ended with a wago connector and not connected anywhere.

Where do you get the entry to the warranty card of a licensed electrician so as not to lose the warranty?

barteksmrek wrote:

Ended with a wago connector and not connected anywhere.

That was exactly what it was about

After all, it doesn't have to be guaranteed. She hadn't even mentioned that she needed her.

A friend from work or a colleague of a colleague with valid SEP qualifications is enough to even have a look and enter the warranty card. It does not have to be a person running a business (an electrician with a company), it is enough to enter the authorization number and the guest's signature in the guarantee .

zhudomel wrote:

Where do you get the entry to the warranty card of a licensed electrician so as not to lose the warranty?

Don't worry about my warranty
Maybe I have a CD without documents, e.g. I stole it

But the fact is, if you want to have a valid guarantee, you should have an entry from someone with permissions.

This third phase, which you will complete with Wago, is generally used for the oven.

It is better not to brag about it here

martamarta_2008 wrote:

Maybe I have a CD without documents, e.g. I stole it

But it must be praised that the fair sex is overwhelmed by Wago and a three-phase connection.
Some electricians do not understand ...

artaa wrote:

This third phase, which you will complete with Wago, is generally used for the oven.

Yes, I know, but the oven is plugged in elsewhere

Then you can close the topic.

But I was wondering if, having only one neutral wire on the power supply, I should not connect as shown in the first diagram in the attached photo below?
If the manufacturer did not offer such a scheme for my model, should I not invent it myself?

They are bridged, so the effect is the same.
Even if you had two N, they would be in the switchboard on one N strip.

artaa wrote:

They are bridged, so the effect is the same.
Even if you had two N, they would be in the switchboard on one N strip.

Well, this is what he thinks, but when I see that in one manufacturer only there are different schematic propositions in two different models, why are they different, if they basically give the same effect? Maybe this is something here: D I am not an Elelktry, nor do I produce albums and I do not write diagrams, I just deduce

From what you have given - photo stickers on the disc, 1 is not used for you.

This picture 6, first from the left, also from your manual?

The manual sometimes has too many variants ...

artaa wrote:

This picture 6, first from the left, also from your manual?

No, it's a different model's manual

Ehh, don't mess it up.

artaa wrote:

From what you have given - photo stickers on the disc, 1 is not used for you.

Are you talking about the first clamp?

Yes, terminal 1 on the right "phase" side.

artaa wrote:

Yes, terminal 1 on the right "phase" side.

Why inactive? If I put a gray wire under this terminal (as suggested in the diagram of another model with a three-phase power supply), it would be active
Then I would connect the gray and brown wires from the board to one phase conductor of the power supply. I am just wondering why my board model didn't foresee this for users with three phases.

It is better not to combine with this clamp, we do not know what it is connected to inside, maybe for nothing (you would have to unscrew the board to find out).

martamarta_2008 wrote:

Then I would connect the gray and brown wires from the board to one phase conductor of the power supply

Now let's talk about the above quote, if the gray from the board was to be phase, then to relieve one phase in the home installation, it would have to be connected to the gray one from the power supply, and not to the brown one, because this one already has its counterpart on the board. I suspect that the board only needs 2 power phases, because its connection power does not exceed 5kW, but only 4.6kW. According to common sense, if the cable is 2.5mm2, you should pass up to 2-2.5kW through it, although at 2kW it will already heat up. Hence the power supply in two phases. Of course, the manufacturer could envisage the power supply of three for a lower load on the wires, but why. Apart from that, flats in blocks of flats / tenement houses are powered by two phases from WLZ (although usually one), in houses they are sometimes three phases. Maybe the manufacturer provided just such a power supply for the disc.

Gray to the phase? good. There is a factory bridge between gray and blue. If there is a set between gray and L2 or L1 intended for 230V power supply, good luck with 415V there. What do you think why the manufacturer did not provide for a 3-phase power supply?

barteksmrek wrote:

Gray to the phase? good

Gray to brown (phase) is the manufacturer's diagram as you can see in the photo in my 15th post, not my invention. You're not the first to be surprised.

martamarta_2008 wrote:

If the manufacturer did not offer such a scheme for my model, should I not invent it myself?

That's in post 15.
Well, producers don't always know what they're doing. You see that the gray one in the photos, not from your model, is derived from a different clamp?
I propose to close the topic and it should be done after the first two posts.