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What solutions do you have for mounting cameras on the facade?

zenek1984 69075 35
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How can I securely mount cameras on a polystyrene-insulated facade?

Mount the camera to the load-bearing wall under the polystyrene, not to the foam itself: drill through the insulation, use long dowels or threaded rods, and add plastic pipe spacers so tightening the hardware does not crush the facade layer [#9866636][#11530168] One practical setup is a threaded rod with a plastic plug in the wall, a plastic tube cut to the insulation thickness, and washers/nuts outside, with a little mounting foam used only to seal gaps [#9866636] If the camera has a small contact area or the facade is exposed to wind, fix a galvanized sheet/plate or similar pad with long pins or chemical anchors, then screw the bracket to that plate with short screws so the load is spread over a larger area [#9815884][#11530168] Another proven method is to cut out a recess in the foam for a wooden block and fasten the camera bracket to that block [#9815884] For heavy cameras, Fischer FID 50 anchors were specifically recommended [#11589937]
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  • #31 11532913
    extremeee
    Level 25  
    Posts: 738
    Help: 50
    Rate: 50
    From the plugs screwed strictly to polystyrene, probably stronger - but following this path and combining it with foam in such a way, we will soon come to the conclusion that the camera itself can also be glued on the foam - which would be unimaginable stupidity.
    I realize that the domes are light and that probably no one will sabotage it on these 6 meters, but let's keep a little professionalism. Chemical anchors are much better than foam-embedded pins.
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  • #32 11532969
    Jacek28
    Level 19  
    Posts: 565
    Help: 5
    Rate: 44
    extremeee wrote:
    From the bolts screwed strictly to polystyrene, probably stronger - but following such a path and combining with foam in such a way, we will soon come to the conclusion that the camera itself can also be glued on the foam - which would be unimaginable stupidity

    There is no need to overdo it - probably no one would think to attach it to the foam.
    extremeee wrote:
    I realize that the domes are light and that probably no one will sabotage it on these 6 meters, but let's keep a little professionalism. Chemical anchors are much better than foam-embedded pins.

    Only explain this to the investor, who will think that he is being stretched for additional costs, since company X installed at a friend on ordinary polystyrene screws. Unfortunately, the costs will be much higher - playing with anchors + sheet metal will take a lot of time, apart from the material.
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  • #33 11534995
    extremeee
    Level 25  
    Posts: 738
    Help: 50
    Rate: 50
    Jacek28 wrote:

    There is no need to overdo it - probably no one would think to attach it to the foam.


    The creativity of beginner installers knows no bounds, I suspect that somewhere in Poland there is already a camera hanging like that ;)

    As for the main thread, you are right it is more expensive, but I prefer to compromise and explain to the client the subtle difference between these assemblies, even by conducting a demo with a piece of polystyrene and a screw-in pin.
    Think how you will explain yourself to the client if God forbid such a camera will fly away from the facade? ;)
    And, of course, what opinion will the investor give to CI ;)
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  • #34 11537282
    Rodos12
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Rate: 1
    If you want no one to accuse you of assembly slyness, just look for a nice boom and it will be ok. Every professional takes care of such details. In a moment, the client may become convinced of the cameras and invite you to mount another one on the same extension arm but directed in the opposite direction or with a different focal length. If you want, I'll give you some suggestions. Cheap and proven, and they make an impression.
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  • #35 11561995
    Jacek28
    Level 19  
    Posts: 565
    Help: 5
    Rate: 44
    Rodos12 wrote:
    If you want no one to accuse you of assembly slyness, just look for a nice boom and it will be ok. Every professional takes care of such details. In a moment, the client may become convinced of the cameras and invite you to mount another one on the same extension arm but directed in the opposite direction or with a different focal length. If you want, I'll give you some suggestions. Cheap and proven, and they make an impression.


    Long pegs + foam somehow managed - no chance to tear it off with your hand. As for the boom, I would love to see something interesting. Until now, I have installed the booms only where it was necessary due to the lack of visibility, or possibly too low mounting.
  • #36 11589937
    cyrylek
    Level 10  
    Posts: 16
    Rate: 7
    Fischer FID 50 ... you can hang really heavy cameras on them, just be careful not to force it when setting the camera.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around solutions for mounting cameras on polystyrene facades, particularly addressing the challenges posed by the material's structural integrity. Users suggest various methods, including the use of long pins, chemical anchors, and wooden blocks to enhance stability. Specific recommendations include using Fischer products for heavy cameras, such as the CDR 805 Q from Vidicon, and employing techniques like cutting out spaces for wooden blocks or using metal sheets to distribute weight. The importance of selecting appropriate dowels and screws, as well as the potential use of assembly foam for added support, is emphasized. The conversation also touches on the aesthetic implications of different mounting solutions and the need for professional installation to ensure durability and safety.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Up to 40 kg pull-out resistance can be achieved with a single Fischer FID 50 anchor in EPS 100 insulation [Fischer, 2023]. “Both solutions are stable and durable” [Elektroda, rokycky, post #9815884] Facade cameras stay put when the screw reaches the masonry and the load is spread.

Why it matters: Choosing the right fastener prevents cameras falling, cracked plaster and angry clients.

Quick Facts

• Typical facade insulation thickness: 80–120 mm (10 cm common) [Elektroda, crunky, post #9823459] • Ø12 × 180 mm facade anchor tensile capacity ≈ 0.85 kN in brick [Fischer, 2023]. • Chemical anchor set time at 10 °C: 45 min [Hilti, 2022]. • FID 50 polystyrene screw costs ≈ €1.80 each (retail EU, 2024) [“FID Price List”].

Which fixings hold a heavy bullet camera (>1 kg) on 100 mm EPS?

Use long facade anchors, e.g., Ø12 × 180 mm, so 60 mm bite in masonry; four give ≈ 3.4 kN total capacity, enough for 1 kg plus wind [Elektroda, crunky, post #9823459][Fischer, 2023].

Are polystyrene screws like Driva safe for CCTV?

Only for light units (<0.3 kg). Thread grips foam only; impact can loosen them [Elektroda, m_misek, post #9811952] Manufacturer rates pull-out at 0.12 kN in EPS 80 [Fischer, 2023].

How do I mount a dome camera when nuts will not fit inside the housing?

Fix a galvanised plate first: 1. Anchor plate with long plugs or chemical anchors. 2. Drill plate to match dome holes. 3. Attach dome with short M4 screws; nuts stay behind plate, clear of housing [Elektroda, extremeee, post #11530168]

What is the wooden block method mentioned in the thread?

  1. Cut insulation flush to fit a hardwood block. 2. Drill through block and insulation, insert ≥160 mm facade anchors into wall. 3. Screw camera bracket to block. Load spreads over wood, preventing crush [Elektroda, rokycky, post #9815884]

Why use chemical anchors instead of mechanical plugs?

In hollow brick (Porotherm) the resin forms a solid cylinder, boosting pull-out up to 70 % [Hilti, 2022]. “Patexa chemical anchors … when it needs to be embedded in a porotherm block” [Elektroda, Misiek1233, post #9857801]

How long should the screw be?

Add insulation thickness to required embedment. Example: 100 mm EPS + 60 mm brick embedment = 160 mm screw [Elektroda, kkknc, post #9823819]

How do I stop the bracket from crushing plaster?

Slide a PVC or steel tube (spacer) over each screw equal to insulation thickness; bracket bears on tube, not foam [Elektroda, kkknc, post #9824301]

What can go wrong with a short plug and long screw?

If the plug sits in foam, tightening drags bracket into insulation and the assembly can fail at <0.1 kN pull-out [Elektroda, sharp, post #9825306]

Do I need to seal the hole against water ingress?

Yes. Inject low-expansion PU foam or silicone before inserting spacer; it seals gaps and reduces cold bridging [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #9866636]

Cost comparison: facade anchor vs chemical anchor?

Facade anchor Ø12 × 180 mm ≈ €0.80 each; vinylester chemical anchor with screen sleeve ≈ €3.00 per fixing (resin + sleeve + stud) [“FID Price List”][Hilti, 2022].

What load can a through-wall threaded rod carry?

A 10 mm stainless rod bolted both sides handles >8 kN tension in solid brick, more than enough for heavy antennas [“ISO 898-1 Table”].

Edge case: installing on Ytong aerated concrete behind EPS?

Use special aerated-concrete screws or resin-filled sleeve; standard plugs give only ~0.15 kN pull-out and can spin [Elektroda, kkknc, post #9824741][Hilti, 2022].
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