Best Methods for Securing YDYP 3x1.5-2.5 Cables to Aerated Concrete Walls

Hello,

What is the best way to fix the ydyp 3x1.5-2.5 cables to the wall of aerated concrete? There are such plastic holders, but are they suitable for laying wires in bk ?. I have seen a method for plates with a pin and papiak, will it work when attaching to the bk?

I think I'm looking bad, because I found only something like this on Allegro http://allegro.pl/uchwyc-aluminiowy-40x10mm-usmp-blaszki-do-gwozdzi-i6035861908.html

Are there any other better ways to make the wires fit nicely to the walls and not fall off?

Buddy, you can use something like this Link , they are of different types, it will look better if you are not going to plaster. If there is to be plaster, there can be plates, it will do its job. You should get holders like these from most electrical retailers.

I have always used standard fi6 pins, metal plates (for 1 cable 50mm and 2 cables 60mm) and papers.
Remember to buy good quality pegs, because the cheap ones like to break off and fall into the chambers.
Regards!

Plastic USMPs are suitable, just do not overdo the diameter of the holes.

There will be no plaster, only plasterboard with glue. So it's best to use the plastic ones?

Won't they be better USMP-3 Bis? and USMPH-3 ?
I also have a piece of a wall made of ceramic hollow bricks with voids, will such handles work?

If it goes under the boards, I suggest a peg plus a plate, it will be better to hold and it is more comfortable to attach (at least for me).


As for ceramic hollow bricks, it is better to use dowels, if possible, drill at the junction of two hollow bricks. With plastics, I know from experience that there were greater problems with the fastening (they broke because the drill always escaped on the second layer at different angles, they fell out).
Ceramic are mean to attach with both methods.

Most of them have cellular concrete blocks, so plastic ones would probably work there, but not really on ceramic blocks, except in the joints.

Ok, buddy, but where to buy such badges with a pin in a set online? I was looking for the Allegro and I can not find these plates, i.e. they are complete with pins, but the shipping is more expensive than the product itself, although I will need at least a few hundred pieces anyway.
Now I do not have time to go for it and if I had ordered it and it came, I would have laid the cables for a while.

Buddy, where to buy on the Internet, I do not know too much. However, I would suggest you drive to some electrical store / warehouse.
I would also like to suggest that instead of typical papiaki I recommend galvanized twisted nails and 6 kpx pins - at the moment I do not remember the specific dimensions of the nails, tomorrow I could check it for you.

www.ihe. pl
Type usmp there.

Ok buddy, I found a cut aluminum tape, full of it 1-2-0209 & order = p could be those from the link from 1 post, but these papiaki and pins are probably a poor connection, I think the pins are probably best for empty spaces, so that they hold and do not fall out.

Lidben wrote:

these papiaki and pins are probably a poor connection,

If you do in bulk, where the price is the most important, and you skillfully use them, i.e. you drive with sensitivity, it's hard to pull out with pliers for a good few years now.

Yes, buddy, buy yourself the 6cm. You can put two cables in parallel, or let the cable run individually - it makes no sense to separate the plates for one wire, and the plates for two wires separately.
As I wrote before, the kpx pins have a smaller collar.
Papiaki nails do not hold well. Plus, regular ones can rust over time. Galvanized curly and it will be ok.

swicio wrote:

Galvanized curly and it will be ok.

Galvanized nails, driven e.g. into belit, will also rust after plastering with gypsum

I will definitely arrange alu tape and pegs. If they rust, it probably doesn't matter under the plasterboard (?). Thanks to everyone for the help and information, pifka gone.

I consider the topic resolved, but I do not close it, as if someone would like to comment and contribute something new.

Gentlemen, the world is moving forward, but I can see that a plate with a nail will probably outlive all generations of electricians.
I use the handles from post 4 and 5 myself, you just need to choose the drills properly. Recently, I had to use ?7.
In many cases only nails

One more question, does anyone know how many alu tapes or plates are in such a 1 kg package? because I do not know whether to take by weight or by weight and I will definitely need several hundred.

Tomorrow I will write you around 8 am when I look at the package !

Ok, I'll be grateful, thanks.

I propose usmp in the joints, or the blocks themselves, if something does not sit down, then cutters and cut them , some 2,000 apartments made.

And at least 2,000 holes with handles in each apartment I recommend these handles.

I use US type handles and I am very happy with them, it is made quickly and conveniently. All you need is a drill, a pack of handles in your pocket and wires to lay
I have used products of various brands and I like the ones from Plastikon.
I did not like the Bis-type brackets due to the less convenient laying of the cables, there were cases of the cable sticking out of the wall when using them.
If a colleague has such an opportunity, I recommend trying both methods: on the handles and on the plates. The best opinion on mounting technology is based on your own experience

The upside to the lamellas is that you only need a hammer in good winds.

Man, but you messed with my head . I can see that what Fachman praises me, I do it for myself and not so much as comfort and reliability counts, it is known that it will not be visible when plasterboards stick, but it will not happen soon and it has to be done until then hold the walls well and not fall off. I would like to remind you that I have walls made of aerated concrete, so it is impossible to hammer a nail with a plate like this, the pegs have to be there.

The plates with pins are more expensive and there is a bit more work to do with them, but they seem so more pro to me. Plastic is definitely more comfortable and, as the name says, faster to install.

In addition, I want the wires to fit perfectly to the wall, so that they do not reflect plasterboards, and with plastic ones, I think they stick out more.

One more question, before laying the wires, do you draw paths with their routes to make it easier or how?

I arrange the horizontal sections parallel to the joint in blocks / blocks, which ensures sufficient accuracy. I set the vertical sections and sections on the sufice, where there are no close points of reference, according to cross laser indications.
For drilling holes, I have a template that ensures even distribution of the wires.
In both techniques, the stand-off depends mainly on the laying and quality of the wire. Market cables often have a tendency to twist, which makes the work much more difficult.

Lidben wrote:

Man, but you messed with my head

We did not confuse. Various technologies of assembling electric cables were or are adapted to the current supply of the electric market with the necessary accessories.
In the past, the Dyt cable used only a concrete nail hammered into the center of the cable, there were also wooden pegs with binding wire, aluminum plates with papaki, etc. What was available was used.
At present, with the ubiquitous residual current circuit breaker, the only correct solution are USMP handles mounted to previously drilled holes with a drill. Metal fasteners, whether in the form of a wire, a nail, or a mounting pin screw, are avoided.
More than once, I have witnessed the occurrence of problems and activation of RCDs even 10 years after the installation of the electrical installation in the facilities. And it was caused by the leakage to the metal fasteners. A little damp and the shoddy comes out after many years.

Quote:

One more question, before laying the wires, do you draw paths with their routes to make it easier or how?

There are assembly zones that you should stick to. The vertical and level can be determined by means of a paint and a string.

One likes brunettes, one likes blondes and the third one likes redheads, and everyone praises theirs.
Try each one and make the decision yourself.
And there are many more patents: conduits in a conduit laid on the floor, I even once saw the conduits being glued to the wall with plaster or something similar on a regular basis.

Well, it happens that several wires will run next to each other, such a template could be useful. I have a laser level to determine the level. How, before laying the wires, do you decide where to drill for the holders, or in turn for each wire, or all at once?

I have such a template and I can drill all the wires at once if I have to. to drill something, I put the template on the already existing holes.

Cool thing with this template, is it ready-made or handmade? I understand these holes are already adapted to the spacing of the wires? Are all holes single for all or for different cables, i.e. 3x1.5 3x2.5? etc. Maybe I could make such or a similar template myself.