How to Check Drive Joint: Outer Joint Play & Vibrations in Passat 1.9 TDI 105 KM 2006 Model

Can the outer joint have play? When I grab the driveshaft, I can move the wheel about 0.5 cm. Patient is a passat 1.9 tdi 105 KM. 2006. You can feel vibrations on the steering wheel, but the steering wheel does not fly. You can also hear the knock, which starts at about 80 km / h and increases with the speed. the outside temperature, the warmer it is, the louder it breaks. Most of the key is on a smooth road as smooth as a table. If the road is slightly uneven and you drive up to 100 km / h - quieter. In the morning, these are typical symptoms of a damaged bearing reacting to turns after a dozen or so kilometers passes. The car with this symptom is already driving about 7000 km and nothing wants to fall apart until the end .

On corners, when starting quickly on twisted wheels - silence.

How to check the joints?

Hello.
First, a few words about the wrist. There should be no play at all, but the more kilometers on the dashboard, the greater the wear. When it is really damaged at the maximum turn and drive on one, you will hear a knocking.
You can remove the vibrations on the steering wheel in a workshop with a wheel balancer. Check the balance and carefully check the tread for a lump. There will probably be a tumor.
Once the bearing starts to rustle, it will stop only after replacement.

New tires. The same for the old ones. For the trial, I put on winter tires - no changes.
There is no vibration on the steering wheel, but you can feel the vibration. On the counter 120,000 real.
Can the outer joint have play? What is allowable?

T5 wrote:

Can the outer joint have play? What is allowable?

Yes, the joint may have play, but it shouldn't. If you lock the driveshaft, you cannot move the wheel. It does not have to knock when turning, as the colleague described above, and the vibrations will be transferred to the car body in such a way that sometimes it is really hard to find the cause. If there is play, just replace it (joint), but I assume that the suspension and stabilizers are ok! There is no slack in there!

T5 wrote:

The car with this symptom is already driving about 7000 km and nothing wants to fall apart until the end .

Because it will not fall apart if the client can skillfully start with the wheels turned. There were just such joints (I've already changed a few myself) that after a dozen or so thousand. kilometers were just getting this kind of slack ...

The clearance mentioned here is probably total of the joints, the spline and the differential. that is, about 0.5 cm around the circumference is not much. I would look for reasons in suspension in this geometry. The placenta can cause this behavior, but it breaks down quickly. If you do not hear a knocking noise when turning, the articulation is not likely to be excessively worn.

Sometimes a damaged joint has no play and sometimes they ride with a lot of slack. I take the joints apart and wash them as I want to be sure of the damage.

Did you put these tires on the same rims? If you are sure about the tires, check the rims for sideways runout. You can remove the wheels, engage the gear and watch for the discs to run out sideways. Perhaps some caliper rubbed on the guide and the slightly curved disc will give a similar symptom, only when braking it will feel vibrations on the steering wheel.

It is probably only new that there is no slack. I don't know if it will help you, but:
1. I hit a mazda once, which "clicked" on a bend. I say the wrist. Out of curiosity, I take it apart, wash it, and watch it. Balls- flash, runners zero wear / without any breaks in the middle part /, basket- great. I think multi-wedge. Check, tight. Put it back on, with new grease and cover. twist-click. Customer brought some quinol. I assume, twist-silence.
2. volvo and bmw. Knocks when starting and braking. Suspensions after replacement. It turns out lumpy grease in the joints. In the service point, the repair of this is called: lubrication of the axle shaft spline.
As for the vibrations on the cooker, none of them was supposed to vibrate.

Check the inner joints, if there is any play, there will be vibrations on the body.

The hinge must not have any play. I will say more - the so-called The "apple" inside should sit tightly and it is difficult to move your fingers. I would take them out, clean them and lubricate them, both inside and outside.

The inside have no slack. I mean how grandpa check. I know for sure that it's the left side.
The external person on a trip to this model costs about a cent. I will buy it and see if it comes.
However, the topic is as topical as possible. rate with all due respect-you undress the one that has slack and works flawlessly and the one that has no slack. How to verify if it is a clatter?
bandi21 I know a typical symptom of an inner joint (the shed flips sideways) and here is something else, it is not typical.
in progress74 I found a sharan who started to patter after 200km of continuous driving, it was external.
robocop The cover is whole and still original, where would the dirt come from? On the other hand, be honest, did disassembling, cleaning and re-lubricating ever help?
In the old years there was such a patent "on the stock exchange". A plasticine box under the cover and the wrist was silent.



Where does the temperature dependence come from? Something like - the hotter the asphalt, the louder the rattling noise.

T5 wrote:

Where does the temperature dependence come from? Something like - the hotter the asphalt, the louder the rattling noise.

Well, because the outer part of the joint is closest to the brake disc and it heats up more than the "center" (physics and reality), and at that time even more play is created on the driveshaft / wheel. If you have a spray freezer, then during the loudest work / knock, I recommend that you cool the outer part of the joint quite strongly (the one that you put on the flexible cover) of the joint and perform a test drive. It should be quiet for a while.
As for lubrication and washing, I will say that if the joint is already "clattering", nothing will help it!

Hello, often the reason for such a knock is a sharp hitting the curbstone or something similar and bad luck that at this point it will hit the ball perpendicularly and it will squeeze a hole, and knock only in the setting of the hit, I have already met a few such joints and replaced them, and the tapping one I dismantled and only under the glass it was visible, and washing and cleaning the joint and reassembling it is unprofitable and dirty , the joints do not cost money.

wopor I know that they do not cost a fortune, but I am looking (and not only me) for a method to find out which clicks it is.
Not so long ago, I found out in a car that it was the left side. I replaced it with a new one and a dup ... So I quickly put the left side on the right side (I put a new one on the left side) and it helped.
zeimp My dear friend, the discs are unlikely to heat up when driving on the motorway.




And today the t5 driveshaft has been replaced.
Maybe you have a link to a page on a similar topic.

I will come back to the topic, because after reading the posts, I have some unusual symptoms. It's not a knock-knock. On twisted wheels, I can hear and feel like I'm driving on a coarse grater. Something like running into the stripes painted with structural paint. About 2 weeks ago I attacked the curb with my left wheel too hard. What do you think about this situation? greet

hipeck wrote:

What do you think about this situation?

We think that without checking exactly what has broken, it is a wish for everything and nothing! You have to check, fix and that's it - don't philosophize!