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Immergas Nike Star 24 3E Gas Furnace: Domestic Water Heating Issues in Summer Mode & Sensor

pablo732 13482 16
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16288099
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    Hello, I would like to ask for help. I am the owner of the Immergas Nike Star 24 3E gas furnace and for several days I have a problem with domestic water heating, central heating is ok. I noticed that the problem only appears when the stove is not working, i.e. it is switched to summer mode or is not working at the moment, because the room controller turned it off. After unscrewing the tap water, the stove turns on and turns off immediately for 2-3 seconds. The professional replaced the wu temperature sensor and it did nothing. I am asking for any suggestion.
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  • #2 16288506
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    It looks like a faulty water flow sensor. It happens in this model, and sometimes it manifests similarly.
    Is the tap symbol on the display when the water is drained and the boiler is not working?
    Are they not displayed in any error codes?
    When the boiler is turned off for central heating, cooled down, what temperature does it show on the display when water is released and the boiler does not work? Enter the temperature that is displayed after a few seconds of draining.
    Greetings.
  • #3 16288640
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    - yes-tap is displayed
    - no error codes are displayed
    - when the furnace has cooled down (it did not work for about 30 min - temperature on the display 34 degrees), the "umbrella" operating mode after unscrewing the tap the display indicated 20 degrees and the temperature began to drop to 9 degrees after which the stove turns on for about a second for high power and disconnects (the temperature on the furnace increases to about 20 degrees) and so over and over again, the running water cools down to 9 degrees followed by switching on the furnace heating the water to about 20 degrees and disconnecting
    I noticed that when the oven was hot (but it did not work in the heating mode CO) everything was OK - he heated the water, as soon as he got a bit cold the problem returned
    what does the water flow sensor look like and where is it located?
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  • #4 16288795
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    In view of the above, it is possible to exclude a water flow sensor because the request for DHW is active (the tap symbol is constantly displayed). Unless the flow sensor pauses every few seconds for a moment (a fraction of a second). It's easy to check.
    The flow sensor is located at the cold water inlet to the boiler, at the very bottom of the boiler. It is a plastic element, and a copper tube is screwed from above. Two wires come to the sensor. You need to let the water run, short the lines and see if the problem persists. During the test, when the sensor wires are shorted, do not turn off the water.

    Another reason that can cause this symptom is a malfunction of the temperature sensor on the main exchanger (not on DHW). The main exchanger (coil) for DHW heating can warm up to a higher temperature than for CH and the temperature sensor may get a break for a short time at a higher temperature, that the boiler will not have time to display the error and the burner will be turned off. Such temperature sensor defects also happen, although in this boiler model it is rare.

    Write also what is your electronic board in the boiler - B&P or NORDGAS?

    Also pay attention to the display backlight, whether the network is continuous or flickering very quickly (about 50 times per second), such flickering may be visible.
    Also observe this backlighting if it flickers when the hot water boiler starts for that second. To force highlighting, press briefly eg: "up arrow" button on the left.
    Greetings.
  • #5 16288904
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    first of all, THANK YOU for such a great commitment and I answer:
    - the disc is NORDGAS;
    - the backlight is always on;
    - after checking according to recommendations, it appears that the sensor is functional, after bridging the problem remained.
  • #6 16289005
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    pablo732 wrote:
    the record is NORDGAS
    Unfortunately, I was afraid of that. The small series of these boilers had these plates factory-fitted. In the rest of the series, and as a spare part, there is a B&P board.
    Unfortunately, NORTGAS discs sometimes get so damaged that they give very strange various symptoms (software damage).
    Most likely, unfortunately, a damaged disc.

    Have you never had any of these symptoms:
    - The boiler turned itself off "on the display two cons", or switched itself to summer or winter?
    - The temperature set on the hot utility water or central heating boiler itself is usually maximum?

    It still remains to be hoped that a damaged sensor, as I described in the previous post, but in the case of this disc - rather a disc.
    Is that sensor still in use or is it already thrown away?

    Still disconnect and unplug all plugs in the boiler (cable harness connections to the electronic board and boiler sensors) to make sure that everything connects (it happened that something did not connect, and sometimes there were various strange symptoms, and such an operation helped).

    Has the boiler been switched off for at least 10 minutes?
    If not, then do it. Sometimes the software hangs, and after such a shutdown the problem disappears forever.

    Is the boiler under warranty?

    Greetings.
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  • #7 16289221
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    The oven has never deviated from the norm before. I turned it off for 20 minutes but it also did nothing, I also checked the connections of the board with the other components and nothing. Kocił is no longer under warranty.
  • #8 16289272
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    pablo732 wrote:
    Kocił is no longer under warranty.
    It is a pity, because usually such strange unusual symptoms, it is a disc fault in the case of NORDGAS, and it goes without warranty.


    I assume that the boiler is clean, properly adjusted, the cables in the boiler are not damaged, burned, etc.


    From experience I know that usually the problem with DHW is associated with a flow sensor or temperature sensors. Flow sensor excluded, moreover, the symptoms described in your second post do not match.
    Stoning or obstructing the DHW circuit can also be ruled out - not these symptoms. Unless the exchanger is overgrown on the central heating circuit and overheats at higher burner power, as it works on hot water, but then there should also be problems with working on central heating. In the event of limescale, there should also be noises indicating this: in the kettle, knocking, etc.

    To these symptoms can be pulled up this temperature sensor on the exchanger (coil) of the boiler. If at a higher temperature it gets a temporary break, or short circuit, or its characteristics are broken, then the burner can be turned off without reporting the fault by the boiler. I have encountered such a sensor fault causing similar symptoms.
    If you have this sensor that was exchanged for hot water, replace it for testing on the boiler exchanger (the fixing plate is a little tighter but can be fastened) and check for the same symptoms.

    What else can cause the burner to switch off without reporting the fault by the boiler.
    Temporary interruption in the safety thermostat circuits (chimney draft thermostat and STB thermostat on the boiler exchanger). Very short breaks extinguish the burner, and the boiler may not report an error, and after a few seconds the burner fires again, and so on.
    Similar symptoms are given by short breaks in the gas valve coil circuits.
    These elements are common for CH and DHW, and the problem occurs only on DHW, but this does not exclude these elements, because when the boiler starts working on DHW, it usually works with more power, and heats up to a higher temperature, and thermal faults of the sensors and protections can only be revealed at higher temperatures, so the problem can only occur on hot water

    And what does the ignition-ionization electrode look like? Is it clean, not bent or scorched, etc.? Does this electrode not come out of the flame, as the burner goes into more power? Maybe the problem is on the side of the electrode, which loses ionization, as the burner goes into more power for hot water

    On the left side at the bottom of the boiler you have a gas valve. Cables come to him. One lower black is thicker with a plug, and two thin on top of the gas valve connected to the sleeves. Disconnect one of these sleeves for testing, and check if the boiler still behaves the same way. After disconnecting this lead, the burner will operate only with minimal power.

    And whether there was certainly a case of spontaneous switching off, switching the boiler to a different mode of operation, or changing the set temperature, because usually NORDGAS plate defects are accompanied by such symptoms, but this is not a rule.

    Greetings.
  • #9 16301747
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    Hello, again today I changed the plate, then the same symptom, according to your suggestion, I made the test by disconnecting the wire at the gas valve, after unscrewing the tap, the stove goes without disconnecting !!! but of course he is not able to heat the water now because he works at the lowest power. So the fault may be on the electrode side ??? Regards

    Added after 1 [hours] 17 [minutes]:

    I cleaned the electrode, it is unlikely to be broken. Can the electrode efficiency be somehow tested?
  • #10 16302528
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.

    Therefore, the electronic board can be excluded.
    Disconnecting the modulation coil on the gas valve removes the problem, except that the boiler works only with minimal power. This confirms that the problem is associated with an increase in temperature, or loss of ionization current, as the flame on the burner increases.
    As for the electrode, I haven't encountered a broken electrode in this model, and it is rather difficult for this to happen. The control of the ionization electrode is done to some extent by measuring the ionization current, but in this model of the boiler this is not possible because it is a common ignition-ionization electrode.
    If the surface of the electrode is deep oxidized, this can be a problem. Desirable cleaning, e.g. with a cleaner (cloth) for cleaning copper pipes before soldering, in such cases usually helps for some time.
    Incorrect electrode positioning is more likely.
    The electrode is bent, and its end should be half the width of a single torch element, at a distance from its surface about 3.5mm.
    Another thing is the burner clean (oblong holes on its surface)?
    It may also be that the flame breaks away from the surface of the burner as its power increases. This can happen if the nozzle is stuck.
    Maybe the coil is dirty, the passage from the exhaust side is blocked, which puts the flame on the surface of the burner, and thus the loss of ionization current. A similar situation can take place with reverse.

    However, I would be more likely to damage the temperature sensor on the exchanger (coil), which gets a short break, or breaks its characteristics briefly after exceeding a certain temperature. I have encountered such a sensor defect many times and similar symptoms, although in this boiler model the sensor defect is a rarity so far, but it is not excluded. That is why I proposed to install this sensor from the hot water exchange

    There may be one more defect, namely a short break in the circuit of the gas valve modulating coil, although defects of these coils are rare. In this boiler model, such momentary breaks in the circuit of this coil cause the burner to quench. During the test, when this coil was disconnected, the boiler operated without a problem.

    Still such a question. What gas is this boiler operating on?

    Greetings.
  • #11 16302589
    bro2004
    Level 30  
    The coil needs to be replaced - as for the min, and the main one does not open ...

    Or measure the resistance on the coils of the gas assembly it will exclude it. I don't know what SIT goes there.
  • #12 16304935
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    bro2004 wrote:
    The coil needs to be replaced - as for the min, and the main one does not open ...
    Don't let a friend say nothing. If the main coil was damaged, it wouldn't fire at all. If anything, the modulation coil is damaged, although this is very unlikely.
    In addition, buddy read the whole thread, because the problem is something else, and the boiler worked only with minimal power, because for testing purposes, the modulation coil was intentionally disconnected!


    Buddy pablo732, if you have the opportunity, make a video of the boiler's operation from the whole cycle, it is the firing of the burner, temporary work, break, repeated firing, until the next turn off the burner. Film so that you can see the flame and the ignition ionization electrode. And the second film from the same cycle, only the boiler display, so that you can see what is displayed on it.

    Greetings.
  • #13 16306724
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    I have the impression that after cleaning and setting the electrode (it was slightly bent), the furnace performs better, there is one regularity, i.e. when it cools down it starts to have symptoms as I described earlier, while when the temperature is about 30 and above it works fine. One more remark came to my mind: the stove heats the tap water less than it used to be, the service technician recommended to stifle the pressure a little because the boiler is not able to heat at high flow (previously it managed). Maybe there is some connection between these two things. I will make a movie but I am waiting for the furnace to cool down. The boiler runs on natural gas. Regards
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  • #14 16354816
    pablo732
    Level 10  
    Hello, only today I was able to record a video, as you can see with the power of four dashes, the stove switches off (in snowman mode, it runs smoothly at such power, but the boiler needs to warm up a little), the temperature on the stove drops to about 10 degrees and turns on again for a short time . [film: 8526aa3064] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/43_1489856368.mp4 [/ film: 8526aa3064]
    [Film: 8526aa3064] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/13_1489856819.mp4 [/ film: 8526aa3064]
  • #15 16415910
    piotr_first
    Level 11  
    Hello,

    Were you able to fix the fault? I have a similar problem:

    I have an EOLO STAR boiler for two years, unfortunately it's Christmas now, and the boiler has caught a fault. The problem is under-heating of DHW and CH water. Setting 50 degrees, temperature with the tap 25-30 degrees off. No error message appears on the oven display. The burner lights up every time, but only the flame icon appears on the display. There were always bars indicating the power of heating next to the icon. Currently, no additional bar appears. It looks like the boiler is working at a minimum, without increasing the gas dose. The boiler has been cleaned, the furnace and blower. The cable plugs have been disconnected and connected to clean the contacts. The blower runs smoothly without jams. The central heating pump is activated when heating water on radiators, but there is the same effect that it does not heat the water (heating with a minimum flame). Clock pressure 1-1.5 bar. Increasing the heating parameters on the temperature controller does not change the boiler operation. Resetting with the button, the power supply does not bring anything. This morning, the stove started to heat, but in the last two days the fault occurs accidentally.

    What could the reason be? Nights are cool and the lack of hot usable water is a nuisance. I am asking for help in diagnosis. The situation occurs in both CO and DHW modes, as the furnace began to operate also in both modes. So it's probably not a temperature sensor in my case. As if the gas valve did not open completely. What voltage is the coil being controlled? After disconnecting both coil wires, could the external coil power be connected to check the function of the valve itself?
  • #16 16418338
    Rysio4001
    Heating systems specialist
    Hello.
    As for the author of the topic, in parallel with his last post in the topic, I got the same as in the post, at PW. My answer to PW was:
    quotation:
    "In one of the movies you can see, as if the flame went out for a moment while extinguishing, reappeared for a moment, and went out again. Is this really the case or is it the only way it is seen in the film?"

    In response, I received that the combustion chamber insulation was slid, and after putting it in the right place, the problem resolved. I don't know more details, because the author of the topic has not written anything yet.
    This reason also matches the symptoms of the author of the topic, because the sliding of, for example, the front insulation plate, could lead to improper flame formation on the burner, and as a result the loss of ionization current at higher boiler power. Which is surprising to me that there was a serviceman on site and did not notice it.

    Buddy piotr_first I invite you here:
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3330843.html#16415259#16415259

    Greetings.
  • #17 20568156
    prsp
    Level 12  
    I do not know if anyone else will be interested, but I had the same problem as pablo732 and I checked all the elements that Rysio4001 indicated in this thread, including verifying the correct arrangement of the insulation.
    The reason was trivial. Dried capacitor C6 4.7uF/100V, which reacted to the increase in temperature and worked when its temperature increased to about 30 degrees Celsius. When it was cooler, the stove behaved as in the described thread, working only on CO in the first phase. Only when the electronics warmed up, the DHW circuit also worked correctly.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around issues with the Immergas Nike Star 24 3E gas furnace, specifically regarding domestic water heating in summer mode. The owner reports that while central heating functions correctly, the furnace fails to heat water when not actively running. Symptoms include the furnace turning on briefly when water is drawn, but then shutting off immediately. Various components were examined, including the water flow sensor and temperature sensors, with some replacements made, but the problem persisted. Suggestions included checking the positioning and condition of the ignition electrode, as well as potential issues with the electronic control board. A user later identified a faulty capacitor as the root cause of similar symptoms, which only manifested at lower temperatures. The discussion highlights the importance of thorough diagnostics and component checks in resolving heating issues.
Summary generated by the language model.
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