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Immergas Combi Oven: Frequent Cleaning Needed Due to Green-White Precipitate on Heat Exchanger

Ursus81 13917 15
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  • #1 16804352
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    Hello all,
    I have a problem with the Immergas combi oven, which is two years old and I am looking for advice. The furnace was assembled by the installer, and had acceptance after assembly.
    Every six months the oven needs cleaning. A green-white precipitate regularly forms on the heat exchanger (it seems to be the correct name). The effect is always the same, i.e. the first symptoms of this phenomenon are ash particles appearing under the furnace. Then, but only after the evening baths, i.e. when the stove works with increased power (heating alone does not cause such effects), the carbon monoxide sensor begins to activate. After a few more days, in the same circumstances, the stench of flue gas begins to feel, and after a few more days, the stove begins not to heat up the domestic water.
    After removing it, you can find a lot of ash inside, which I believe burns on the burners and hence the smell of exhaust gases and activation of the carbon monoxide sensor. It is necessary to clean the heat exchanger, which is clogged with this ash and sediment, which probably causes reduced heating efficiency, and after cleaning it is calm for half a year, after which the situation repeats for the fourth time ...
    Can anyone give you a hint what could be the reason for this?
    I would add that earlier in the same place and the same installation was installed an old gas furnace, still with a "candle", which was several years old and there were no such problems.
    Thank you in advance for your help.
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  • #2 16804405
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #3 16806216
    dobroslaw

    Level 22  
    Posts: 307
    Help: 57
    Rate: 155
    Do you have propane or network gas? see what is written on the nameplate, what kind of gas, what type of furnace with closed or open chamber, give the model where it is installed, is there a mechanical air extraction in the room, is there an air intake and a ventilation grille?
    Company Account:
    Term Klima serwis De Dietrich Białystok
    białystok słowackiego 7, Białystok, 15-229 | Tel.: 500XXXXXX (Show)
  • #4 16810494
    kasprzyk
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 5595
    Help: 354
    Rate: 669
    And at what temperature does CO work? (which one do you have?)
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  • #5 16814466
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    I apologize for the delay caused by my trip. I am already answering the questions:
    - the furnace model is NIKE STAR 24 3 E,
    - the furnace is connected to the network installation and is intended for natural gas supply,
    - open combustion chamber,
    - the furnace is installed in a utility room with an area of about 18 sq m, a ventilation hole (gravitational ventilation) is located in the ceiling about 1 m from the furnace, there is an air intake directly under the furnace,
    - set temperature: utility water 45 degrees C, heating 55 degrees C.
  • #6 16814664
    dobroslaw

    Level 22  
    Posts: 307
    Help: 57
    Rate: 155
    From the description, it looks ok and there is nothing to fault, maybe not enough air from the intake, or a stuck chimney, a bird is sitting, since the type of gas is ok, only the local vision of the brave technician stays. what does yellow flame and high tongues look like or low and blue ones?
    Company Account:
    Term Klima serwis De Dietrich Białystok
    białystok słowackiego 7, Białystok, 15-229 | Tel.: 500XXXXXX (Show)
  • #7 16816329
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    To tell the truth, I don't see a flame. Even if I remove the casing, you can only look inside the nozzle chamber through a small hole. The flame is blue, but its height is difficult for me to say.
    The chimney is unobstructed, I checked and cleaned the cleaner. As for the amount of air from the intake, I have no doubt about that - I feel a clear inflow of air all the time. The service technician during the last visit even said that it can be closed down a bit, because it only cools us down the room and generally the layout and location of the room according to him does not cause the risk of too low air supply. Anyway, I clean the stove for the fourth time, for the first year the intake was open for full and the same effect. Then for the second year the intake was open to the minimum and the effect was the same - cleaning the oven every six months.
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  • #8 16816569
    zybie
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1207
    Help: 133
    Rate: 753
    You checked if the chimney has a draft and how big it is.
  • #9 16820721
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    The chimney had a review made by a chimney sweep shortly before assembling the stove, which I now have a problem with. In addition to cleaning, the string was to be checked. I was not in person, but the result was positive. I assume that since the chimney is now unobstructed (checked), the sensor starts to turn on (and you feel the fumes) as the stove is extremely dirty (once every six months), and before that for several years an old gas stove was connected to it and it was ok, I think it has the required parameters. Nothing around the chimney was changed or changed.
  • #10 16821059
    kasprzyk
    Electrician specialist
    Posts: 5595
    Help: 354
    Rate: 669
    What surface does the boiler heat? Type of installation, what radiators?
  • #11 16825195
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    The furnace heats an area of 100 sq m. All radiators are panel mounted. I do not know how to determine the type of installation ... possibly a hint.
  • #12 16826324
    mirrzo

    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 7654
    Help: 441
    Rate: 2606
    Insert a photo of this ash.
    Company Account:
    EURO-DOM
    Krótka, Elbląg, 82-300
  • #13 16834774
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    This is how it looks.
    After removing the housing, the inside is full of ash such as at the pump. In addition, the heat exchanger is covered with greenish-white coating, which is as if peeling and burning on burners. Generally, in the final "phase", the gaps between the fins of the exchanger are full of such ash / muck and the heating efficiency decreases significantly. As normal, without changing the parameters on the stove, I heat the water to a temperature at which it is already brewing me, so it is at most very warm. After cleaning, i.e. after pushing through these gaps, everything returns to normal - for half a year :) .

    Immergas Combi Oven: Frequent Cleaning Needed Due to Green-White Precipitate on Heat Exchanger Immergas Combi Oven: Frequent Cleaning Needed Due to Green-White Precipitate on Heat Exchanger Immergas Combi Oven: Frequent Cleaning Needed Due to Green-White Precipitate on Heat Exchanger
  • #14 16836216
    mirrzo

    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Posts: 7654
    Help: 441
    Rate: 2606
    Straighten the fins of the exchanger, because now the exhaust gases have a difficult flow. The second thing is not enough combustion air, as evidenced by these black particles. The burner (mixing chamber) must be perfectly clean and adjust the parameters at max and min power.
    Company Account:
    EURO-DOM
    Krótka, Elbląg, 82-300
  • #15 16836254
    Ursus81
    Level 11  
    Posts: 32
    Help: 1
    Rate: 8
    I always try to straighten the slats after cleaning.
    Since I am not a professional, I will pass your comments to some smarter installer, because parameter adjustment seems to be a task for someone who knows about it. The whole story is that the furnace is not my property (rented premises) and the owner's trusted installer says everything is ok :-) . I live well with the owner, so I wanted to gather some information and arguments to discuss myself to convince him that, however, I think everything is not right, because he does not have even the slightest insight into such topics.
  • #16 18729713
    Michał643
    Level 26  
    Posts: 640
    Help: 98
    Rate: 169
    I apologize for reheating the topic, but in my case these green and white particles came from an aluminum spiro tube. This pipe is not intended for gas furnaces, because it strongly corrodes, but I currently have one. So it can happen that the particles formed in this way from the spiro tube fall onto the exchanger or nozzles. Every half a year I vacuum the nozzles and the exchanger, because there were explosive ignition caused by the nozzles being strewn around the spark gap

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around issues faced with an Immergas NIKE STAR 24 3 E combi oven, which requires cleaning every six months due to a recurring green-white precipitate on the heat exchanger. Symptoms include ash accumulation, activation of the carbon monoxide sensor, and a noticeable smell of flue gas, particularly after high-demand usage. Participants suggest potential causes such as incorrect gas nozzle types, insufficient combustion air, and chimney draft issues. The user confirms the furnace is connected to natural gas and has an open combustion chamber, with adequate ventilation. Despite regular maintenance, the problem persists, leading to concerns about the efficiency and safety of the unit. Recommendations include checking the combustion air supply, ensuring the burner is clean, and possibly adjusting gas pressure settings by a qualified technician.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: If your Immergas combi (e.g., NIKE STAR 24 3 E) needs cleaning every 6 months, suspect airflow, deposits, or duct corrosion; “aluminum spiro tube … strongly corrodes.” [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18729713]

Why it matters: Frequent fouling leads to CO alarms, poor DHW performance, and risky ignition events. This FAQ is for tenants, owners, and techs troubleshooting green‑white residue, ash, and recurring cleanings.

Quick Facts

Why is there a green‑white precipitate on my Immergas heat exchanger?

Users traced green‑white flakes to corrosion of an aluminum spiro exhaust duct. The corrosion products drop onto the exchanger and burners, forming deposits that char into ash. Replace any non‑rated aluminum spiro with a proper flue component. As one poster notes, “aluminum spiro tube … strongly corrodes,” leading to recurring fouling and ignition issues. Cleaning helps temporarily, but source elimination fixes recurrence. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18729713]

Is cleaning every six months normal for this boiler?

No. Semiannual tear‑downs suggest an upstream issue, not normal wear. In the thread, owners report needing to vacuum nozzles and the exchanger about every six months only when a corroding aluminum spiro duct sheds debris. Address the root cause (ducting, air, gas setup) to extend intervals. Routine annual service is typical, but twice‑yearly deep cleans indicate a fault or misapplication. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18729713]

Could wrong gas nozzles or pressure cause soot and ash?

Yes. A technician flagged symptoms consistent with mismatched nozzles for the gas type or incorrect gas pressure. Both conditions skew combustion, increasing soot and residue. Do not DIY gas adjustments. Schedule a qualified service visit to verify injector size and set pressures at minimum and maximum output. “Better not risk it,” as the poster advises. [Elektroda, 762302, post #16804405]

Why does the CO alarm trigger after evening baths or high DHW demand?

During long, hot showers the boiler fires harder. Any blocked fins, falling duct corrosion, or dirty burner increases incomplete combustion. Owners noticed the alarm only under high DHW load, progressing to flue smell and DHW failure as fouling worsened. Restoring clear exchanger passages and clean ignition/combustion zones resolves the sequence. Document events to share with your technician. [Elektroda, Ursus81, post #16804352]

How do I safely clean the exchanger and burner when ash builds up?

  1. Power off and cool. Remove casing. Vacuum loose ash around nozzles and exchanger.
  2. Gently straighten bent fins to restore exhaust flow. Do not puncture or deform tubes.
  3. Clean burner/mixing chamber, then have a pro adjust min/max gas settings. This restores airflow and flame quality, but address upstream causes to prevent repeat fouling. [Elektroda, mirrzo, post #16836216]

What does a correct flame look like on this open‑chamber model?

A healthy flame appears low and blue. A yellow, tall, or lazy flame suggests poor air, fouled burner, or gas setup issues. A contributor asked whether the flame was yellow and high or low and blue to guide diagnosis. If viewing is difficult, prioritize cleaning, airflow checks, and professional adjustment. [Elektroda, dobroslaw, post #16814664]

Could ventilation or chimney draft be the problem?

Yes. The room needs reliable air intake and clear gravity ventilation, and the flue must draft correctly. One helper requested details on gas type, chamber type, installation model, and whether mechanical extraction or grills were present to assess air supply. Verify intake openings and have draft measured by a pro. [Elektroda, dobroslaw, post #16806216]

My installer says air intake can be partly closed—should I?

Be cautious. An owner reported advice to reduce intake because the room was cooling, yet fouling recurred every six months regardless of intake position. Limiting air can worsen combustion quality. Keep dedicated combustion air available and fix root causes like duct corrosion or gas setup. [Elektroda, Ursus81, post #16816329]

What’s a spiro tube, and does it belong on a gas boiler flue?

A spiro tube is a spiral‑wound flexible duct, often aluminum. A user found an aluminum spiro used on the boiler flue corroded rapidly, shedding green‑white debris onto the exchanger and nozzles. Replace such ducting with flue components rated for gas appliances to stop contamination and ignition issues. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18729713]

What system details were reported in this case?

The setup: Immergas NIKE STAR 24 3 E, open chamber, natural gas, DHW 45°C, CH 55°C. The home had a utility room installation with intake below the boiler and ceiling ventilation nearby. These specifics help techs match parts and settings during diagnosis. Share them when booking service. [Elektroda, Ursus81, post #16814466]

How large an area did the boiler heat, and what emitters?

One owner heated about 100 m² with panel radiators. This context suggests the unit size is broadly appropriate, so recurrent fouling likely stems from combustion air, flue materials, or gas setup rather than chronic oversizing alone. Provide area and emitter types when consulting service. [Elektroda, Ursus81, post #16825195]

When should I call a licensed service technician?

Immediately if you see ash buildup, smell flue gases, or your CO alarm triggers. A contributor emphasized that nozzle selection and gas pressure setting are not DIY tasks. Book professional calibration at minimum and maximum power after cleaning and airflow restoration. Safety first. [Elektroda, 762302, post #16804405]

Why straighten bent heat‑exchanger fins?

Bent fins restrict flue gas paths, raising backpressure and promoting incomplete combustion and soot. A technician recommended straightening fins, cleaning the burner/mixing chamber, and adjusting gas at min/max. This reduces deposits and CO alarms under high DHW load. Use a fin comb and gentle pressure. [Elektroda, mirrzo, post #16836216]

I’m a tenant. How can I document issues to convince the owner/installer?

Log dates of CO alarms, flue smells, DHW failures, and cleaning intervals. Photograph ash around the pump and exchanger fins after removing the housing. One tenant gathered evidence to discuss with the owner and installer when reassurances conflicted with recurring faults. Clear records speed resolution. [Elektroda, Ursus81, post #16836254]

What failure risks occur if I ignore the debris?

Fouling progressed to flue odors, CO alarm activation, and finally DHW heating failure in the reported case. Another user reported explosive ignitions when debris covered nozzles and the spark gap. Address deposits and replace corrosive ducting promptly to avoid hazardous starts. [Elektroda, Michał643, post #18729713]
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