21 m3 Gas Consumption for Heating 139m2 House Daily: Brotje Energy Top 24 TE Stove Experience

Speaking of projects, etc. Before handing over the building, you were from energy certificates, asked a few questions about the insulation of walls, foundations, windows, etc. After that, did you take the project and come back in a few days with a nice document about the house's ilolation and energy demand in my house. His calculations showed that I would pay about PLN 9,000 for gas annually (internal temperature 20C). After the last 4 months, I can see from mid-October that he used gas for PLN 1,500. My forecasts indicate an annual cost in the range of PLN 4,000-4500, although I have no idea how to count warm periods.

Jarsey wrote:

Hello, it seems to me that a bit of a lot. In my house, net 150m2, I heat up and down at 21 degrees, 5 hours at night at 19.5. The amount of gas burned is 11.5-12.5 m3. Night -19C, day -13C.
I think you need to adjust the furnace settings, controls, flows. I have been struggling with it for 3 months since I lived in my new home. 9 meters3 earlier he could burn me at day 8C, night 3C.

well, at these temperatures it burned me about 900 m3 in 2 months, so a "slight" difference :(

Jarsey wrote:

I would like to add that I do not have any recuperation, etc. news. Also, let me add that this house is one big thermal bridge. At -18C frost, I borrowed a thermal imaging camera, I flew inside and out of the house. Massacre entrance door, garage door as well. I do not heat the garage, so on the camera I saw bricks between the garage and the living room. I still have some work to do.

I don't heat the garage either, the vestibule, which is at the garage level, is separated from the side of the uninhabited half of the twin only by a concrete block and this wall is freezing ... there is floor standing in the vestibule.
In the residential part, I am separated from my neighbor by a 24 cm silicate brick, so it does not pull like a concrete block, but it also does its job, because the rooms next to the other half cool down very quickly when heated, other rooms without "cold" walls keep the temperature longer.

There is nothing for me to do but wait until someone moves in next door and starts to heat up. Because at the moment, controlling the temperature in one daughter's room and keeping there 20.5 degrees in the living room in the morning, I have 16.5 degrees ((

However, I have a question ... because I searched a lot on the Internet and I can't find the parameters of my furnace regarding maximum and minimum splitting ... other data are available, but apart from these two pieces of information ..
I am asking because at the time when the water in the system was hot and the stove was only supposed to maintain its temperature (the return water was about 5 degrees lower), the stove burned 1.2 m3 per hour for me .. I wonder if this is the norm :)

greetings

Michael

I have a house of 136 m3 in terraced houses. Neighbors live on both sides. Currently, the stove burns 20 m3 of gas in the same way. I paid PLN 1,450 for December and January. temperature 20-21 degrees at the top, 17-16 at the bottom. I rather think about adding a coal stove through a heat exchanger.

Mr. Michal,

Unfortunately, I have not found any information about the combustion of your stove. However, it seems to me that the nominal power range of this furnace is small. The minimum power of the stove is above 9kW, in my case it is above 4kW. From my observations, I notice that my stove works with higher power only at the start, then it goes into a much lower power operation, operating cyclically, the so-called timing. As if it keeps the temperature in the radiators and the floor.

My sister, for example, also has a stove that works with more power, no condensation, the house is much smaller than mine, much less glazing (at the bottom there is> 50% of windows + in each room upstairs, a roof window, balcony), she has a house very well insulated, and pays the bills roughly the same as me.

And you will take a look at stoves from other manufacturers, how it is combustion depending on the power. It seems to me that there are no big differences. Alternatively, write an e-mail to the producer or distributor. And the best one should know who bought the stove.

Hello, I can see that this post is from 2012, I now have a problem with this stove, this month (for 1 month) I got a bill of PLN 400 (apartment 67m2 and set at 18.75 degrees) I'm afraid what it will be when the frosts come, although now we wear sweatshirts anyway) someone has already found a solution how to set this stove sparingly ??? help

Maybe I'll give you a little update after 2 years

After drying the building, the amount of gas burned dropped to 14-16 m3 in the frost that was a year ago.

Yesterday I invested in SALUS T105 temperature controllers to control heating loops because in total it unnecessarily maintains a constant temperature at home at night and when we are at work and school.

In the spring, he will write how much this contributed to the decrease in gas consumption.

The boiler works without any reservations, I visit it on average once a year ;)

Another reason for the high gas consumption is the 300L tank in the room next to the garage - it is there in winter around 6-10 degrees, which makes the boiler work more often to maintain the water temperature.

greetings
Flashman.

Grzegorz Siemienowicz wrote:

The C and D curves are the efficiencies for modern non-condensing gas boilers (the shape is approximate for virtually all brands).

In my opinion, this graph does not show that it is worth setting a high CO temperature for non-condensing furnaces.

It is important that such a furnace works with maximum power and the water in the central heating circuit has as little heat as possible to collect a lot of heat from the flame.

You would need to know what conditions are needed for the furnace to work at maximum power - I suspect that it is the difference between the central heating temperature and the set temperature.