Unexpected Voltage Between Protective and Neutral Conductors During Frame Replacement

Hey hey guys. I have a problem, it all started when I wanted to replace the frames in my contacts in the room. Everything is fine, of course, as an amateur, I turned off all the ESCs in the house and the residual current device - the entire box - separately, well, ok, I feel safe, I checked L1 to make sure there is no current, so I'll start. What did I feel when I touched the protective cable... a slight electric shock that made my wrist go numb for a moment... so I took a multimeter and checked in my room, what the hell was going on, I checked between L1 and 0, nothing... I checked between Protective - L1 nothing... I checked between Protective and 0 and there are volts! Well, my surprise was as great as the fact that I went to light it... I called the electrician, he came, played around, did some shamanic miracles, tightening everything in the switchboard and in the external box too. He said he could do it for me for PLN 1,500, by making pins in the ground or by making a "bandery" - he didn't even tell me what he would do with it and when he connected it, he said he would charge PLN 1,000 for the labor and PLN 500 for the pins, I think he was crazy. ..at this price? I'm a student, I work part-time, and my mother is retired, so there's not much money... so my question is why is there such a thing? After all, there should be no voltage between the protective and 0, but there is a voltage of up to 35v, how come? Everything would be fine if it weren't for my laptop, which I recently acquired, and my mother's TV... Colleagues, tell me what to do in such a situation? What could be the reason? Any suggestions? I'm counting on your help. Thank you in advance.

// I corrected the spelling and posted a normal topic. I hope that's correct.

Please use the correct technical unit symbols. Let me remind you that the volt has the following symbol: [V] and we write "volts" [retrofood]

I believe that the voltage you are measuring is the result of two problems:

1 - the grounding is ineffective or damaged, as mentioned (by the way, is this a block of flats or a detached house?)
2 - one of the devices you use has a puncture - I would bet on a refrigerator, washing machine, pump or other similar device.

As a first step, I would suggest finding this device. With the meter plugged in between the neutral cable and ground, turn off (physically disconnect from the socket) devices in your home one by one until the voltage disappears. If you find this device, it must be repaired and checked.

Good luck

PS The issue of grounding and its possible repair depends on the conditions in which you live (block of flat/tenement house/detached house)

And what are these new terms? Maybe you are developing a new dictionary? [retrofood]

Friend Polon_us...... I don't know about America, but in Poland, if you disconnect the entire box at home, even a broken fridge has nothing to do with it. Voltage should not reach ground.

My friend, parzoi, in my opinion, the voltage on the protective wire appears even in front of your apartment, this wire is not disconnected when the fuses are turned off.

Advice - call another electrician for diagnosis, the one you wrote about probably wants to overcharge you. If voltage gets on the PE cable outside your premises, the house administrator is responsible for it. Unless it's a private house.

True, I no longer remember the correct technical names used in Poland. I apologize for any confusion my poor technical vocabulary may have caused. I will try to educate myself on this topic. I instinctively used the names used in the US. So I won't interfere any further.

Good luck to my friend parzoi.

Hi. The house is a single-family house. So am I to understand that the fault lies not with the internal switchboard but with the one outside - where the meters are located?
And I don't really understand the question: what type of network? If I would like to find out what inquiry should I call Energia? Just as a formality, I would like everything to be fine and not that I have to unplug all the appliances at night so as not to burn anything. Thank you greetings.

Why do people do things they have no idea about?
Regards, hey hey.

Don't worry about the equipment, but about the safety of its users.
It is highly recommended to check the SWZ condition.
At the beginning of.

If it was for me, maybe it was because I want to have the home network installation in OK condition, if I don't know about the electrician.


/You mean, my friend, about turning it off on your own, right? I know that they bridged the N with the Protective and the residual current circuit breaker did not allow switching on the electricity in the switchboard, and the L1 connection with the Protective was working by knocking out the Eska, that's what I noticed when they were looking there.

I removed the information that was irrelevant from the first post.

parzoi wrote:

... Everything is fine, of course, as an amateur, I turned off all the ESCs in the house and the differential current device too... . What did I feel when I touched the protective cable... a slight caress of electricity that made my wrist go numb for a moment... so I took a multimeter and checked in my room, what the hell was going on, I checked between L1 and 0, nothing... I checked between Protective - L1 nothing... I checked between Protective and 0 and there are volts! ... After all, there should be no voltage between the protective and 0, but there is a voltage of up to 35v, how come?

I don't know where my friend measured these voltages, but I assume it was behind the differential.
The result is the same as the instrument used and says nothing about the installation.
As for the electrician's offer, it doesn't sound serious.

The building is new and probably does not have main equalization connections.

Hello, I am asking for an installation diagram, there are too many discrepancies to help you. In general, the situation in single-family buildings is unprecedented. When it comes to multi-family buildings, it is quite common. Mark on the diagram where the power supply (meter) is located and what cable the switchboard is powered by (5 or 4 wires). You write about a residual current device, and then that the electrician suggests a strange grounding device.

Quote:

You write about a residual current circuit breaker, and then that the electrician suggests a strange grounding device.

What's so strange about that?

Sorry, guys, unfortunately the energy has changed and when I called, no one wants to answer Bronek's question, so I will have to personally go there and ask what type of connections it is. As for this question, how can I know whether 4 or 5 were alive? But the topic is still alive, if I ask these assholes from Wejherowo, I will let you know...

Quote:

...if TN-S then the distribution point is grounded and so on. Gentlemen, read

I read and read and I haven't come across anything like this.
So maybe my friend will point out such an order.

Protection against electric shock in low voltage networks according to the SEP 4.3 p3 prestandard

Moderated By kkas12:

Warning No. 1 for persistent misleading consisting in providing false information about the supposedly applicable order to ground the PEN division site. Additionally, my colleague refers to the standard
N SEP-E-004. Power and signaling cable lines. Design and construction ,
which, as you can see, concerns cable lines, not installations, and is not included in the list of referenced standards and, moreover, does not contain such "orders".