Soften Old Rubber Hose: Techniques for Restoring Fuel Tank & Filler Flexibility

I have to remove the fuel tank and there is a flexible rubber hose connecting it
tank with a fuel filler. The problem is that the hose has lost its flexibility, and I am concerned that it will not be damaged during disassembly or
assembly. Maybe someone from the group has their own ways. I heard that
hot water helps.
Regards

Shouldn't it be replaced with a new one then? Yes for your own safety.

It is best to do this with a knife because such a broken rubber can be very dangerous. But if the rubber is ok, just heat it up a bit with warm air.

in my opinion - old rubber is only a knife and garbage ... unfortunately, it can break at the least appropriate moment ... and when you try to remove it, it will definitely break ..

As for that, pour kerosene on the rubber, it softens the rubber the most. Then, without fear, take off the snare.

no matter how you download it, it still needs to be replaced

If you knew how much this gum costs, I don't think one of you
to think about him, to take a knife in his hand.
The problem is that it's pressed tight.
Regards.

It's better to tell how much it costs or what car it's for and I'll tell you how much such rubber costs. And when it comes to softening, I would rather not recommend kerosene because it can permanently change the structure of the rubber!!!!!!!!!! And if it's cracked, just replace it!

Hello.
As the author writes, the rubber is between the tank and the fuel filler, so it is improved, oil-resistant and probably reinforced.
Pouring kerosene will do nothing, or even heating it "God forbid" next to the fuel tank, I would not recommend it, because it can be a big bummm .... :sm11: :sm11: :sm11:
There are many inexpensive hoses, ridiculously profiled and you can definitely steal something if the original is sooooo expensive.
Tell me what car is this???
Regards

replace nothing

maybe glycerin
it only takes a while but it is suitable for some genres,
I used glycerin to preserve the rubber at work to make it flexible.
like something you can buy at a pharmacy.

you can try it maybe it will help!!

Or how much will it cost you to buy a new car? How much will your life cost you? Does this interconnect cost so much money that it exceeds the cost of living? If this does not convince you, use NOVOGUM.

I fully agree with the previous post, what about the author of the post?
Regards

There is no urgency with this disassembly and therefore this post.
As for the explosion, it is diesel and HE is not so explosive.
This rubber joint is 150mm long, 45mm in diameter and has the shape of an accordion
you can buy it only on the website price PLN 200 with a hook, judge for yourself if it is expensive.
Regards.

And if so, what car is it???
Regards

If I were you, I'd try hot water or hot air, glycerin or kerosene, I wouldn't bother.
Regards

There are different types of rubber recently with a flashlight from China I had a rubber plug covering the switch. Pressing it was very tedious, because the rubber became hard, in my case THINNER for cellulose products RC-01 helped. After 30 minutes, the rubber became very soft and there was no problem with turning on the flashlight. 0.5 l costs about PLN 12. I also use this agent to clean PCBs from toner during thermal transfer and to clean deep dirt on plastics.

Moderated By T5:

Congrats on reviving an old one.
100 reward points.
3.1.19

.

Old topic, but maybe you can tell me how to effectively soften rubber gaskets. They come from an old car and are hardened and shrunk.
Kerosene or glycerin a good idea?

Silicone oil, but don't expect them to be like new.
V

I haven't heard of that. is it safe?

And what is sold and recommended as a maintenance agent for car door seals, especially in the winter?
Even the popular Plak for the cockpit is enough.
V

Silicone improves elasticity a bit, but not much, and you still need to restore the original dimensions. Old rubber shrinks.

On a certain forum, the guys mentioned "dechamiowanie" around the window seals in the car door-
- descaling with W5 from Lidl link
- polishing with any rubber-claener
- smear with tire dressing several times
The rubber is supposed to regain its softness, appearance ... As for the "swelling" to the denomination, I do not know
Maybe it's worth practicing on a patient, how old the car and parts for it in the original are difficult to buy?
V

Not so old E24 from 1987 but some of the seals are hard to come by. Not older 2800 from 1970 is waiting...

Well, it's not young either - I have W190 / W201 from the same year, there are also problems with similar elements - it's good to practice with the above method
V

I'll try and let you know.

I searched and it turns out that rubber is not equal to rubber, so the most important thing is to identify the material that each of us comes into contact with. The complexity of the chemical compounds from which these types of products are made is quite significant, which is why it is so important to find out about the type of material that we want to make more flexible, regenerate, etc. Such experiments at random will give some people the intended results, while others can worsen or even irreversibly damage a given material .

Gum

Info

Small correction about:

gradek83 wrote:

in my case THINNER for cellulose products RC-01 helped. After 30 minutes the gum became very soft

Everything above is correct, except that after the solvent has evaporated, the rubber changed its state to as hard as plastic, and when pressed harder, it cracked and crumbled. I was forced to replace the element with a new one because the rubber part from a glass pipette bought for pennies in a pharmacy was scratched.

Here we combine with seals, especially (I think) with those on which the window moves when raising and lowering - after years they are stiff as hell, hard too.
Silicone oil, applied many times, soaks into the rubber and softens it quite permanently, but here the type of rubber is quite special, mainly hard ...
V

vorlog wrote:

Here we combine with seals, especially (I think) with those on which the window moves when raising and lowering - after years they are stiff as hell, hard too.

Over time, technological processes have probably changed, what was used in old vehicles today can be said to be historic, as is certainly not the case with modern solutions. Now, from what I remember, apart from the rubber seal between the glass and the door body, etc., you can see a strip of hair attached to the rubber, I don't know what it's technically called, I know that the fluff is probably arranged to some extent when lifting the lowering so as to limit the access of water drops to center of the door and help reduce the friction of the glass against the rubber itself. In the old Seicento, I sometimes had a problem with wrapping the glass, which dragged the seal inside and blocked the glass, or simply the glass squeaked against the rubber, and when I tried to move the glass back up with the seal, it either came out or deformed and deformed. Probably the wiping of the aforementioned suede hairs had some influence on it. Such a gasket seems to me that it should be soft only on the longitudinal edge of contact with the glass, and the rest should be stiff enough to maintain the line of contact with the glass
One way or another, in fact, for older models of this type of parts, they are practically no longer produced and it remains to combine and look for other solutions.