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Determine Phase Consistency in 230V Sockets for House and Basement: LAN Network Setup

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How can I check whether the 230V phase in my apartment is the same as the phase in my basement for a powerline LAN connection?

Measure the voltage between the live conductor in the apartment and the live conductor in the basement with a proper voltmeter: if it is close to 0 V, it is the same phase, and if it is around 400 V, they are different phases [#11276091][#11276711] Do not use a light bulb for this test, because phase-to-phase voltage is 400 V and a bulb rated for 230/250 V can explode [#11289254][#11290403] If possible, ask an electrician or someone with access to the building distribution point, but the electrical measurement itself is the direct check [#11276711] For powerline networking, also note that the energy meter can be an obstacle; with an electronic meter the signal may pass differently than with an older current-coil meter [#11276685][#11284061]
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  • #1 11276027
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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  • #2 11276080
    farrix
    Level 17  
    Posts: 260
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    Take a long cable and connect a light bulb between the phase from the apartment and the one from the basement, if it shines brightly, then another one, if not, then the same one.

    I don't see an easier way.

    Moderated By retrofood:

    You will get a warning for the next time.

  • #3 11276091
    Fazi87
    Level 24  
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    The easiest way is to pull the extension cord to the basement and check the voltage between the phases. as it is close to zero it is the same, as it approaches 400V they are different phases.
  • #4 11276685
    robertamel
    Level 27  
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    The barrier for the LAN network via 230V sockets is the energy meter.
  • #5 11276711
    Gregory_bg
    Level 26  
    Posts: 775
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    If you can, ask an electrician in the cooperative, he should help you or you can measure yourself. Oh and don't use the method written by farrix! because he wrote about the measurement with a light bulb phase-to-phase voltage and these are 400 V and not 230 V
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  • #6 11277163
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #7 11277413
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    mjab wrote:
    I don't have access to the main fuse and electrical cabinet.
    mjab wrote:
    The electrician won't tell me anything because the development company collapsed right after the construction (i.e. 3 years ago)

    What about when the power goes down?
    Who will you call then???

    P.S. Why won't the number with the extension cord go through? There are 50 meter extension cords. Counting even 4 meters per floor, it is 20 meters.
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  • #8 11277493
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #9 11277525
    Ture11
    Level 39  
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    There is a chance that if you connect a 2kw heater in your apartment and ask someone for help, you will be able to tell if the light in the basement will dim when switching it on (the second person will be used for this). Whether this will be a determinant to determine the phases - I do not know. But maybe it's worth a try? I assume that you will connect a lamp to the socket in the basement (lighting and sockets may be on a different phase).
  • #10 11277531
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #11 11277542
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    mjab wrote:
    Only they have the keys to the lockers in the stairwell and the wardrobe in front of the block.

    I do not believe! While I can agree with the "cabinet in front of the block", the switchboards in the staircases are not in the jurisdiction of the ZE. In the contract for the supply of electricity, the ownership boundary is defined and only in some cases does it extend into the interior of the building.

    The fact that ZE carries out such an order in a few days does not surprise me at all - they do not remove the defect in yours network but in recipient's installation . By the way, ZE has appropriate price lists for such activities. I wonder who pays for it?
    Another thing is that I can't imagine how you can stay without power for 3-4 days. 8-O

    Ture11 wrote:
    There is a chance that if you connect a 2kw heater in your apartment and ask someone for help, you will be able to tell if the light in the basement will dim when switching it on (the second person will be used for this). Whether this will be a determinant to determine the phases - I do not know . But maybe worth a try?

    And if the light does not dim, it will mean a different phase??? Dude, if you don't know, don't advise.
  • #12 11278799
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #13 11278994
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    Maciej, colleague The author has rather no problem with running the LAN network with power cables. I think he has the subject thoroughly covered.
    The only problem is diagnosing whether the phase that powers his apartment is the same phase that powers his basement.
    So let's stick to the topic and provide the Author with information on how he can determine the homogeneity of the phase.
  • #14 11279157
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    mjab wrote:
    The number with the extension cord is unrealistic, I live on the 3rd floor and the basement is windowless.


    So what, no doors and stairs? After all, you somehow go from the apartment to the basement.
    Use the method indirectly. Sequentially search on the cage or neighbors of the same phase, and exclude others. Until you reach the basement.
  • #15 11279163
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #16 11279189
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    retrofood wrote:
    Sequentially search on the cage or neighbors of the same phase, and exclude others. Until you reach the basement.

    This may be too complicated for a computer scientist. ;)
  • #17 11280391
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #18 11280683
    maciej_333
    Level 38  
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    15kVmaciej wrote:
    ...
    3. "ringing" the line with a signal with a frequency that can be picked up at another point - such equipment is available, for example, in telephone operators and someone who can run a LAN network with power wires :D ...

    This idea is good. By using the LM567 chip (tone decoder) on the receiving side and a generator on the transmitting side, you can easily "admit" an additional signal to the network - eg a 1kHz sine. The LM567 will be able to detect this. Details are in the datasheet.
    In the past, there were also simple analog intercoms or paging systems - also based on LM567. Such a simple arrangement can be used for this.
  • #19 11280812
    Anonymous
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  • #20 11280846
    maciej_333
    Level 38  
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    Novile wrote:
    ... 2. There used to be 230V, but one ingenious neighbor drilled his floor and had 2 freezers for free at the cooperative's expense for several years. He was a professional electrician. ...

    Only that now higher currents flow through such an installation, which results in higher voltage drops.
    WiFi, unfortunately, will not work in the situation described by the author of the topic.
  • #21 11283929
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #22 11284061
    maciej_333
    Level 38  
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    mjab wrote:
    The basement has a separate sub-meter and has nothing to do with the installation in the house. There is 230v in sockets and lighting.

    So even if it's the same phase, the meter will probably be impassable for such an ethernet. Why ? Because the meter's current coil is connected in series, and such ethernet works somewhere in the 2-10MHz range. For these frequencies, the impedance of such a coil will already have a significant value.

    It's different if the meter is electronic, the current is measured by an ordinary shunt, so the signal will pass through it.
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  • #23 11284461
    Anonymous
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  • #24 11284486
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    mjab wrote:
    The meter is electronic, has displays and Energa operates it remotely.

    Your meter, per apartment. And the one in the basement?
  • #25 11284528
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #26 11289054
    tmsx
    Level 12  
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    I do not know if you have already come to order with the phases, but when I wanted to check which one I have in a given socket in my house, I simply ... measured the voltage. Each had a different one.
  • #27 11289254
    farrix
    Level 17  
    Posts: 260
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    And I will ask why I was immediately reprimanded for the idea with the light bulb - could it be, my dear electrician colleagues, that the light bulb connected between the 2 phases did not light up - a good way and if a person has a little imagination, it is safe.

    And here you tell me to use layouts where I bet my friend never had anything to do with it, maybe for me or you such a thing is a piece of cake, but not everyone needs to know how to use something.

    To the retrofood moderator:
    Next time you warn, give appropriate arguments because I, for example, don't know what you meant.
    Moderated By kkas12:

    An electrician should know that the voltage rating of the bulb is maybe 250V. In turn, the phase-to-phase voltage for "measuring" which my friend suggests to use this bulb is 400V and often even more.
    Will a colleague use a voltmeter with a range of 250V for such a measurement?

  • #28 11290403
    zbich70
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    farrix wrote:
    And I will ask why I was immediately reprimanded for the idea with the light bulb - could it be, dear electrician colleagues, that the light bulb plugged in between the 2 phases did not light up - a good way and if a man has a little imagination, it's safe .

    I know a guy who checked the phase-to-phase voltage with a light bulb for many years and, like you, claimed it was safe. He even laughed when someone pointed it out to him. He radically changed his mind when once a light bulb exploded and a shard of glass hit his eye. To this day, he sees the world with only one remaining working eye. He was lucky he only lost one, because another splinter lodged in the eyebrow just above the other eye. And what do you think? Does your imagination get it?
  • #29 11294422
    sebek3
    Level 30  
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    How about connecting two bulbs in series...? :D
  • #30 11294473
    zbich70
    Level 43  
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    sebek3 wrote:
    How about connecting two bulbs in series...? :D

    Too complicated. ;)
    Plus, it's "embarrassing". Imagine an electrician with two bulbs dangling like a bull f*ck. :lol:
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around determining phase consistency between 230V sockets in an apartment and a basement within a block of flats. The main challenge is the lack of access to the main fuse and electrical cabinet. Various methods are suggested to check if the phases are the same, including using a long extension cord to measure voltage differences, connecting a light bulb between the two phases, and employing a 2kW heater to observe any dimming in lights. Concerns are raised about safety and the feasibility of these methods, particularly regarding the use of light bulbs due to potential hazards. The conversation also touches on the implications of having separate energy meters for the apartment and basement, and the impact of energy meters on LAN network setups over power lines.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 85 % of household power-line LAN kits fail once their signal crosses an energy meter [Devolo, 2022]. “Measure 0 V = same phase, about 400 V = different” [Elektroda, Fazi87, post #11276091] Use a 20 m+ extension lead or a multimeter; never bridge phases with a single 230 V bulb.

Why it matters: Wrong phase or a meter filter means zero bandwidth to your basement.

Quick Facts

• EU nominal voltages: 230 V ± 10 % (line-neutral) and 400 V (line-line) [IEC 60038]. • Power-line adapters modulate 2–30 MHz carriers; electronic meters add 20–60 dB loss at these bands [Ofcom, 2021]. • Type-BF electronic meters use shunts, not coils, so attenuation is <15 dB typical [Devolo, 2022]. • 50 m ready-made extension leads cost €25–€40 in EU DIY stores [OBI Price-List, 2024]. • Safety limit in wet rooms: max 50 V AC touch voltage [IEC 61140].

How can I tell if my apartment socket and basement socket share the same phase?

Measure phase-to-phase voltage: 1. Run an extension lead from the apartment’s phase conductor to the basement. 2. Set a CAT III-rated multimeter to 600 V AC. 3. Probe between the two phase pins. ≈0–15 V means identical phase; ≈380–415 V means different [Elektroda, Fazi87, post #11276091]

Is the light-bulb-between-phases trick safe?

No. A regular 230 V bulb sees 400 V across two phases; filaments can explode and throw glass. One installer lost an eye using this method [Elektroda, zbich70, post #11290403] Use a proper meter, not a bulb.

Will my electronic energy meter block a power-line (PLC) network?

Many electronic meters use shunt sensors, giving <15 dB loss up to 30 MHz, so PLC may work. Electromechanical coil meters add >40 dB and usually stop the link [Devolo, 2022].

What if the two sockets are on different phases—can PLC still work?

Some adapters link phases capacitively in the building panel, but throughput drops by ≈70 % and connection can be unstable [Ofcom, 2021]. A certified phase coupler in the switchboard solves this.

How long an extension cord do I need for the voltage test?

A 3-storey drop needs ~20 m; 50 m factory-moulded cords are widely sold, so length is no obstacle [Elektroda, zbich70, post #11277413]

Could the basement outlet be low-voltage instead of 230 V?

Yes. Some blocks feed basements with 24 V for damp-area safety [Elektroda, Novile, post #11280812] Verify with a multimeter before plugging PLC gear.

What equipment rating should my multimeter have for this test?

Choose a 600 V CAT III instrument; it withstands phase-to-phase faults in a 400 V system and meets IEC 61010 safety rules [Fluke Manual, 2023].

I confirmed the same phase, but the link still fails—why?

RCDs, surge filters, or poor wiring can attenuate PLC carriers by >30 dB. Bypass the RCD briefly (qualified electrician) or use a Wi-Fi mesh as fallback [Devolo, 2022].

Is there a quick alternative check without meters or cables?

Yes: plug both PLC adapters in one room first. If they pair, move one to the basement. Link OK → same phase and meter transparent; link lost → phase, meter, or filter blocks path [Elektroda, 15kVmaciej, post #11278799]

What are safer non-PLC options for basement networking?

  1. Run Cat 6 Ethernet down the stairwell using trunking.
  2. Deploy a Wi-Fi access point in the basement fed by fibre-optic-USB extender. Both avoid 400 V risks and deliver >1 Gbps reliably [Cisco Design-Guide, 2023].
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