Passat B6 '05 - Parking brake, errors suggest a problem with the power suppl

02433 - Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283)012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON

Hello everyone! The problem arose suddenly - from the testimony of the owner. The power supply when reading parameters from address 53 shows that the power supply is above 12V. I tried resetting a bit following the instructions from the net (but without disconnecting the battery) but nothing. After turning off the ignition and trying with OUTPUT TEST, the light suddenly dims, shows the current consumption for a moment, but suddenly disconnects. Again, I have to turn the ignition off for about 10sec to get this short term overload.

I read something about updating the software from English sites, but I haven't really figured out what's going on.
Best regards and I hope you can help

See the wires at the terminals.

I checked everything, I connected it briefly on thick cables, there are only knocks with zero movement, so I suspect that something mechanical took them. Anyone know anything about this topic?

Probably mechanically locked.
Is the motor housing cracked?

Check if he has new blocks, maybe he changed them at the blacksmith

Since I've been fighting with these clamps, I've set myself an avatar like this (principle of operation of the el. clamp).
There, without power consumption, you won't be able to measure anything. Unplug the plug from the terminal, plug in the 21W bulb and it will light up only once and the controller will cut off the power supply, because the power consumption is too low ... This is what happens when the terminal is cut. I apply voltage directly to the clamp (with two wires) and by changing the polarity, I "drive" a few times back and forth with the piston in the clamp (if possible), if the clamp works, then you fasten the plug back, do tests/settings with VCDS and it's supposed to be. If the "short" clamp does not work, well - bad luck and ... the clamp must be replaced. It must be very, very clean there, on these contacts the terminal socket / wiring plug, otherwise the computer does not see the correct current consumption parameters and cuts off the circuit completely ...

Pati wrote:

I connected it briefly on thick cables, there are only knocks, no movement

You're right - rusty. Replace and smash the old ones with a hammer - you'll be surprised what crap is inside. (Replace the electronics itself - two screws only)

So I should immediately look for other clamps for the client? Can it be dismantled and repaired? I'm surprised that if they got off, it's two at once, unless one got off earlier but the customer didn't notice it????

He would have noticed, because the failure of one disables the system. The auxiliary brake indicator light also flashes or is displayed in yellow.

Well, that's how it is now, I'm only surprised that both stand frozen when I connect them for a short time, and I hit the battery with thick cables until lightning strikes. Weird that they both locked up at the same time. Maybe he's been doing it for a while, but I'll have to ask him.

Someone regenerated it?

Pati wrote:

Someone regenerated it?

Probably yes, but in a specialized workshop. I disassembled it several times and I will tell you that not only is rust a problem, but also this (photo) gear is broken and you can't fix it, and you won't even get parts. Later in turn (after folding) it will most likely be too hard to walk and what follows? Well, the controller will read too much current consumption and ... cut off the circuit ...
Photo of the gear itself (the teeth are falling apart, plus the toothed belt):


For me, it's buying a new caliper = the best solution.

That's exactly how it was, except that here it would be 100% fine and the transmission as well. It's rusted off. I threw it in the brake fluid, started it manually, then under the pressure from the compressor I accelerated this contraption and blew the fluid a few times, lubricated it, put everything on silicone and it works, let's see how long . But this translation is a massacre, some low idea, but did you have to make it up so much???

Pati wrote:

we'll see how long.

If the customer does not give up 1000 km from home abroad, he will be satisfied

According to me, it should last for two years because it looked quite nice after raincarnation , in my opinion, it was little used, maybe I'll offer him an autohold as something to start the mechanism

You risked a lot, I would exchange, you will not be satisfied as for complaints you will have to clog up several hundred km.

I can see that if you say so, it may not be colorful, so I'll warn him, but as far as I'm concerned, it looks really good. We'll see, I'm not closing the topic for now, I'll get back to you at most. Regards!

The guy has this car for 3 years and he tells me that he has never used a manual car. Will try to do it now.

I write even though wontek is probably out of date, but for those browsing the internet in search of help, it will definitely come in handy, basically it started with a routine replacement of the clamp on the right side, I ordered a new one from skv without electronics, the cables were a little cloudy but not rotten, I put the motor in and forgot to put on the test activation and error 02433 and it will not translate on the other hand, it is definitely functional and does not delete anything after connecting to the other side it works so after longer fights I found that the module must have failed I left it until the morning the next day with the clamp dropped and the test and immediately after the ignition it suddenly started after the activation and the errors cleared, which was impossible before, the application when replacing the clamp and works where it is required to disconnect the plug is the safest way to cut off the electricity, put it back together, start and everything will be ok.