VW Passat B6 3C - Parking Brake Failure After Discs and Pads Replacement, VCDS Adaptation Issues

Hello. Dear colleagues, I have a problem with the parking brake in my b6. Namely, I had the front and rear discs and pads to be replaced. The front went quickly, while the back started having problems. I used VCDS to recreate the terminals. Everything is fine. Clamp off, but I was tempted to check how it closes. So VCDS'EM did a clamp closure when the clamp was not in place. From now on, I have a problem. Fault only when attempting to open, close, or test the terminals in parking brake data blocks 006, 007 and 010. I have folded the brakes somehow, but the error of lack of power on the right rear caliper crashes. After all, it is not possible that something happened to the beam within 15 minutes. That's why I think to do adaptations / coding of the parking brake controller. Could any of my colleagues help me with this? Thanks in advance, best regards

Try a few times with the button. Some people reportedly cut off the beam during such replacement.

I tried. I've read that others have disconnected the battery, but that also doesn't work. I read that the driver, when noticing a different resistance, disconnects the current at this terminal. The only question is how to reset it now?

Just hold down the brake pedal firmly and try to activate / deactivate the parking brake a few times. Unless it doesn't respond at all, then there may be something in the bundle.

So colleagues, yes. The cubes and plugs look like new. I keep the brake pressed, I apply the parking brake and it drags, but only the left wheel. Additionally, when the P button is pressed, a chime sounds and the computer displays the error of lack of power supply to the right terminal. The error clears, tries to tighten the handwheel and again tightens the left wheel chime and the same error. Before replacing the pads and discs, everything was ok. I don't believe that something happened to the harness, because after opening the clamps VCDS and my stupid attempt to close the clamps, where the right one was not installed, an error appeared, and so everything was going crazy. I am wondering whether I should disassemble the central tunnel tomorrow to get to the brake controller and not unplug it for a test and plug it back in. Maybe then he can do a parking brake test on the VCDS. I only wonder if the coding will not be recommended to me then.

No voodoo VCDS will help here. Something's just broken.

Maybe you are right, buddy, but how is it possible that 15 minutes before replacing the blocks everything was chuling? I will add that the right motor works for a short time without any charges, because this is how I retracted it after I closed it with Vcds

Give a detailed description of the error. From what you write, it is rather a problem in the driver because if he did not see the clamp, it would show something else.

Unfasten the left one and see if the right one moves.

I'll try to unfasten. I also thought that maybe I should try to swap the motors in places and see if the error will spread to the other side.
Added after 32 [minutes]:
Here is the only error that shows up.

Unplug the controller, put the power supply on its plug so that the right clamp is actuated, then it will be sure that the beam is operational. Check if the controller is sometimes not green.
It looks to me as if the wrong voltage was supplied from the driver, i.e. the driver is damaged or its power supply.

Driver like new. There is no greenery. I do not know which pins to give the power to so that it is ok.
I am uploading pics of the driver

Cross the wires with thick pins with the meter, you will find continuity to the back.

Pins 12 and 27 are right engine, 14 and 29 are left, 13 and 15 are fixed pluses, 28 and 30 ground.

I ordered to check the beam and did as follows. I disconnected the plug from the motor as in the photo and gave the battery voltage straight to the ankle. Then the meter in hand, I flew to the car and the voltage on the red pins is normal. So we can exclude the beam, right?

Well, even in the photo you can see the numbers, you marked 12 and 27. Unless you mean how I know what to be on, I looked at the diagram.
Check if you have both pluses, because it may turn out to be just a fuse, there are 2 separate ones.

Yes about how did you know. It's all clear. Check these 2 permanent pluses, are they?

Added after 5 [minutes]:

Unfortunately, it would be too good. The meter for pins 13 and 28. Result 12.26. The meter for pins 15 and 30 also 12,26

Error that you are checking the voltage with the meter. Take a light bulb of at least 55W.

Checked now with a h7 55W bulb. It shines like a lighthouse. I do not know if it is worth going for a used driver and checking it

Added after 3 [hours] 34 [minutes]:

So yeah. I just returned to the house with the second driver with the same numbers. I connected and the Christmas tree on the board. Could any of my colleagues tell me how to code it all?

Added after 7 [hours] 12 [minutes]:

Nobody will help? The plus is that the parking brake works on both wheels. The downside was that I didn't write down the ABS coding

After 2 days of fighting and searching practically 3/4 of the American forums, everything was managed. I would also like to thank my colleague Ociz for his help. greetings

hey Krys323 - would you put the coding for ABS and the driver on the forum? I have a similar problem:

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3390687.html

It may be useful, who knows ... at the moment I'm at the stage - "why did I lose access to basic settings after removing the motor ??" is this driver so sensitive that after such an attempt it is released immediately ??

But there is a different coding for each driver and car, so it won't do you too much.

I used this material a lot and I was even about to take care of the driver because I was convinced that it was damaged because the continuity of the motor circuit from the driver was OK, but it did not bother me that from time to time he turned the engine from the left brake.
Left rear parking brake did not work and triggered error 02432, left brake voltage. Unable to delete. After inserting the key, he only operated once and he did not want to turn it anymore. During control on the table from the power supply, the current is about 1.5A. It turned out that the clutch was lubricated with copper grease, which was a mistake. Lubrication did not do anything with a different lubricant. Only after cleaning the grease and lubricating only the side guides of the clutch with ordinary grease, the current dropped to about 0.8A. After putting it on, it started to kick and the error could be deleted. So do everything you can to make the current idle about 0.8A and the problems will disappear.
I hope it will be useful to someone.
greetings

For me, I was able to fix the error for some time by bleeding the brake system, but it turned out that the error returned.

I go to basic settings and again I can not do any test or pull the pistons for replacement.



The cable spits it out:

Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 5N0-907-801.clb
Part No SW: 3C8 907 801 A HW: 3C8 907 801 A
Component: J540 EPB3 VW-10 498 0003
Revision: 009 Serial number: 00000000155188
Coding: 0000057
Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
VCID: 285F92C69B323102C8-807C

1 Fault Found:
02442 - Function Lamp in Control Head
009 - Open or Short to Ground - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11111001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 19
Reset counter: 83
Mileage: 202,825 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.07.19
Time: 10:17:01

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.40 V
Count: 81
Speed: 0.0 km / h
Hex Value: 0x12E0
Hex Value: 0x0001
Hex Value: 0x0202

The error only indicates the lamp next to the button, which actually does not light, but also does not work for auto hold. However, this is not the biggest problem - it turns out that the rear brake pads are not pulled back sufficiently while driving and sometimes they scrub the disc, which causes the disc and alloy wheels to heat up. Once the rim got so hot that I thought the tire was on fire because I could smell the burning rubber. It is strange that it does not happen every time, but mostly on longer journeys.

My first suspicion falls on the entire handbrake motor, but maybe there are some other ideas from forum users ... when I tested the toe-in of the wheels, the diagnostician told me that the pad could have swollen and it needs a little polishing.

When it comes to replacing or removing the blocks, you do not have to do it with a computer, just unscrew the entire parking brake (2 screws) and under this there is a screw for a large TORX and you will loosen the blocks for replacement, I did it myself when my hand wheel blocked me once.
greetings

hm, interesting ... so you don't have to pull back the pistons to get the blocks out? I have to see there, maybe actually. Are you sure it was in the b6 streak with automatic manual? Recently, when I had a problem with pulling the pistons by the computer, I was delaying the pistons by connecting the cables to the battery and applying voltage to the motor ankle.

In addition, I found a video on YT that can be very helpful, for me there may be a similar problem, maybe not the same, but it may be related to the engine:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFJO3QZZi9k

The current price of replacements is not knocking off my feet, so maybe I will just consider replacing:

https://allegro.pl/silnik-silniczek-hamulca-recznego-vw-passat-b6-b7-i7193579139.html

damaged brake controller?