Hello, I created a topic to check what users think about soldering the ends of wires (lines), e.g. extension cords, plugs, etc. I mean, for example, whether a crimped sleeve is better than a soldered tip, or whether there is any difference at all.
Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamoperatoronwy wrote:The sleeves are made of aluminum and the wire of the cable is made of copper, a perfect combination of materials, really
Stałybywalec102 wrote:A tinned cable is easy to break at the tin-copper-insulation interface, but it is rather difficult to move it sideways with an insulated sleeve.Hello, I created a topic to check what users think about soldering the ends of wires (lines), e.g. extension cords, plugs, etc.
tomo1885 wrote:Stałybywalec102 wrote:A tinned cable is easy to break at the tin-copper-insulation interface, but it is rather difficult to move it sideways with an insulated sleeve.Hello, I created a topic to check what users think about soldering the ends of wires (lines), e.g. extension cords, plugs, etc.
lordpakernik wrote:Take the same 1.5mm2 wire, solder one end, and clamp an insulated ferrule on the other. Connect both to some contactor. Then wave both of them in parallel and see which one falls off first... The same with a cable soldered to some field. A few moves around and it falls off... Read what a notch is in the strength of materials and what its importance is. In small closed plugs, the solder is reliable and sufficient, but mechanically the use of something that grips the insulation (connectors and insulated sleeves) and does not allow bending at the border of the transition from the cable to the Cu-Sn `rod` or crimping is mechanically more durable. Similarly, non-insulated sleeves, a few bends and the wires gradually break off...I`ve never had a problem with tips that were whitened. When it comes to permanently connecting wires, only soldering, not crimped connectors.
lordpakernik wrote:This type of connection is the cheapest and most primitive, if you don`t whiten it, the screw will cut half of the cable... However, a sleeve is better (insulated)...When the screw presses on the whitened tip, it dents into it and there is good contact.
zdzisiek1979 wrote:What isn`t copper?
There are endings:
Copper, tinned copper, copper-aluminum for the transition from an aluminum conductor to a copper bus, there are also copper-aluminum and aluminum ferrules.
lordpakernik wrote:If you tighten it well, half of the wires will fall out after unscrewing. Can I give you a photo?It won`t cut anything, it will just crush it.
lordpakernik wrote:Maybe not a contactor, but a 3F 32A plug, with a piece of falling rubber instead of a choke and a clamp that is too big to squeeze a 2.5mm2 cable to a 2.2kW motor, as people in villages wave on a daily basis...No one will swing the contactor.
masonry wrote:
Since the current only flows on the surface, there is no need to use material for full wires.
Insulate the pipes from the inside and outside and we will run both electricity and water (or whatever you want) through one such "cable".
from about 2 minutes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRH62ynOX50 and it works
TL;DR: NASA found crimped terminations survive 10× more vibration cycles than soldered joints [NASA, 2020]; “Tin is brittle and cracks” — excray [Elektroda, excray, post #11725576] Ferrules cut assembly time by about 60 % [Erko, 2022]. Why it matters: faster, stronger terminations reduce field failures and rework.
• DIN 46228 colours: 0.5 mm² white, 1.5 mm² black, 2.5 mm² blue, 6 mm² yellow-green [DIN 46228]. • Typical ferrule pull-out force: ≥50 N for 1.5 mm² conductor [IEC 60352-2]. • Sleeve + tool kit cost: ≈€40 for 1 000 pieces and ratchet crimper [RS Catalog, 2023]. • Recommended strip length: 8–12 mm for 1–6 mm² ferrules [Erko, 2022]. • Service recall: 100 % of tinned screw-clamp devices in one fleet loosened within months [Elektroda, pawlik118, post #17428443]
