FAQ
TL;DR: Do not use a ferrule on stranded wire in a solid-only push‑in. WAGO 2273 is 0.5–2.5 mm² solid and "for solid conductors"; use lever or lighting connectors rated for stranded/ferruled instead. This FAQ helps DIYers and electricians wiring tight LED ceilings. [“WAGO 2273 Series”]
Why it matters: Using the right connector type prevents loose joints, overheating, and inspection failures in ceiling luminaires.
Quick Facts
- Solid-only push-in splices (e.g., WAGO 2273) are specified for 0.5–2.5 mm² solid conductors—stay within the stated conductor type for reliability. [“WAGO 2273 Series”]
- Lever connectors (e.g., WAGO 221) accept solid, stranded, and fine-stranded; ferrules are permitted, and the body is up to 40% smaller than 222. [“WAGO 221 Series”]
- Do not tin stranded wire under spring clamps; solder cold-flow can loosen the joint and cause overheating. [“WAGO: Do Not Tin Conductors”]
- Lighting connectors (e.g., WAGO 224) are purpose-built for luminaires in tight spaces and handle typical 0.5–2.5 mm² terminations. [“WAGO 224 Lighting Connectors”]
Can I use a crimped ferrule on stranded wire in a connector marked "wire only"?
No. Solid-only push-in splices like WAGO 2273 specify solid conductors only (0.5–2.5 mm²). Using a ferrule to mimic solid is outside that specification. Select a connector rated for stranded or ferruled leads, such as a lever or lighting connector. [“WAGO 2273 Series”]
What should I use when a WAGO 221-412 is too thick behind an LED panel?
Use a lighting connector designed for shallow spaces. WAGO 224 lighting connectors are made for luminaires and accept both supply and fixture leads within typical size ranges. They solve clearance issues without compromising conductor compatibility. [“WAGO 224 Lighting Connectors”]
Are ferrules allowed with lever connectors like WAGO 221?
Yes. The 221 series supports solid, stranded, and fine-stranded conductors, and accepts ferruled fine-stranded leads. Its lever action ensures proper clamping on different conductor types while keeping installation compact. [“WAGO 221 Series”]
Is it safe to tin stranded wires for spring connectors or twist-on caps?
No. Tinned conductors cold-flow under pressure, which can loosen the joint and cause overheating or arcing. As WAGO states, "Do not tin conductors." Use proper ferrules with an approved connector instead. [“WAGO: Do Not Tin Conductors”]
What tool should I use to crimp ferrules for a reliable joint?
Use a professional ratcheting crimper that produces a uniform crimp profile and full 360° compression. "You need a professional crimper and nothing will come out." After crimping, perform a firm pull test before energizing. [Elektroda, Ryszard49, post #18403915]
What sizes and current do solid-only push-in splices typically support?
Typical installation splices like WAGO 2273 cover 0.5–2.5 mm² solid conductors and are commonly rated around 24 A. Always check the exact marking on your part for the applicable rating and approvals. [“WAGO 2273 Series”]
What can go wrong with a poorly crimped sleeve (ferrule)?
A poor crimp can slip, loosen, or heat under load. That leads to intermittent faults or insulation damage. As one expert warned, "If you have a badly tightened bushing the cable may come out." Inspect crimps and perform a pull test. [Elektroda, arlix, post #18403713]
Should I check the LED panel’s internal connectors before choosing a splice?
Yes. Confirm the driver or PCB terminals accept your conductor type and size. This ensures compatibility from the luminaire tail to the supply and avoids mixed-spec terminations. [Elektroda, bartekfigura, post #18403140]
Are DIN‑rail terminal blocks the same as quick installation connectors?
No. DIN-rail terminal blocks (ZUG/TOPJOB S) are different products with different rules than quick splicing connectors for sockets and lighting. "These are ZUG fittings and not installation fittings." [Elektroda, Magic_moon, post #18404013]
What if I have almost no depth—can I recess the plaster to fit a connector?
Use low-profile lighting connectors or shallow boxes first. If nothing fits, carefully enlarging the recess may be a last resort where permitted. One installer noted scraping a hole in the plaster as a solution. [Elektroda, siewcu, post #18408004]
How do I correctly join solid supply and stranded luminaire leads?
Use a connector rated for both. Lever connectors like WAGO 221 accept solid and fine-stranded; crimp ferrules on fine-stranded for a neat, secure termination. Verify size ranges before installation. [“WAGO 221 Series”]
Why do some pros advise against sleeves in wire-only connectors?
Because the connector was engineered for bare solid conductors, not ferruled ends. Clamping geometry differs, so reliability suffers. As one pro put it, "using a sleeve in wire connectors is a very poor idea." [Elektroda, Shadowix, post #18404233]
Quick how-to: crimp and connect a ferruled lead into a 221 safely
- Strip to the gauge marked on the connector; avoid nicking strands.
- Crimp a ferrule with a ratcheting tool; verify a full, even compression.
- Open the lever, insert to the stop, close fully, then pull-test the conductor. [“WAGO 221 Series”]
Do I ever need to rework manufacturer-tinned luminaire leads?
If a luminaire arrives with tinned tails, re-terminate them using ferrules before using spring clamps. This avoids creep and maintains contact pressure over time. [“WAGO: Do Not Tin Conductors”]
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