Vaillant ecoTEC PLUS VC 186 3-5 Stove: Underfloor Heating Shuts Off Above 55 Degrees C?

Hello

Well, I have such a problem. The apartment is a semi-detached house in a row. Underfloor heating on the entire ground floor, the rest radiators. I have a single-function oven with a 120L tray installed. Vaillant ecoTEC PLUS VC 186 3-5 The room has not yet been picked up and there was already a problem with the floor twice, i.e. it did not heat up and there was air in it. The reason for this was that someone set the temperature too high on the stove. That's what the plumber (who installed everything) and the site manager stated. They told me that when it is set above 55 degrees on the stove, the floor will automatically turn off. In the hall there is a box with a water mixer, etc. there is a whole tank with a circulation pump and an expansion vessel. Tell me how it is, because on the stove you can turn the temperature up to 75 degrees C and here they say that I can only turn to 55. Is there something wrong with this system? In my opinion, it should not be like this because there is this whole water mixing system for the floor. After all, when the frosts are -20-25, I have to set the temperature on the stove above, say, 55 to keep the apartment warm. Advice something because I'm going to make a scandal about it, but I don't know with what and on what basis to hit these people. greetings

There cannot be a situation that above the set temperature of 55 degrees C, the boiler does not heat up the floor heating. Because your words about frost and then higher temperature are correct, what about radiators if you have temperature limitations? .... I do not know what the installation looks like in your case. Namely, the divider of the floor heating .. And does this floor heating system heat up or it happens from time to time?

It happened that it worked twice and turned off by itself and the plumber vented. When I go and look, I do not set it higher than 54 for fear that it will air again and it will not heat up. The effect was that when the floor did not work, there was a refrigerator on the ground floor, walking in the jackets and on the top where the heaters could be with short sleeves. And is it not so that the return water from the radiators should be supplied to Podlowgowka? Maybe the water from the stove goes to the mixer and is too hot (over 55) and therefore turns off?

It works on the divider. At least it should. I don't know about you. And the plumber should use a capillary head or a 3-way valve there. And the floor heating is not supplied with water from the return .. You would have to see what your manifold looks like. Wgl the entire installation. Because it's hard to tell without seeing the installation.

I do not know the installation at all ... but in general, it should not be such a situation and should everything work in the entire temperature range? I want to know if I can just make strict conditions, etc ..

olimpek18 wrote:

Buddy olimpek18. From the post I conclude that you are not very familiar with CO installation. Not everyone has to know each other, the only thing is to find a specialist who would help you understand the topic. Preferably before the fact, not after the fact.

Apparently you were either unlucky or not have enough funds for the CO installation and you got as much (such an installation) as you paid. Including after-sales service and training. You have to distinguish that some owners of houses spend approx. 60 thousand. PLN, others 20 thousand. PLN for a central heating installation and have the same or similar elements. I will not go into those who are happier about it or who are better off with this installation. If you realize the difference, it will be easier for you to understand and accept errors in your installation. Because practically every installation has some drawbacks, although these are not necessarily errors. The shortcomings can be small or large. A small drawback is e.g. a leaking valve and a large drawback is e.g. a non-heating floor heating ...

Coming back to the topic - you gave very little detail and you expect specific help. You can say more about whether:

1. Do you have a clutch ??
2. Do you have two circuits in the installation?
3. Do you have an additional pump on the installation?
4. What is your floor control (what elements are in the switch cabinet)?
5. And the temperature of the floor heating or the room in which it is located, how do you control it?
6. What is the behavior of the floor heating in relation to the temperature set on the boiler - when does the floor heat up and when not?
7. The water from the boiler first goes to the floor manifold or to the radiators (simply put - closer to the boiler power supply you have a floor manifold or radiator manifold - if you have one) ??

Write something more ... And with this "strict conditions", think about who - plumber or designer? Because there may be several to blame ... maybe even a developer or the investor himself (i.e. you) ...
For now, it looks like a low-budget installation - one central heating circuit (radiator with a floor plate connected to it on the manifold with a mixer and RTLs on the loops. No clutch or additional circulation pumps). And if you have this + incorrect installation / adjustment, then in some settings this is what happens - above a certain temperature on the boiler, the RTL valve (main or on the loops) closes and you have no flow on the floor (it does not heat up). Or there may be a wrong mixer or the RTL mentioned - with bad temperature parameters. Or the capillary sensor has been set low and cuts off the valve too quickly ... or ... or ... there may be several reasons - from the information you provided, finding the reasons are like blanks ...

Olimpek18, do not receive the installation and commissioning protocol.
The manufacturer's service technician must pick up the installation.
The installation has to work fine and you don't care about the rest.
Even if you set 85 degrees on the boiler, it should be a warm floor and hot radiators.
The installation can be done in this way if the designer designed it and the plumber knows how to read the diagram.
Consequently, you can ask for their opinion in writing and then throw out the ignorant.

I can easily understand the issues you are alleging. Unfortunately, I had no influence on how the heating system would look like. What in the house would look like. It was imposed by the developer .. Generally there was a focus on radiators but the developer introduced a novelty that you can make a flooring. I did that too and I took a floor covering on the entire ground floor, plus the replacement of the boiler from a combi-boiler to a single-function condensate with a tray. I will try to find out more about the installation. Only that I will not get any plans for its implementation, etc. As you write about some clutches, etc. I will say this, what I saw in my house is only a hanging boiler, a box with a mixer in the vestibule, there is also a reservoir and an expansion vessel, a circulation pump on the tank . I didn't see anything else installed. It is probably like you write with one circuit of the floor with radiators. I will try to talk to the plumber and give my opinion why it is so and not otherwise.

olimpek18 wrote:

I tried to highlight the situation you are in because I know developers and I know what they are capable of. I also know what people who bought real estate from them feel. Sometimes it is despair and powerlessness. An unenviable situation - the loan is taken, the CO installation is not working, there is no money for replacement / renovation. It is difficult for the owner to understand that it is necessary to replace a new element with a new one. Anyone would have trouble with that. The more so because sometimes renovation means hammering new tiles (installed six months ago) and tearing pipes out of the walls. And because the installation is the only fault ??

Recently, I had a case that in all segments near Krakow, the developer installed rails in the walls, but of such quality that the walls are weeping with rust. Can you imagine what condition these rails were in? They stayed in the furrow by the force of habit - you used your finger to crush the rail such rust. It is not the first time that I encounter the motif of crying rails in the walls.

As for your installation - as long as you only have the splitter on top - no other components, it will be exactly the installation I described to you in the previous post. Probably one boiler pump handles it all. Because connecting an additional pump requires an extension to the boiler. And that means $$$. Since you can regulate the temperature on the boiler, you also have no regulator - it also indicates that someone is saving on everything they can.

Check the mixer - settings, type, capillary (safety) switch - if it is at all, RTL - what parameters are they (of course, the temperature range).
For now, the diagnosis is that one of the floor heating elements closes the flow as the boiler temperature increases. And this is basically a correct symptom of floor heating. Without going into details.
Maybe it is a matter of flows and it is enough to insert one valve so that it does not turn off the floor heating. Then I would need to define where the boiler is, the floor distributor and the further central heating installation.
Write down how many fins the heaters have and in what rooms are they hanging because they are probably undersized and a higher boiler parameter will be needed. External insulation the walls, also write how many cm is.