Rotameters Not Responding: Underfloor Heating System (Vaillant EcoTEC Boiler) Flow Regulation Issue

Hello everyone.
Without too much extension, in the new six-month underfloor heating system (Vaillant EcoTEC boiler) I cannot correctly set the flows in the switching station. Indicators in rotameters do not respond to twisting / unscrewing all the time indicating the maximum level. I do not have any pumps and the installation was vented before start-up. The contractor "has to see" so much that pandemics will make him reach me in a month or less.

And do they react to turning the boiler on or off? However change position?
Take a picture of the box.

Once again, take it easy
What does top level mean?
They show the maximum flow if they are at the very top and indicate "0".
Give a photo of the manifold with the rotameter glass clearly visible.

Well, I did not take photos in a hurry, I will complete the post at a later time. Generally describing the situation - the floats in the rotameters are all the time extended (probably at 3) and turning and unscrewing does not change their position. If, for example, I would like to set the flow to 2, I do not have this option.

zales.vip wrote:

And do they react to turning the boiler on or off? However change position?
Take a picture of the box.

I have not checked this either, I will answer in a few hours.

If they indicate any flow and do not respond to turning them or turning on the boiler (pump) switch, it means that they are blocked by impurities from the installation and must be dismantled and cleaned. Of course, by the way, to check the condition of the filters.

Wojtermet25 wrote:

If they indicate any flow and do not respond to turning them or turning on the boiler (pump) switch, it means that they are blocked by impurities from the installation and must be dismantled and cleaned. Of course, by the way, to check the condition of the filters.

after less than 6 months? The installation was minimally used because the finishing works are still in progress.

It could even stop indicating on the day of commissioning if the installer was a "fahof" and did not flush the installation before commissioning and installing sensitive components such as pumps, mixing valves, rotameters, etc.

it could have been so, looking at the haste with which he fired the stove. I will do photo documentation today, maybe it will tell you something more.

thanks colleagues for help.

Do you have the floor heating only or the radiators too? As well - it warms up?
Perhaps check the filter on the return from the central heating installation - directly under the boiler.

only floor heating, one-story house 100m.

it is necessary to check the filter on the return from what

Colleagues, this is how the distribution looks like. Zero reaction to any movement. Zero reaction to turning the boiler off and on.

So they show no flow. Since they do not react to the pump operation, they are either completely air-tight - or the filter on the CO return is clogged. Have you checked this filter?
Give a picture of the whole box with the splitter and a better picture of the installation under the boiler.

zales.vip wrote:

Have you checked this filter?

unfortunately no, I don't know which one it is and I would not like to "improve" the installation even more. Tomorrow I will try to somehow work with closer frames and catch the entire switchboard. There is not much space there and I am not one of the smallest Generally, these rotameters work quite strangely by unscrewing, as if I close the flow, by turning it off, I open it. Completely different than, for example, in YouTube videos. Secondly (although I looked closely) I cannot say 100% that there is water in them. They are terribly illegible. On the ones previously mentioned from YouTube, you can see that something is floating inside and it is behaving strangely for me. I even tried to snap my finger and nothing, no movement of water.

In this photo, the only filter that can be seen is probably gas.
I wonder if the pump in this boiler turns on at all ...

So a filter for what you probably do not have. ie inside the boiler there is. But rather, the service technician should "fumble" with him.

It seems to me that the CO filter is on the left, unfortunately it is not visible in the photo. Today I will take more detailed photos of the entire room and all devices.



Is there any way to check if the pump is working as it should? It seems to me that this may be a good lead because, for example, in the 28-square-meter living room, when I checked the heating of the floor, it was half-heated, but the further away from the boiler room, the cooler it was.

@ kulfi82 Check the diagnostic code settings in the boiler. Enter what are the settings in D.000, D.014, D.017, D.018, D.019, D.071

This drinking water filter is probably behind the water meter and has nothing to do with CO. The one we are looking for should be on the pipes that are between the boiler and the divider (maybe behind the boiler?)
Check what your colleagues suggest, and additionally close most of the loops and leave only the two shortest and then see if there is any flow on the rotameters. Because if it turns out that the filter is clean, the pump is at its maximum, I suspect that the pipes supplying the distributor for the back of the circuits are too thin.

If the pipe from the boiler to the manifold is 22mm, the cross-section is 314mmkw, while the pipes from the floor heating are 1357mmkw in total, the difference is more than 4 times and this may be a problem. There should be a scramble team there. As for the filter, I did not find any, not even a gas one.

GBW wrote:

There should be a scramble team there.

Sorry, that's bullshit. As already, it is a clutch and an additional pump. There is no reason why a condensing boiler works best at low temperatures.

Did anyone write about increasing the temperature on the boiler?

So what is this mixing band supposed to do?

Today, after 4 p.m. I will be in the boiler, I will photograph everything carefully and I will measure the diameter of the pipes. To supplement it, a Vailliant VC ecoTEC 146 / 5-3 boiler is installed. The offer includes a Wilo circulation pump, but it will soon turn out that it is not available at all: /

Okay, we are waiting for the report.
The pump is the one that "lies" on the boiler.

@ kulfi82
No mixer is needed for the VC 146 with 100% floor heating.
It has 12 heating circuits. Assuming a flow of 1.5 l / min it comes out 12x1.5 = 18 l / min x 60min = 1080 l / h
Assuming a flow of 2.0 l / min it comes out 12x1.5 = 24 l / min x 60min = 1440 l / h



Therefore, it is to provide what values it has in the codes that I gave earlier. Perhaps you just need to change a few values and there will be a flow.
The CU22mm pipe is too small at dt7'C, personally, I would give at least 28mm max 35mm and a magnetic filter on the return from the installation is obligatory.

Ok, I'm after the pictures and I can show you something more. A lot of them came out, so I put them in google photos.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/m1GyQLDMxs8QgDcL8

I also left the two shortest loops, the rest twisted. No reaction.

Thanks. Colleagues asked for the diameter of the pipes for the manifold.
The filter I see is in the cabinet, turn off the valves and check if it is clean (of course, turn off the boiler first).
The bowel is total, as even for two loops it cannot cope.
We will still wait for the interpretation of the settings, because I do not know this boiler.

Added after 1 [hours] 33 [minutes]:

I looked at the manual
D14 is the pump speed you have on the car, for the test I would give it 5 max
D18 pump operation mode (this intrigues me the most) you have 3 Eco (5 min every 25 min) it should probably be 1 Comfort (continuous operation)
D71 too much for a floorstand, 45-50 *

I also have this question: was it ever good? Have flows ever been higher?

Gentlemen, shame and disgrace. I apologize in advance for wasted time. It turned out ... that there were no flows because the boiler was not working or it was working minimally. At home, I am set to 19 degrees and in recent days in Szczecin the temperatures have fluctuated around 20-21. So the weather station was shutting down the boiler and it either did nothing or turned on for a minute two to cut it or something. Since this is the first time I have come into contact with a gas boiler, I did not know exactly how they work. I got a headache that the negative pressure that controls these mushrooms is in them all the time, regardless of whether the boiler is working or not.

Reflecting on this installation, the light bulb came on and I set the set temperature to 24 degrees. Only then did the boiler start from the hoof and heat up the entire system and the rotameters began to react properly.

Sorry and thanks for all the advice and commitment.
Good health.