Connecting Miniature Circuit Breakers: Guidelines for Eski Box, Type B, CSL6-B...A Model

Hello.
I am going to replace my old fuse box (fuse box) with the so-called "eski". I live in a block of flats from the 70's. I have already bought a box, type B circuit breakers (2x10A, 2x16A and 2x20A) and a comb. From what I've been saying, there is a rule that the tension always comes from the bottom. But according to the diagram on the switches and its markings, it should go from the top (to terminals No. 1 - see photo
)

The switches have the designation CSL6-B ... A.

Do you think I can connect them from the bottom? or should they be connected at the top?
I am asking because I have not yet seen the comb distributing the power supply to the switches from the top.

It doesn't matter which side you plug in the power supply. Usually they are given at 1/3/5, but if connecting on this side is inconvenient, you can connect the other way. Combs on the other hand, depending on the manufacturer, usually fit on one side.

robertotg wrote:

Do you think I can connect them from the bottom? or should they be connected at the top?
I am asking because I have not yet seen the comb distributing the power supply to the switches from the top.

If you have not seen a comb for eyes, etc., and you have no idea about boards and switchboards, call an electrician, it will be safer.

And the security with a value of 20 A are what circuits do you expect? Better call an electrician because someone else will get hurt.

Aluminum installation? Remember that the comb is copper.

Moderated By Akrzy74:

Aluminum installation, copper comb- and I can give a warning for 3.1.11
Your post does not add anything important to the topic!

lukiiiii wrote:

Aluminum installation? Remember that the comb is copper.

It has nothing to do with it. Wires / wire is placed elsewhere.
PS. My friend robertotg how many half is this mailbox for "esy"?

And I propose to verify the condition of the old fuse holders and answer the question whether the replacement is really necessary. Taking into account the characteristics of the rise of the short-circuit current with fuse protection compared to overcurrent circuit breakers (if I am unclear - did anyone hear a shot at a short-circuit protected by a 10A fuse? )

What is your colleague's connecting power?
What pre-meter protection?

Answering the questions:

- connection power - 5.5 kW (25A pre-meter protection)
- the installation is alu, but I am replacing it with copper
- 20A switches for the electric oven and for the bathroom with sockets
- lighting for 10A - two circuits
- 16A for the other sockets
- for 20A circuits - 2.5mm2 Cu wires
- for lighting - 1.5mm2
- the fact that the comb is Cu, and the Al installation so far will not matter much because the wires will not be connected directly to each other - a link will not be created (by the way: my father-in-law is an electrician with over 30 years of experience, but I would like to design the installation myself. ..) - if I am not sure about something, I will definitely consult it, and here I ask specialists who may have even more experience.
Aaa, and one more thing - so far the installation is 2-wire (L + N), so in the box I want to bridge the PE and N rails for now. and the installation is complete because in the sockets I will connect the PE wires to the grounding, so there will be no need to bridge the sockets). I know for sure that it will be enough and it will work.

Well, my father-in-law is an electrician, and he does not know what current 230 V single-phase sockets are made of.
I also asked about the number of fields in the box I bought - did my friend miss?

Hyh, I haven't talked to my father-in-law yet ... so far I'm asking here on the forum - I want to flash
The box has 8 fields - I leave 2 places for the difference
1-phase sockets are 16A - I know that

Did you buy a hammer or was it already there?

elpapiotr wrote:

Did you buy a hammer or was it already there?

??

Well, for whipping. When something sticks out, it won't fit, and so on.

It won't be needed. When it comes to the size of the box, it is so roomy that everything will fit easily. I did not buy tiny crap.
If you meant something else - please describe in simpler terms

All fields will be taken.
Zero reserves.
One power cord (cross-section and number of cores not known yet).
Not less than 6 3-wire wires for the receiving circuits, which gives 18 wires for connection.
I can see it tightly, and everything is crammed into it.
Here you need a switchgear with a number of bays not less than 12-14.

I cannot understand that someone wants to "shine" in the field in which he has an illusory concept, and this field has a special impact on the health and life of loved ones. I understand when someone wants to "design" a simple circuit - you can help and advise, but is it always and in every case?
If you want to achieve the craftsmanship of engineers, knowledge and experience gained over the years - it is not enough to become a hero in your own home, and an electrician with 30 years of experience may turn out to be a great fitter, but a poor designer ...
Here on the forum we write the same advice many times - and what does it result from? - the respected author did not even deign to use the search engine to get acquainted with similar topics, and patience may one day run out ...

I understand your concerns. Before I connect anything to the power supply, it will be checked by a qualified electrician. There is no danger that I will perform the so-called a fluff. Asking for advice in a forum is only part of acquiring knowledge, so that a person does not always have to rely on others, but sometimes on himself. The guy in the house should be able to do some things himself. I don't know if it's wrong that I'm trying to do something myself. I conclude that it was probably a mistake to write on the forum since I am immediately inundated with opinions not to deal with it.
Referring to the amount of space in the box - elpapiotrze - the box is 30 cm wide and 22 cm high. Do you think it's not enough? If so, it's a waste of time to write.
I close the topic.

Yes, buddy, it is not enough, because the free space in the switchboard should be no less than 30%.

Fortunately, the times of the "handyman" (also for the hand itself) are ending.
Irrevocably.