[Solved] How to Conduct Radiator Valve Crimping: Replacing Thermostatic Head & Increasing Hot Water Flow

Hello.
I planned to replace the thermostatic head with a different one (at the moment there is Danfoss). By the way, I have read about the possibility of covering the valve (radiator) to increase the flow of hot water. I read that there should be numerical marks and a dot / incision, as a reference point, which were to improve the lacing. However, I do not find something like this on my valve. Can I ask for help in determining whether this valve can be vented and, if so, how?
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greetings

The spell reduces the flow, so I do not know what you want to get.

From what I have understood, this crimp is flow regulation (both decrease and increase). And he wants to achieve an increase in flow to make the radiator warmer. It is mounted in a bathroom that is not adequately heated in the winter, and it may be a matter of just too limited flow (according to the article How to adjust the heaters on the website We Build a House).

The head is well known to me, but the valve itself was not in a complete shape with this head (it looks different than Danfoss). The increase in flow would be such that the value would be higher than before (Danfoss valves were from 0 to 7 and further N, meaning full flow - practically just to flush the valve). Unfortunately, this valve does not really see where the regulation of the orifice is used (typical Danfoss looks different). If there is no numerical designation, it means that this valve can not change the orifice (it looks like a very old one).

I thought so too.
And there is a way to turn the valve completely to disassemble the radiator? I do not have such a red cap from this valve to make it and I wonder if it can be done without it.

lucasville wrote:

I thought so too.
And there is a way to turn the valve completely to disassemble the radiator? I do not have such a red cap from this valve to make it and I wonder if it can be done without it.

Turning the knob (this head) in the lowest temperature setting should completely close the valve (this is always the case with thermostatic valves, except for such heads where temperature can not be set below 16 degrees), because it does not exist in the room below +5 degrees ( if it did happen, for example, open windows in a strong cold, EVERY head will then allow water to the heater - it is a protection against freezing).

Thank you for your response.
In this case, I have a problem (probably with a valve), because screwing the head to a maximum (at 0) does not give anything - unscrewing the radiator for dismantling, just after the valve, makes the water still flies from the valve and radiator connection.

If the heater weakly heats, it can:
- the valve is blocked, and despite the screwing with the thermostatic head does not work properly, then it is best to replace the valve with a new one.
- the installation is contaminated with sediments and the radiator gives up the heat poorly, then it is worth to clean the entire central heating system.
- the radiator is too small for a real heat demand, then it needs to be replaced with a larger one
- possibly the installation is not hydraulically balanced and other heaters "take" water, then the valves with pre-regulation and / or replacement of pipes with appropriate diameters may be helpful.

If you do not have a valve with pre-regulation, it works with a constant flow, in a way MAX, according to the specification of this valve.
Because we do not know exactly what is the valve, we do not know its catalog flows.

Thermostatic valves are not certain for me and I would not treat them as a way to 100% shut off the radiator.
Given your problems and the fact that it is an old valve, I would replace it with a new one with the appropriate pre-regulation.
It is worth having such pre-control on all radiators, then you can make the hydraulic balancing of the installation if necessary.
It also depends on whether it is your individual installation or district heating / co-operative etc., because the greatest room for maneuver is always on your own.

When unscrewing the radiator, you must close the valve at the inlet to the radiator and at the outlet if you have one, then you drain the water from the radiator itself, eg through the breather, and then start turning the radiator for disassembly.
If you only have a thermostatic valve, then you must drain the water from the installation through the return pipe, as the pressure will even out then it will not fly, at most it will trickle down.

lucasville wrote:

Thank you for your response.
In this case, I have a problem (probably with a valve), because screwing the head to a maximum (at 0) does not give anything - unscrewing the radiator for dismantling, just after the valve, makes the water still flies from the valve and radiator connection.

Is there a valve on the return (on the lower branch)? The photo of the radiator is only possible when the valve on the flow and return is closed. If there is no valve on the return, you must close the whole plumb line (with draining water).

The problem was not solved by me. I have reported the matter to the administrator and I am waiting for the replacement of the entire radiator with the valves.