Ozone Removal with OzonMaker by MagnetiMarelli: Air Conditioning On or Off?

Hello,

I have recently purchased an OzonMaker by MagnetiMarelli. After carefully reading the operating instructions, I noticed that it is nowhere written whether the fumigation should be carried out with the air conditioning turned on or off. Hint how do you do it at home ??

I turn it on, but it doesn't make any difference. Ozone with air is supposed to flow through the evaporator and that's it.

Better let the air circulate, then the ozone will go everywhere.

And what does air conditioning have to circulate the air? If you don't have AC on, the air doesn't flow through the evaporator?

Przemo9826 wrote:

And what does air conditioning have to circulate the air?

The fact that if some layman puts an ozonator in the car, when he turns on the air conditioning, the air conditioning will always start the fan inside the car (unless the pre-war version of the air conditioning)

You're wading man .... ;)

And if the airflow is regulated manually with the knob (this is how such cars are produced nowadays), what will happen after pressing the AC button?

Although the air supply is regulated manually, the first fan speed is engaged when the air-conditioning unit is turned on. There is a departure from the switch and the air conditioner closes the contacts. At least in those cars that I met, it was always like that.

You see, and I meet cars with exactly the opposite. You can choke the AC button as much as you want, in some the light will light up, in some it will not, and the air conditioning will start only after turning on the first fan speed. But let's not shy away from the topic, we are talking about rational people, i.e. those who turn on the air during ozonation As I said, I turn on the air conditioning, but I have no rational explanation why I do it, without the air conditioning on, it will be the same for mine.

We carry out ozonation with the air supply turned on and the closed circuit turned on.

Well, I became more interested in the subject and it turns out that I was thinking wrong. It turns out that better results are obtained with the climate switched off, because the evaporator is not frosted and the ozone has an easier task.

It is important that the circuit is closed. Climate should be turned off.

As for the circulation, it is correct, but present some arguments that it should be turned off, that's what this topic is about.

I believe the laws of biology are bowing here - microbes and fungi on a frozen evaporator are less prone to elimination.

And it is, I think, a very strong argument

Thank you gentlemen for your interest. I shared with several cars on the air conditioning off, on the closed circuit and on the air supply and we will see what the effects will be.

Gentlemen,
Whether the air conditioning is on or two different schools are off, it is important that ozone breaks down faster the higher the temperature is, perhaps this is a clue.

Kisses

Maybe something in it because the guy from whom I took the ozonator (the company O3 Polish manufacturer) said that I either do according to the instructions, i.e. on the attached air conditioning with an internal circulation and ozonator outside the car.
Or, if possible, I use the handle to enter the channels and give ozone directly to the evaporator (e.g. I take the cabin from under the glove box and a few cm further I have the evaporator)
This method is suitable now, because if a diesel engine would walk in the workshop for 20 minutes, I would suffocate. Unfortunately, I have not tried it yet because there are no volunteers for ozone treatment

As old as the world.
There is only a small difference, the evaporator is not frosted during operation, but is covered with condensation. If there is frost, it means that the system is not working properly.

Ozone is able to combine with water that is present on the surface of the evaporator. As ozonated water also has strong bactericidal and fungicidal properties, it somewhat interferes with contaminants on the evaporator and removes them. It's hard to say which is more effective ...... I personally use both methods depending on the degree of contamination.

Remember about the appropriate concentration of ozone, i.e. the time of ozonation.
Some people ozone 2x15min but it's no use if you have a poor performance ozonator.
Ozone does not like heat, so the heating in the car is not turned on during ozonation and it does not do it in direct sunlight. The temperature of 20-25 degrees in the car does not bother him.
It is best to install a new cabin filter before ozonation.

grala1 wrote:

It is best to install a new cabin filter before ozonation.

Most of the instructions say so, but the vast majority of vehicles do not pull through the cabin air filter during internal circulation, it ozonates itself, but I have never delved into the effectiveness of this procedure.

I ozone and in a closed circuit and in first gear, the air conditioning is off or not, 30 minutes minimum and I throw out the cabin, whether the customer wants it or not. For a station wagon it gives 40 minutes. Others do 15 - 20 minutes, the customer should be satisfied with me, although some people complain that I broke the cabin as they exchanged it a year ago. Sometimes he shows them pictures. Some are covered with fungus completely.

For me, as a customer says that you do not need to replace the cabin because he changed it last year, he takes it out with him and I ask if you still insist on breathing through the muck for a year in the name of savings PLN 20-60.
Usually there are big eyes and, however, a replacement

My record in ozonation is 6 hours and you still had to use chemicals.

A car from a woman, slightly tidy, to say the least ... after turning on the airflow, after about 10 seconds it blocked the nose and eyes started to water ....... the only such case.

I will join the discussion.
I bought an air conditioning cleaner called klima fresh.
Interestingly, this is not a standard foam but an aerosol, the instruction is like ozone operation, i.e. air conditioning, internal circulation and a fired aerosol. I wonder if there is compressed ozone in the forest. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not write anything about it.

In my case, I also do not intend to start the air conditioning, I have an ordinary manual one, so it is enough to turn on the airflow and set the cold air.

@down
Ozone can be compressed like other gases, although it is possible that we will not find it for sale.

kult5 wrote:

I wonder if there is compressed ozone in the forest.

The usual chemicals are sitting, the aerosol is released and put in the car, the blower had what would fall out of the can on the internal circuit.
There is no such thing as compressed ozone.

at work, we bought an ozone generator for our company - for our own non-profit needs, such a Chinese product, but sold under the name PL of the company: Viaken VOZ-GL-2108 7G - ozone efficiency - 7000 mg / h (7g / h)

http://viaken.pl/pl/generator-ozonu-viaken-voz-gl-2108.html

the main reason for buying an ozonator was an attempt to get rid of the cigarette stench from the car (we bought such a car that after a few days the stench masked by the seller came out and is now teasing)

the generator works, but only on the material, because after washing the upholstery, I did not get rid of the smell of cigarettes or the smell of vanilla (vanilla I tried to cover up the stench) - only ozone neutralized the stench in the upholstery, which soaks up the stink from the cockpit and the wheel closes

from April, I ozonated the car from 7h (in sessions of 1h, and recently even 2h), and because I live in a block of flats and draw electricity from the apartment, I cannot disturb the silence, the engine and the fan in the car were turned off

I recently bought converters and I have already applied about 3.5 hours with the engine / fan running (in 3 sessions 3x30 minutes and 2x1h), unfortunately the stench of cigarettes is still there

is there any chance of getting rid of the cigarette stench using an ozonator, I'm going to ozone after 2 hours - but I noticed that with this concentration, the rubber elements become sticky (maybe there were some organic residues on them - I have no idea)

sorry for a long argument, but I will have to sell the car

If your ozonator (Chinese equipment) really generates 7g / h, the maximum time of ozonation of the car should be 30 minutes. Why? Because the ozone breaks down after 30 minutes. And even so, with such ozone concentration per cubic meter of the car's interior space, it is a lot.

Ozonation 2h, 3,5 as frequent, or as you write 7 hours led to the destruction - oxidation - of rubber, plastic and textile elements. I think the varnish (the "color" of lacquered plastics and varnish) has even been oxidized.

Don't be offended, but using an ozonator in this way is highly irresponsible and starts out with destruction.

In the case of your car, it should be professionally wash the interior, in 90% of establishments that offer car interior washing, it is only superficial refreshment, and then ozone it wisely. Ozone is unable to "eat" dirt, dust, mold, physical contamination.

as for the time of ozonation, I wrote about a total time of 7 hours - not in one session, only in several within a few months

I ozonised max within 2 hours and unfortunately it did not do anything, it still smells like pipes, and there were 3 times such 2h sessions with the engine on

Yesterday I ozone my car, also 2 hours in a row on the engine and air conditioning - it was about fumigation of the air conditioning, unfortunately also in the case of the air conditioning, it stinks with a rag without the effect (with this car I was also in the professor's service, they had equipment with a capacity of 12g / h and 40 minutes of the procedure also had no effect)

also i have very negative experiences with ozone

ps. apparently ozone only works on living organisms, so it shouldn't do any harm to the upholstery

Ozone will oxidize the upholstery.
If you have a mushroom on the evaporator, ozonation will not do anything.
The fungus will soak up water and it will stink again.
It must be manually cleaned.

for me ozonation is enough 2 times a year. it gives really great results, the layout is clean and much more efficient.