Radiator Pre-Adjustment Valve: Understanding Flow Settings (1 to 8) in a Block of Flats

Hello everyone.

The heating season has begun, and the question is. Well, I took off the thermostatic head at home, I wanted to check how the pre-valve is set and here I have such a pre-adjustment valve.
Please tell me if this valve also has the same rule that the number 8 is the maximum flow and 1 is the minimum, because I turn this valve so that from 1 to about 4 you can hear the flow (water noise) and above 4 to 8 a quiet radiator.

I will immediately add that I live in a block of flats and all valves are initially set to 4, regardless of whether they are closer to the counter on the staircase or further away, should it be like that?

Maybe try switching to the first noise-free setting. Then set the temperature expected on the head experimentally. The noise will most often appear when the temperature set on the head is approaching. Probably because the clearance before the valve is closed by the head decreases.

but please tell me if 8 is the maximum open orifice (max flow) and 1 is the minimum? because I have already heard different opinions on this subject, unfortunately, after the valve, I do not know who its manufacturer is (Therm X2 colorifer, probably the manufacturer is Kermi)

the first is something around 5 for me (the noise below) - of course, with the thermostatic head removed.
for me, the noise appears and is loud when I turn on the radiator when it's cold in the house, e.g. after a night or intensive airing, and it stops (it calms down slowly) when it reaches the temperature set on the thermostatic head

and I will only add that this radiator is the final one in the apartment, if I unscrew the previous one, the latter almost does not hum at all

Yes. The higher the number, the greater the flow.

and thanks for the answer because I didn't know if these numbers, along with the increase, unclog the flow or close it.
And maybe you know what thermostatic heads are worth paying attention to, buying, etc. (we are talking about mechanical, not electronic). Because I've been walking around Leroy, Castorama recently and there's some crap there.

Portal wrote:

I no longer knew whether these numbers, along with the increase, unclog the flow or close it

the principle is that you turn to the left and the flow increases. If you turn right and you get to 8, it will shrink or even close

I think you've got something wrong.
To the left bigger, to the right you close it OK, but
The lower the number, the lower the flow.
The higher the number, the greater the flow.

FOSGEN1 wrote:

The higher the number, the greater the flow

You think I'm wrong?
Unfortunately, in a large part of these valves there is no limiter, and you can make more than one full turn, so by limiting (turning to the right) we can make the number 8 visible again, and there will be practically no flow.

in my case, from the photo from the first post, the ring with numbers is spinning in a circle, you can turn it several times in each direction, - does it mean that no matter how many times I turn it, it will always be max at 8 and at 1 min. flow ?

Portal I don't think that's the case. I have a slightly different valve and when I turn it one way or the other, you can see that it is screwed in or out. I hope you didn't move it too far from the position it was when you removed the head. Simply, if you are humming on 4, move it to a position where it stops humming. And check if the head controls the valve.



The element I marked with the red arrow does not move when you change the setting. The one marked with yellow yes. Remove the head from another for a while; should be set the same to each other. Probably plus and minus will be in the same plane. Just don't let it carry you away with twisting, because it will be a rainy Saturday

I didn't turn it so much, 3 times to one side, 3 times to the other side and I set it as it was at the beginning (i.e. when I turned it 3 times to the left, then I did the same to the right), but somehow I didn't see that the blue plastic on which they are those numbers and which is spinning, twisted out of the valve, i.e. began to stick out more, etc.
only instead of 4 I set it to 5.5.

Perhaps your valve is different than mine and this movement is not very visible. If you set it as it was with a slight plus and it calmed down, it means that you did well and gained another fitness in life.

Regards

well thanks to your help :)

Regards

EDIT
and a little info from the manufacturer
Kermi uses the following colors for its valves:
http://www.kermi.pl/Polnisch/Heiztechnik/Waer..._Flachheizkoerper/Zubehoer/x-part/index.phtml

and according to this pdf the blue valve should have a preset of 7.5? Do I think right ? (second page of the pdf, table)
http://www.kermi.pl/Polnisch/Pliki_do_pobrani...za/Informacje_tech/Ventilratgeber/index.phtml

In general, you shouldn't change the settings because I used to go there with the boys and we made the settings according to the design made by the designer (for the entire block or a group of blocks) and he is smarter than you and me (and the further the settings are from the node, the greater) In the end, you will pay more for heating or the "neck" will come from above and you will get hot .... because you took away his warmth.

what did you do, where did you go? :)

and why will you pay more for heating, if you set it according to the recommendations of the radiator manufacturer, i.e. the factory setting for a given radiator? unless the manufacturer knows how much liquid should pass through the radiator at a given moment in order to use the given radiator.

Because the increased flow on the radiators will also increase the flow on the heat meter. The temperature difference on the heat meter sensors will also change (more heat supplied), so you will pay more. The manufacturer uses cringing so that I can set the same amount of heat for everyone and you set it your way. Do not be guided by the fact that the radiators in your apartment are set to 4, better go 2 floors up or down and then you will see how much your neighbor has set. The main orifice for the premises should be set in the duct with a hydrocontrol type valve, if you have noise in the radiators, you should turn this valve to reduce the flow, although it should also be set and protected against unauthorized adjustment

but I have more heat, it will heat the room faster and the thermostatic head will cut off the flow - is it not? because if the flow is too low, the radiator may have too weak a flow for its power and may poorly give off heat to the environment, or not?

as for hydrocontrol valves, they are but for a given riser in the basement, from the riser pipe to the apartments on the staircase, there are usually ball valves

http://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Licznik_ciep%C5%82a Count - you can find the flow and temperature by pressing the button on the heat meter.


A little more to read http://www.instsani.webd.pl/projco14.htm

then what will pull more thermal energy on the meter:

a) a radiator that has a high flow set (reaches its power for which it was created) will heat the room faster and the thermostatic head will turn off the flow after reaching a certain temperature

b) a radiator with a small flow (it will not be able to achieve its power), poorly emits heat, works all the time and tries to heat the room, the head will cut off the supply only after a long time, when it reaches a certain temperature

the second issue is I'm surprised that all these radiators have the same number set, even though they are different and are powered from one source in turn, first the bathroom, then two rooms with small radiators, then the kitchen with a larger one and finally the living room with a very large and theses 4? now, when I changed the big one to 5.5, it seems to me that it is warmer, I can feel more heating energy from it and it heats up faster, which makes it turn off faster.


EDIT

I read and according to this page:
In general, the purpose of pre-regulation is to distribute the refrigerant "fairly". Whereas "fair" here means: "to each (radiator) according to his needs". i.e. a larger radiator, which is designed to deliver more heat, should receive a larger flow than a smaller radiator.
.....Less dangerous is too much flow, which can be throttled by the radiator valve. However, if the stream is too small, the heater's power drops, and the radiator valve, even when fully open, cannot "help" anything. Generally, the installation is not pre-adjusted, even if it works in a manner acceptable to the user, but it usually means a worse quality of heat supply (the power of the radiators is not adapted to the temporary heating needs) and may lead to an unnecessary increase in heating costs

and this means that it cannot be that all the big and small radiators have the same pre-setting because the bigger one must have a bigger flow. In my case, the big one is probably 3 bigger than the two that are in the rooms earlier. It is probably logical that a small radiator in a small 8 m2 room has the same flow as a large one, almost 3 times larger in a 30 m2 living room. As for the earlier radiators (bathroom, rooms) I have no objections to their setting, but I have doubts about the large one in the living room.

Theoretically, with the larger radiator you are right, however, the question arises whether it is not oversized or if this small radiator is not further from the vertical and therefore has a greater flow (resistance on the wires, losses in pipe insulation, location, e.g. on the north wall)

it's from the vertical, that's how the pipes run in the floor and that's how they supply the radiators in turn - bathroom, then one room (small radiator), then another room (small radiator), kitchen (slightly larger radiator), living room (large radiator). This large radiator is furthest from the vertical
If it was oversized, it would probably be a smaller developer than a large one that costs more.

since the manufacturer assumes such a pre-setting for a given radiator, so that it reaches its parameters, then setting half of it rather causes that the radiator does not give as much heat as it should and does not fulfill its purpose. I'm wondering if it was accidentally set wrong - instead of these 7.5, 4 was given

I'm going to hijack this thread with my problem.
Two years ago I had a problem with an old Danfos valve with a thermostatic head. Well, it did not close completely and the radiator was heating even when it was completely cut off (set asterisk on the valve). Called plumbers replaced the valve and head with a new one. Two winters were OK.
This year the problem reappeared. Last week, the plumbers came and said that the thermostatic head was broken and that I should buy a new one, "because the head is the tenant's responsibility". Before I bought it, I swapped it from another room. Well, it turned out that the head is OK, but rather the valve is damaged. Plumbers came back today and replaced the valve and head. And what? And it didn't help, the radiator continues to heat at maximum turning. Ba, now I have a head that theoretically should close the valve for good (in addition to the * position, there is also 0). And it doesn't close. The initial setting is set to "1", because with the factory "N" the radiator was almost red from the heat.
Any ideas? Is the new valve damaged too? I don't want to believe it.
I will add that this radiator is on one riser together with the radiator in the kitchen, which is completely turned off and is cold.