Dealing with Overheating Radiator: Adjust Danfoss Radiator Head Settings in Apartment (1-7, N)

Hello, I'm new to this forum, sorry if I added the topic in the wrong place.
I have blockades for radiators in my apartment in position 2, which is around 16 degrees. My apartment is in the middle of the building and it is well insulated, all the radiators are in position 2 and they are cold. One in the large room is also in position 2, but still heats up a lot, I checked the temperature in the room and it is as much as 25 degrees, which is much too much for me and I'm afraid that I will pay a lot for heating, another identical radiator in the same room it is also cold. I have no idea how to set the heater to stop heating. The photo shows a Danfoss radiator head, after downloading, you can see a yellow ring with numbers from 1 to 7 and the letter N.
Thank you very much for help since all the others are cold

At the beginning, you can swap the valves and you will find out whether the valve or the regulator / danfos /.

The valve is one thing and the thermostatic head is the other, maybe you have the wrong head and there is no contact with the stem in the valve. If you set the head to 1 or snowflake, does the radiator still heat up?

Hello, my house is only from 2 up, there is no snowflake or 1. All other heaters in the house are just for 2 (i.e. as little as possible) and are cold, and this one is also for 2 and heats up strongly.

Added after 26 [minutes]:

I swapped the valves, took the one from the radiator that was cold and put it on the one with which I had a problem, and it's still hot. It didn't help. I noticed that on this radiator, which was cold, and I took the valve from it, it started to heat up a lot.

Added after 18 [minutes]:

I noticed that the radiators that are cold do not make any sounds, and the one that is warm all the time hisses slightly around the valve, when I push this metal pin into the center of the head, then it stops

As you press the plunger to close the flow, measure whether the spindles are equal in both radiators, whether they have the same stroke and overall visually, whether the valves are the same.

Screw in the thermostatic head from this radiator, which heats up all the time, to another, maybe the head is to blame.

Compare in both heads whether the distance to the disc that acts on the spindle is the same. It is best to take measurements with a caliper.

You can put something under the mandrel and tighten the heads, e.g. 5 groszy.
The second option is to close / cover the valves on the radiator connection, at the bottom.

Thanks for your help, it looks like something is wrong with the head. If I turn off the water supply to this radiator, will it stop filling me with heat consumption on the meter?

totenkopf1 wrote:

Thanks for your help, it looks like something is wrong with the head. If I turn off the water supply to this radiator, will it stop filling me with heat consumption on the meter?

If the temperature in the room is above 10 °, the meter must show some consumption - of course also very small. Regardless of whether the radiator will be warm or cold.

Yes, I understand that such miracles that the meter did not indicate anything and it was warm, there is no I just want to turn off the water supply to this heater because if it's 25 degrees in the room, it surely eats up a lot of energy

totenkopf1 wrote:

Yes, I understand that such miracles that the meter did not indicate anything and it was warm, there is no I just want to turn off the water supply to this heater because if it's 25 degrees in the room, it surely eats up a lot of energy

Does water come out of it when you turn off the tap over the sink?
If you close the water supply to the radiator, it will stop heating. Easy?
There are plastic knobs that you can screw instead of the head onto the valve thread, when you tighten it all the way, it will stop heating, and if it does not stop, the damaged valve, not the head.

On the valve you have numbers from 1-7 and a marker. Set so that the marker on the valve points to 1, you will limit the flow to minium.

Theoretically, radiators of this type should also have shut-off valves at the bottom, line "I" water flows to the radiator, line "-" water does not flow.

The head is not a CLICK by chance? You are sure that it is well positioned, to attach it, you have to twist that white ring, then such teeth will pop out.

I do not know what it looks like at the moment, but when I bought thermostatic valves some years ago (probably Danfoss), the complete with the valve was a red plastic "cap" screwed on instead of the head. It was possible to close the valve manually (tightening it caused the valve to close). To work with the thermostatic head, this "cap" (or whatever it is professionally called) had to be unscrewed and in its place, the head was screwed on. See if you did not get these caps together with the valves - if so, try to put it on and screw it up completely. If the radiator stops heating it means that the thermostatic head is damaged, and if it continues to heat - the valve is damaged.

Thanks to everyone, I did it, I turned off the heater and it doesn't heat up anymore.

Only this is a half-way solution, did you turn off the valve on the return?
Have you found the reason why the head does not regulate the flow?