Bosch GSR 18-2LI Screwdriver: Drill Chuck Movement and Alignment Issues

Hello. I recently bought a Bosch GSR 18-2LI screwdriver. The problem is that the drill chuck does not move in one axis, the drill can be seen from the drill bit about 3 mm to the sides and not in one axis. I was with it in the service, I was told that it was normal and it was within the normal range, but I wished to replace the defective parts. After replacing, nothing has changed and the screwdriver still does not work in one axis. Could someone with more experience tell me something about it? this is my first screwdriver. And when choosing this brand, I require the device to work perfectly. Is it a natural phenomenon?

How is it possible for the runout to be 3mm? In my noname screwdriver, even 1mm drill bits are perfectly centric. Bosch probably gave the bodies here and the website is darkening it, that it should be like that.

This is not visible with short bits. Only when inserting something longer drill you can see that the drill does not move in one axis, but flies sideways by about 3 mm. with a blade drill for wood it is already very visible. I have had the gears and the handle replaced and it's still the same. I don't know if this is acceptable or not? I personally get nervous about this fact because I could buy a screwdriver from another company and have everything as it should be and I left BOSCH, so I require a perfect job. Should it be like that or take them the cordless screwdriver and let them do it until they do?

Make sure it is not a crooked drill insertion. What length is it 3mm sideways? Do you count the 3mm between extreme excursions, or does it deviate from the central position by that much?

It's about deviating from the central position,
when I put on a thick drill, it walks straight, there is a minimal deviation with thinner drills, you can already see this deviation.

And did you check that the handle is crooked, not the drill? Thinner ones are easier to curve ...

Christophorus wrote:

If the drill chuck has a runout that is transferred to the drill bit, the drilled hole may be larger in diameter than the drill bit diameter. The shape of the opening may also differ from the round one. Check that the drill bits are not crooked and that they are not hitting, and not the drill chuck.

There may also be a damaged chuck that "catches" only in two jaws, not three, or you position the drill incorrectly (not centrally).

non e vero italiano wrote:

Understand, there will always be two jaws pushing the cylinder towards the third jaw.

Exactly. Do you have a beating drill? You have. The 3 jaw can just stick badly. It's worth checking it out.
A few times, however, I just wrongly mount the drill in the holder and tighten it like that.

non e vero italiano wrote:

Because he makes such a drama as if the beating would cause that after drilling 10 holes, when you go to pee, his hands are moving so much that he will cum twice.

Or a drill from the PRC and it just bends ...

I do not penetrate the model, but I will ask like this:
If you screw in the drill and tighten the handle, do you: Holding it in your hand and holding the handle, you feel the handle slack in relation to the housing?
Cheaper models of screwdrivers have an embedded drive, i.e. a motor, gears, a clutch and a handle as a whole module in a plastic housing, and it is held on the splines of the gear housing. It is not rigidly fixed and there is a mini-play between the body (housing) and the drive.
In more expensive models, the drive is additionally screwed to the housing from the outside, there is a "flange" tightened with 4 screws. There is a ring for the clutch pressure and it all stays firmly in place, the only play is slight bearing play, but not as summer spindle as in the first case is more stable. Only when the screwdriver has an impact, the play is a bit bigger, but that's because the impact must be transferred to the spindle.

The only thing you can check is put on a straight drill bit and turn it on slowly and watch it bend at the end. And gradually turn on higher revolutions.
There must be a little slack, but 3mm in the beating is nothing.
When you twist the handle empty, the jaws come together nicely?
When I have a moment, out of pure curiosity, I will look at my (other models) slack, although I never bothered about it because there must be some and that's it.

The author did not write - although I asked him about it - at what length of the drill he has the beat he had given. Maybe he puts on a half-meter drill and if it's thin, it just bends? If the reason was a skewed axis (spindle, chuck, whatever), then the runout should be and with a thick drill. Another possible explanation is that some rubbish got inside the handle and just when there is a thinner drill, they cause an asymmetry in the position of the jaws - it would be advisable to carefully check if there is asymmetry, and if so, what causes it.

I'm not an idiot. In addition, I think very thin drills with a length of half a meter are rare. Such a runout can be seen when assuming a blade drill with a width of 20mm and a length not exceeding 100mm, I think

And did you check if the drill chuck is crooked or the drill bit? How do you tell it apart?

this is a very strange occurrence because when using a thick drill, e.g. 10, you cannot see this curvature or beating. and with something narrower you can already see the beating, I don't know if it's not the reason, maybe one of the 3 pins that clamp in the handle is a bit longer

Insert a photo of this handle with a drill bit attached that has a runout, because the fairies aren't here, and the reasons for the beating may be mass.

Or maybe a filing has fallen into the chuck and it blocks one of the jaws so that it does not slide out all the way?

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Hello, similar problem, I bought a DIY screwdriver, fell on Yato I think unfortunately and such an unpleasant surprise to start with. Do you guys think to send it back or are they like that?

waldes112 wrote:

do they have it that way?

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So what ?

>>21294690 well as you can see in the video how the handle , "wobbles". Has anyone had dealings with this company, is there any point in replacing or do they make everything of such poor quality?

If there is nothing in the handle, does it also swing?

Also, I can't see from this video whether it's the chuck that's wobbling or the whole drill - fix it.

Yes, if there's nothing in the mount, you have to look at it on the video too, and in person you don't have to mount anything, you can see with the naked eye how it swings....

It could be an illusion of vision - there are times. Check so as to eliminate illusions and the possibility of crooked drill insertion.

Rather than foam another page maybe it is time to check if the spindle shaft is bent or if the housing body is knocked out and we have dynamic runout due to backlash? There is NO other option.

The same thing happened to me today: sideways beating of the drill chuck without drill bit and after dismantling the cause: there is no bearing or at least no garland for the sharps on the outer circumference of the bearing balls is plastic, so there is already a gap and slack for the insertion of another ball, and in addition, the seger ring could not withstand such a plastic formation on the circumference of the balls as can be seen in the photo below and has already broken off a piece of it on the right side and it has become impossible to do as the author of the topic describes in the first post, i.e. the "beating" has reached about 3 mm sideways at the very end of the drill chuck. By the way, the washer over the sharps has already bent so much (to be replaced) that it would break in a moment and the sharps would fly out completely? The damaged binder ring had already gouged a second groove in the wrong place, as can be seen in the second photo. The "fur" should have been unscrewed from the front much earlier and all this should have been corrected.... I'm not complaining about the manufacturers because it's not allowed, but the device according to the EU guidelines is supposed to break down within 3-4 years because there is no repair directive yet and no production of spare parts.... As much as one asks, the use here of a third, decent bearing in this type of power tools.I leave the conclusions to each of you to think about.... And above all, how many years it must have taken for someone to give you the cause and dispel your doubts and quibbles and blaming it on drills or other components. In general, I guess I am stupid and mistaken because others are making money from this and I am giving a solution to the problem pro publico bono for free.... This forum should be for professionals like a doctor's forum, not for those who are afraid or don't know for 10 years how to use a screwdriver and an Allen.... I doubt if there was a garland of bearing balls as I am a first time user and have not lent this screwdriver to anyone.... Well, and there wasn't an ounce of grease in there. Of course, as usual, I leave myself open to the possibility that the drill chuck itself can also generate lateral "run-out" as can the aforementioned bits....
Proof: .
How to remove the drill holder can be found here: Link .